babychops
Well-Known Member
I worked in a salon that would use bleach and 12% all the time. They never listened to me about going lower and slower. Never mind, if I give my clients a nicer, cleaner blonde they will come back to me, not them x
Theory of developers regarding low and slow
- Thread starter satchel
- Start date
Help Support SalonGeek:
I didn't think you could buy 18% anymore?!
My old boss used to always whack bleach and 12% on clients no matter what base and then tone the roots with an 8 to tone them down to match in with the ends as it had lightened that quick and that light :/
I use 1.5% or 3% mainly x
satchel
Well-Known Member
Yes, for high lifts you must use 30 and 40.
My colleagues would die that someone uses 1.5% Just die. This is why I ask questions here. I don't want to get into arguments and feelings hurt with people I work with. And here on this board we are all schooled differently and from different countries. So I truly love to hear all of these opinions about the developer and bleach.
I will say I rarely foil anymore. So for balayge and bleach volume 20 and sometimes 30 is needed as I use absolutely no heat. No foils, no heat.
On scalp touch ups I can test 3%. Although wondering if will get as platinum. Maybe I can mix so doesn't dry up as fast. Hard to go back over with clients who have super thick hair. x
My colleagues would die that someone uses 1.5% Just die. This is why I ask questions here. I don't want to get into arguments and feelings hurt with people I work with. And here on this board we are all schooled differently and from different countries. So I truly love to hear all of these opinions about the developer and bleach.
I will say I rarely foil anymore. So for balayge and bleach volume 20 and sometimes 30 is needed as I use absolutely no heat. No foils, no heat.
On scalp touch ups I can test 3%. Although wondering if will get as platinum. Maybe I can mix so doesn't dry up as fast. Hard to go back over with clients who have super thick hair. x
lalalaurz
Well-Known Member
Hi guys, sorry to jump on this but just had a thought...
With the introduction of Olaplex would that change peoples opinion of using a higher peroxide when scalp bleaching? It promises to work magic so could it potentially stop the damage in its tracks? I’m a mobile hairdresser and time is obviously important to me, however I’ve never compromised when it comes to bleaching in any way and I always go low and slow, I just wonder if olaplex could cut the time whilst still keeping the hair in tact?
With the introduction of Olaplex would that change peoples opinion of using a higher peroxide when scalp bleaching? It promises to work magic so could it potentially stop the damage in its tracks? I’m a mobile hairdresser and time is obviously important to me, however I’ve never compromised when it comes to bleaching in any way and I always go low and slow, I just wonder if olaplex could cut the time whilst still keeping the hair in tact?
London hairdresser
New Member
low and slow method is pretty self explanatory.
It goes with out saying : I only voice my opinions and observations. I’ve worked with L’Oréal Schwartkoph Wella Davines Kevin Murphy and o-way.
Use a lower percent for a longer time. People
Never want to believe the truth about bleach ...
Peroxide oxigentes the bleach powder and causes it to be active, if you start the reaction with less oxygen The reaction will be slower and the activity will be prolonged. More Oxygen and the reaction happens must faster with a huge explosion of energy Which tails off with less strength..
With the low and slow method you allow the bleach to take its time and slowly dissolve all the pigments.
Different bleaches have different strengths so that can make a difference in choosing peroxide eg clay bleach tends to be weaker and some people up the developer - id still say 6% unless the hair is 4/0 and below or you can see the hair is absolutely full of pigment - but then perhaps clay wouldn’t be right ? Up to u ... unless ur working with super natural brand such as o-way Kevin Murphy or some thing similar the unnatural conditioning agents will only mask the truth ... Natural bleaches really do give moisture to the fibers of the hair whilst being lightened, so the damage is significantly less as it preserves nots masks. (Sorry for the bleach rant)
Foil work : I really can’t see how any thing more
Than 3% is needed on natural hair .. most salons buy superstong 7 or 9 level of lift bleach so 1.9 or 2% Should be good ... any bleach with super toning quality just masks the truth : those blue pigments wash out fast ... so ur toner won’t be right in a few washes ..
