Rusk Colours

[Edenic]

Hi all,

I've been out of the business for a while but have kept up to date with everything...except colouring! So I've been doing friends hair to get back into it.
Last week I decided to try out Rusk colours as I'd heard good things about them but I wasn't really happy with the lift so wondered if anyone could tell me if I did something wrong!
Doing foil highlights on a base of about 6 with existing bleach highlights I used SL00N and SL13B with 12% to try and get a more natural colour than the bleach that was already there, but the colour still came out a bit brassy. I was also surprised that the mix ratio said 1:3 for SL as this seemed a lot of peroxide!
Now i've had a text to say that the colour has faded (?!) and can I have a look at it.

Any idea's as to what went wrong greatfully received!


x x

 

[scottydolly]

did u use the 12% on the bleachy ends too? it bound to fade off the ends quickly with 12%. . x

 

[Edenic]

haha! I may be a bit rusty but I do know that much! :lol:

No, just used it on the roots and it's on the roots where she say's it has faded, not the ends. I've still not seen it yet but I'm wondering if her natural colour could have bled back in a bit??

Any ideas on why it didn't lift enough?

x x

 

[blutopaz]

i dont quite understand how virgin roots used with highlift and 12% can fade??? its not something iv ever come across or heard...not when its the roots....im confused lol

 

[alan27]

sorry if this sounds stupid!

but maybe she means it's just less brassy?

 

[Edenic]

I know I know...I'm confused too that's why I thought I'd ask on here! I'm seeing her tomorrow so will have a better idea what she means then.

I'm just as confused why a high lift with 12% didn't lift to a nice clean blonde!

I hope she does mean it's less brassy, but surely that would be a good thing?!

x x

 

[blutopaz]

thats exactly what i thought!!

as far as im concerned a high lift and 12% shouldnt even be an issue for lifting on a base of a 6, uv got at least 4 shades lift with 12% which would take u up to a base of 10 anyway which would be at the very lease enough for a nice light blonde

as for the brassiness has she got lots of red undertones? i use rusk but only use the
SL00N on one client, as she was having 12.1 in another brand, im very wary of highlifts from an experience before so tend to just use bleach or super meche, but as she already had similar i went for that, but i dont like to use ash, im scared of it lol!

and how long did u leave it on for? i leave the SL00N on for the full whack at the very minimum which i think is 50 mins

SL13 that ash beige isnt it? is there any other ash ones in rusk? my shade chart is at work.....my thoughts are along the line of the ash beige not being enough to neutralize the red tones? maybe have a purer ash?

they also do a triple action clear, that adds to the colour for an extra 1/2 or full shade lighter, will have to check if its still applicable to the super lightners but i got a feeling it is... might be worth a go, if it indeed is the actual problem and not that its the brasiness that has faded - which i have to say i wouldn't be complaining about lol

 

[liana kay]

you did just do hi lift no tint as well? i cant see how it would fade as lift cant just disapear( unless shes a heavy smoker of course ) maybe shes just seen it in a different light

 

[Edenic]

s'funny, I try to avoid using bleach with foil since I had a bad experience with it expanding and seeping out of the foil...it was many years ago and very messy! :o

Anyhow, back to the present...yes I did just use the high lift, no tint and she doesn't smoke at all!
I left it on for 50 minutes, added a bit of heat when it was looking a bit slow lifting. I couldn't see any red at all in her natural colour, although to be honest there wasn't a lot of natural left apart from the roots, it's mainly just bleach!
The SL13 is just a beige blonde, I don't think there's any ash in it. That just lifted to a slightly brassier colour than the SL00N.
I think I'm just going to scatter a few bleach foils in to the roots around the crown and parting. It may just be that she doesn't like the more natural look of the colours if the brassiness has calmed down as she is so used to the bleach.
I'll update you tomorrow when I've seen it and hopefully solve the mystery of the "fading"!

Thanks all for your help, at least now I feel as if I did everything right! :hug:

x x

 

[blutopaz]

how white is her bleach? becoz if its been in sun or just really processed obviously its lifted even more then the highlift can, what about adding some ash in next time to neutralize? im good at advising to use it i just dont like to do it myself lol!!

or the triple action clear, like i say it might give u the nudge to get the clean colour?

let us know what happens tomorrow

 

[scottydolly]

the fact she has bleach on her ends and midlengths and a lesser blonde highlift on the roots will make her feel it has faded perhaps, unless the bleach ends have been toned down. is it perhaps that she just sees the ends are really bright blonde and the roots look darker in comparisn. . usually if a client comes into the salon and wants to get rid of the bleach you would have to colour the ends to blend in with the new shade being used on the roots? sorry that was mabye obvious and already thought off and dealt with, jus another idea. . x