Rebalance/infill -When to stop filing?

[-sophisticutz-]

Hi all.

I have ventured over from the hair forum, treat me gently

I trained in nails and beauty, many moons ago, but have never worked in that field, just hair.

Due to having my own salon, I thought it would be a good idea to retrain in some aspects and to really expand my skills repertoire.

So, I have retrained in manicure and I have just completed and acrylic nail course.

I have yet to do humans(!), as I want to make sure I am doing it correctly. My salon has a good reputation for nails and I do not want to give a sub-standard service. I have been practicing on my nail trainer arm and have now progressed onto my own hands.

I am mainly sculpting, although I am also giving tips a bash, and feel ready now to put a full set on another human.

After all this long windedness, the question I would like to ask is about rebalance/infills.

I am struggling to know how much I should file. Please bear in mind I have only being doing my own nails! I have been using a UV gel top coat, so I first file this off, file down the length of the nail and back bevel so it is not thick on the free edge (please forgive me if I am using the wrong terminology!).

The problem I have is filing off any lifting or where I need to infill. I am very concious of over filing and damaging the natural nail but I don't think I am filing enough. It looks ok but once I infill the bottom to the cuticle, file and buff, I seem to have a shadow underneath the newly applied acrylic of where the old acrylic was.

How do I blend that old line away beforehand without filing on the natural nail? I am using a 150/150 file.

I hope I have made some sort of sense! I would like to get this right before I do this on a human!

Thanks.

 

[*sarah*]

When you have any lifting you dont want to be chasing the line which is what I suspect you are doing, I did this too until I read a tutorial on here I'm sure it was by Gigi, if you do a search you should find it.

When you are trying to file any lifting, you want to file just before the lifting so when it comes away there will be no line as you are not chasing the lifting line (hope this makes sense!)
I was taught to use a 240 grit to start of with, this A made me apply better no one wants to be filing for ages! lol and B when you are learning to file you wont cause as much damage with a 240 if you do make a mistake! lol

Also when you are doing an infill/rebalance go down your grits as you get closer to the natural nail, I usually go 100,180, 180 sponge board, 240 sponge board. hth xx

 

[-sophisticutz-]

Hi, thanks for your reply.

yes, that makes sense. I am filing before the lifting but maybe not enough. I think I am overly cautious of 'hitting' the natural nail, as it has happened to me in the past. I will have a search for the tutorial and I will also try with different files.

I'll keep practicing. Cheers.

 

[katiebbaby]

Hi donna as sarah said just ensure you de bulk with a 100/180 then swap when needed. I always thin out your fee edge to expose a small margin of natural nail straighten sidewalls adjust length, examine nail, ie chips pocket lifting etc if need be.

Keep them thin to win to begin with it will make yor life easier when doing maintenance. (not too thin) x

 

[geeg]

http://www.salongeek.com/nail-finishing-maintenance/8573-file-control-part-4-during-rebalance.html

Here is the tutorial I wrote and which is part of my book 'nailclass' by gigi Rouse.
available from Sweet Squared 08452106060

If you follow it it will change your rebalancing life!! lol

 

[-sophisticutz-]

Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate your input.

 

[-sophisticutz-]

It makes perfect sense now I have read the tutorial. I also think, as I am new to this, I am guilty of applying too much product. So it ends up too thick near the cuticle, so lots of filing, then lifting.

I think it is partly due to my original application and then filing too far down on the rebalance. I think once I have cracked getting the first set on neater then I will find the rebalance easier. Less filing would be great!

 

[geeg]

It makes perfect sense now I have read the tutorial. I also think, as I am new to this, I am guilty of applying too much product. So it ends up too thick near the cuticle, so lots of filing, then lifting.

I think it is partly due to my original application and then filing too far down on the rebalance. I think once I have cracked getting the first set on neater then I will find the rebalance easier. Less filing would be great!

There's your goal then. Sculpt the perfect nail with your brush and not your file and your troubles will be over.