The sprinkle of bleach trick

[skylight]

Hi, I'm a newbie in my first job still learning about colour, I have a client whose roots are turning orange with Wella 12/1, not sure it's a problem with the tone, i think it's just not lifting enough. If we leave it on for an extra ten or fifteen mins then it ends up a really nice colour, but the trouble with that is it's starting to get in really bad condition since we extended the development time. We need it to lift quicker, but the client doesn't want to go all the way over to bleach. A friend from my course said you can add a sprinkle of bleach to high lift to get an extra oomph. Would this be a good idea? I think if it lifts quicker then the condition will not be affected so badly but am i mad to add bleach when i'm trying to improve the condition? What effect has this had for those of you who've tried it? We use 12% straight on scalp, if we add bleach to 12% is that ok? She is a warm level 7. Thanks! x

 

[hairstudent]

One of my old college tutors always used to get us to add a sprinkle of bleach to lift that little bit more, however you need to be careful it doesn't lift out the tone you are trying to deposit so make sure it is literally a sprinkle

 

[Bluerinse]

Use 12/11 with 12/16 no bleach x

 

[Bluerinse]

You need to also leave for full 50 mins development, helps if salon is warm too but 12/1 won't tone it enough x

 

[skylight]

Thanks both. 50 mins just isn't doing it that's the problem, after that long there's still a copper band that is noticeably darker than the ends. It takes over an hour, with heat on for a lot of that time x

 

[JoJo1980]

Its not reccommended to add bleach to high lift as it can unstablise it and blow out the tone. If youre just not getting the lift, whydont you switch to bleach with 3% then tone? Will actually end up being much kinder to the hair.
A lot of people are scared of bleach still, I think its the word "bleach" but its not like youre using Domestos on their hair. I always use the words "pre lightener" instead of bleach so as not to freak the clients out.
Try it, if you dont like it you can struggle on for hours with the 12/1 and 12% but its worth a go

 

[Bluerinse]

Highlift and heat isn't good either, especially for first 15 mins of development x

 

[skylight]

We've tried minimising the heat, but then it really doesn't seem to develop at all. The hair is just really resistant to lightening, i've had other clients with darker hair who have responded much better. One of the others tried to talk her into bleach but she's had it done badly before and said she got a really harsh unnatural look. Because the 12/1 gives her a nice colour (eventually!) she really wants that look. I guess we could try the 12/11 but i just keep coming back to the fact that it's not just the tone, it's just not lightened enough. She does use L'oreal shampoo which i'm pretty sure might be coating the hair, maybe that's the problem. We did sell her some Wella shampoo this time and told her to give up the L'oreal and she said she would x

 

[Bluerinse]

Maybe put 12/11 with 40vol on then 15 mins b4 development time add more pure tint no peroxide, but tone does make it look darker if it isn't right x

 

[JoJo1980]

If a highlift isnt lifting enough, it wont start magically lifting! Youre using highlighft, with 12% ,with heat, for extra time. Its a wonder she has hair left tbh, youve been lucky. ditch it, and tell her to trust your proffessional opinion and use bleach.

 

[skylight]

Yes she's got really strong hair but last time it was finally starting to give up and do the chewing gum thing. Started panicking about what it would be like next time and knew i needed some help

 

[Prettyflamingo]

To be honest I have found that alot of the wella range has changed from when I first qualified , i know they have had an image/range overhaul , however I am finding that colours that I have used years ago , no longer have the oomph or give the coverage that they used to , I'm having to adjust trusted recipes etc to achieve the same result , maybe the formulation/ chemistry has changed ? X

 

[skylight]

That's interesting, my boss was saying the same thing the other day. She has always used high lift on her hair and it was quite platinum but now it's getting gradually a lot golder. She has always had high confidence in Wella colours but I think she's having doubts now x

 

[Prettyflamingo]

Yes , I feel exactly the same , I also feel that in some instances the tone is slightly more prominent than previously , for instance , 9/16 , although violet is the secondary tone , I find it to be quite bold within the colour , strange !!! Tbh I can't condone adding Pre-lightener to a highlift tint as essentially what you are creating is a prelightener with 12% , however I understand that sometimes every alternative option just does not work , you could perhaps give an overall lighter effect by breaking up the tint with prelightener highlights with 1.9 or 4% , I find this less intimidating for clients but quite effective

 

[JosephJunior_]

If its Loreal Professional shampoo then she will have nothing coating the hair!

 

[persianista]

The sprinkle of bleach trick works fine, alternatively try the Redken extra lift high lift tints, as these give 5 and a half levels of lift.

 

[skylight]

Thanks everyone for your advice We tried again with some 12/16 added in as a last resort. Roots are glowing away worse than ever. So we either have to give the sprinkle of bleach thing a try or go the whole hog with a bleach and tone. If i do the latter i'll have to get it right as she is resistant to the idea so she'll be annoyed if it doesn't turn out right.
So my questions are - if you do do the sprinkle of bleach thing (know everybody has different opinions on this) how much difference will it make, is it enough to just kick out that glow? It's not terrible, but definitely slightly too warm.
Alternatively, what bleach / toners would you recommend to get a creamy blonde. She wants it light but definitely not white. I have more experience with trying to get the white tone and don't want it to go wrong again :o

 

[skylight]

Ps probably said this before but we are a Wella Salon X