If the client wants hair hair in tact I’m sure she/he wouldn’t mind to wait the extra processing time needed to allow for the low peroxide to work. So many clients with a low pigmented ashy 6 have said to me “my hair lifts really warm it always has” .. bleach in foils can’t lift this fine hair? It’s the strong oxidant which has caused this myth.
Haven’t u noticed that if u use a low percent at the back and high at the front the back foils are so clean and barely need toning? It’s ur proof that low and slow is better.
It goes with out saying : I only voice my opinions and observations. I’ve worked with L’Oréal Schwartkoph Wella Davines Kevin Murphy and o-way.
Use a lower percent for a longer time. People
Never want to believe the truth about bleach ...
Peroxide oxigentes the bleach powder and causes it to be active, if you start the reaction with less oxygen The reaction will be slower and the activity will be prolonged. More Oxygen and the reaction happens must faster with a huge explosion of energy Which tails off with less strength..
With the low and slow method you allow the bleach to take its time and slowly dissolve all the pigments.
Different bleaches have different strengths so that can make a difference in choosing peroxide eg clay bleach tends to be weaker and some people up the developer - id still say 6% unless the hair is 4/0 and below or you can see the hair is absolutely full of pigment - but then perhaps clay wouldn’t be right ? Up to u ... unless ur working with super natural brand such as o-way Kevin Murphy or some thing similar the unnatural conditioning agents will only mask the truth ... Natural bleaches really do give moisture to the fibers of the hair whilst being lightened, so the damage is significantly less as it preserves nots masks. (Sorry for the bleach rant)
Foil work : I really can’t see how any thing more
Than 3% is needed on natural hair .. most salons buy superstong 7 or 9 level of lift bleach so 1.9 or 2% Should be good ... any bleach with super toning quality just masks the truth : those blue pigments wash out fast ... so ur toner won’t be right in a few washes ..
If the client wants hair hair in tact I’m sure she/he wouldn’t mind to wait the extra processing time needed to allow for the low peroxide to work. So many clients with a low pigmented ashy 6 have said to me “my hair lifts really warm it always has” .. bleach in foils can’t lift this fine hair? It’s the strong oxidant which has caused this myth.
Haven’t u noticed that if u use a low percent at the back and high at the front the back foils are so clean and barely need toning? It’s ur proof that low and slow is better.
Piercednige
Well-Known Member
To explain low and slow method...
The analogy I used is...
footballs/rugby balls = black/brown (melanin)
tennis balls/ golf balls =red/yellow (pheomelanin)
Imagine you have a a room jam packed with all these balls and you are given 10 minutes to take as much out as possible.
You will panic and grab whatever you come into contact. some balls of all different sizes and at the end you will be left footballs, rugby balls, tennis balls and gold balls scattered all across the room creating and uneven distribution.
Now imagine if you were given 2 hours, methodically you would remove the footballs and rugby balls first and then move onto the smaller ones after that. you would be left with a much fewer varied sized balls. At the end you would possibly only be left with golf balls and have a very even distribution of them across the room.
Now using the same analogy you can apply The melanin and pheomelanin, this is why alot of people use the low and slow as you get a much more even surface at the end of bleaching.
The analogy I used is...
footballs/rugby balls = black/brown (melanin)
tennis balls/ golf balls =red/yellow (pheomelanin)
Imagine you have a a room jam packed with all these balls and you are given 10 minutes to take as much out as possible.
You will panic and grab whatever you come into contact. some balls of all different sizes and at the end you will be left footballs, rugby balls, tennis balls and gold balls scattered all across the room creating and uneven distribution.
Now imagine if you were given 2 hours, methodically you would remove the footballs and rugby balls first and then move onto the smaller ones after that. you would be left with a much fewer varied sized balls. At the end you would possibly only be left with golf balls and have a very even distribution of them across the room.
Now using the same analogy you can apply The melanin and pheomelanin, this is why alot of people use the low and slow as you get a much more even surface at the end of bleaching.
