Searching for the perfect flat light brown

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Fllipjango

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Hi all, I've got a client who's colour is driving me mad. To the eye it looks like a very flat, very light natural brown. She says when she goes in the sun her hair blondes a little. There is no red in the tone at all but it isn't particularly ash looking either. On appearance you'd say she's a brunette, but when looking at the tone against the charts, its around a 7 tone ( possibly a 7.1 or a 7.9 which I know is really considered blonde and is an ash tone, but the overall appearance isn't ash). She has a bit of grey which she wants to cover as naturally as possible without any change in her natural tone. But no matter what tint I use, it always goes copper/warm. She's starting to get a bit annoyed now and has expressed how much she hates any warmth in her hair tone (and its getting me down as I've been cutting her hair for years but have only just started colouring it, and don't want to lose a good client). Could anyone recommend a product/combination that would be worth trying in order to achieve the right tone? I'm not tied to one brand as I'm a mobile hairdresser so could buy anything from the wholesaler. Thanks :wink2:
 

Bluerinse

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What's her natural and what is she wanting to be? What colour are you currently using and also developer strength?
 

Fllipjango

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Her natural is around a 7.1 or 7.9, and she wants an exact match and for it not to look dyed at all. I used Loreal Majirel, first time tried 7 which was really too warm, then 7.1 which still seems warm, with 75ml of 20% volume.
 

Bluerinse

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Her natural is around a 7.1 or 7.9, and she wants an exact match and for it not to look dyed at all. I used Loreal Majirel, first time tried 7 which was really too warm, then 7.1 which still seems warm, with 75ml of 20% volume.
And their is your problem, your staying the same depth but using 20vol so it's gonna lift it slightly, my advice would be get 7n matrix socolor use 10vol and leave for 45min or use colour sync if only has a tiny amount of grey,

but go for 8n as it comes out one shade darker, but get it on and quick, after the recommended 20 mins development time it goes one shade darker for every 10mins after this.
 

mephill

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it is most likely the developer and exposing the under lying pigment in her hair. I would give using a demi ago. Deposit only and no lifting of the undertone. We use Keune semi equal parts and get 100% coverage. There are a few ash tones at a level 7 in the range. 7.2 springs to mind the rest I can't remember. The is an 8.19 which would be good to give tone but no depth to the previously coloured hair. Good luck but give the chart a look.
 

Fllipjango

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Thanks guys, looks like I need to go less permanent. Wasn't thinking about Demi's as not had good experience with full coverage of resistant grey before using them. Unfortunately I don't think we have Keune in the UK - I'm limited to Loreal, Goldwell, Clairol, Schwartkopf, and Wella I think.
 

Bluerinse

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Thanks guys, looks like I need to go less permanent. Wasn't thinking about Demi's as not had good experience with full coverage of resistant grey before using them. Unfortunately I don't think we have Keune in the UK - I'm limited to Loreal, Goldwell, Clairol, Schwartkopf, and Wella I think.
Keune is in the uk I used to stock it, ok then use 7n in gold well colorance.
 

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