Toner help!

[AJSinger]

Hi

I am a qualified hairdresser but I work from home and don’t have fellow hairdressers to discuss much with
I’ve always used L’Oréal po1 toner or the wells illuminas
Recently I started using more wella illumina as they are just so shiny
I saw someone else had used 9/60 with 10/1 and it looked stunning so I tried that tonight on my client and it grasped so quickly that I was panicking as I was trying to cover her head before it went super purple!!! Anyway some of it went such a lovely colour but it’s a bit patchy with warmth in some parts still
She is naturally warm anyway.
She had bleached her hair in lockdown and then someone else corrected it for her but she doesn’t know what they put on it and it was quite patchy
So I bleached her roots with 20vol and bleached any darker areas then combed it all through before I washed it off
Then applied those timers but as I say it is quite patchy
I need help correcting it please I am nervous using 9/60 again because of how violet it went
It’s a level 9 and 10
How do I make it nice and even? I was thinking about just putting a high light tint all over
She doesn’t want highlights she hates foils

Thanks and sorry for long post

 

[AcidPerm]

So I bleached her roots with 20vol and bleached any darker areas then combed it all through before I washed it off

It’s a level 9 and 10
How do I make it nice and even? I was thinking about just putting a high lift tint all over

She doesn’t want highlights she hates foils

When you say patchy, is this after applying a toner or do you mean that some parts are still dark?
I’m going to hazard a guess that it’s patchy after toning because it’s very porous, in which case you could try a porosity equaliser but if it’s badly damaged, there’s not a lot you can do as a damaged cuticle layer can’t be repaired.

You haven’t said what colour your client is aiming for? Platinum, ash..?

1. NEVER comb through bleach. You only ever apply bleach mix to the areas that need it. Combing it through is the same as overlapping and WILL cause patchiness.

2. NEVER use a highlift tint over lightened/bleached hair as a toner. That’s the equivalent of overlapping with bleach as a highlift tint contains lighteners. Only ever use a Highlift tint on virgin hair.

 

[AJSinger]

When you say patchy, is this after applying a toner or do you mean that some parts are still dark?
I’m going to hazard a guess that it’s patchy after toning because it’s very porous, in which case you could try a porosity equaliser but if it’s badly damaged, there’s not a lot you can do as a damaged cuticle layer can’t be repaired.

You haven’t said what colour your client is aiming for? Platinum, ash..?

1. NEVER comb through bleach. You only ever apply bleach mix to the areas that need it. Combing it through is the same as overlapping and WILL cause patchiness.

2. NEVER use a highlift tint over lightened/bleached hair as a toner. That’s the equivalent of overlapping with bleach as a highlift tint contains lighteners. Only ever use a Highlift tint on virgin hair.

Hi ya no the hair is in quite good condition actually And it was patchy before I even started doing anything coz she had done it herself and i mixed chromaplex with the bleach And toner
Her hair took really well to the toner but it just hasn’t covered very well in my opinion
Tbh that’s the first time I’ve ever combed bleach through I think I should have covered the hair much better maybe when I bleached it as she had so many darker patches
She wants it super light but she doesn’t really mind what tone she is not fussed
I’ve never used 9/60 before and I’m not keen coz it went so violet in places even when mixed with 10/1

I know never to use highlift as a toner I would never do that
I barely use it tbh
I only use it on one client as highlights

When I say I combed the bleach through the hair was not saturated with bleach at all just the roots
I was wondering if I should even apply bleach to the darker areas in foils and lighten those up so they lift to the same level as the rest of the hair and it’s nice amd even then apply a L’Oréal po1 coz I personally love that toner

She told me she just loves really light hair

 

[AcidPerm]

Her hair took really well to the toner but it just hasn’t covered very well in my opinion
She told me she just loves really light hair

Sorry, but I don’t understand what you mean?
Are you saying it toned the hair a pale blonde but then washed straight out or that the toner had no effect on the darker patches? I’m wondering if you saw the purple colour developing and panicked to wash it out instead of leaving it to do it’s job?

If it’s still dark and patchy, you could try doing fine bleach foils on the patchy sections to lift it all to a level 9 or 10.

General rule for toning is to match the toner to the level you’ve lifted it to. Think about pigment density and the higher the level, the less colour pigment the tint will contain so if you’ve using a 9 toner on hair that‘s a level 7, it will be like diluting the colour and it won’t be strong enough to neutralise it.

 

[BARBERsammi]

Hi

I am a qualified hairdresser but I work from home and don’t have fellow hairdressers to discuss much with
I’ve always used L’Oréal po1 toner or the wells illuminas
Recently I started using more wella illumina as they are just so shiny
I saw someone else had used 9/60 with 10/1 and it looked stunning so I tried that tonight on my client and it grasped so quickly that I was panicking as I was trying to cover her head before it went super purple!!! Anyway some of it went such a lovely colour but it’s a bit patchy with warmth in some parts still
She is naturally warm anyway.
She had bleached her hair in lockdown and then someone else corrected it for her but she doesn’t know what they put on it and it was quite patchy
So I bleached her roots with 20vol and bleached any darker areas then combed it all through before I washed it off
Then applied those timers but as I say it is quite patchy
I need help correcting it please I am nervous using 9/60 again because of how violet it went
It’s a level 9 and 10
How do I make it nice and even? I was thinking about just putting a high light tint all over
She doesn’t want highlights she hates foils

Thanks and sorry for long post

You could try pre toning.. I do this so I have a blank canvas to wrk on... I don't know much about wella tbh... But my go to for a pre tone is loreal dialight 9.01 just to even any patchyness... Good luck

 

[AJSinger]

Sorry so She is naturally a strawberry blonde level 8/9
She didn’t have much root but She had done a bad bleach job in lockdown and then she got someone to go over it and she has no idea what they used but it was a level 8 I would Say with very yellow areas but then some darker areas of 7 with a strawberry blonde tinge to them
She wanted it all super light

So I bleached the roots and they lifted to a Nice level 10 yellow
And I bleached some of the darker areas too but tbh I don’t think i saturated them enough wit the bleach so they probably weren’t up to a 9/10

I did panic when I saw it turning violet yeah
It’s the first time I’ve used 9/60 and it was turning purple so quickly so maybe I didn’t leave it on long enough

Looking back I think I should have bleached the darker areas in foils so Her whole head was a nice even 10 for me to then tone thoroughly
What do u think?

I don’t usually do this kind of colour it’s usually highlights or balayage in foils so I just need a bit of advice as I’ve learnt something plus it’s difficult when u don’t know what theyve got on their hair it was a bit of a patchy mess to Be honest but she really didn’t want highlights

I am just nervous about using 9/60 again now because of how violet it went.
I know I have to tone to the level of the hair But I’m still learning as I go with new requests and information all the time.

Do you think po1 L’Oréal will work ? I’ve used it loads and do really like it

Thanks again for your time

You could try pre toning.. I do this so I have a blank canvas to wrk on... I don't know much about wella tbh... But my go to for a pre tone is loreal dialight 9.01 just to even any patchyness... Good luck

thanks everyone
I bleached the darker areas and tones with L’Oréal po1 and left it on longer and wasn’t not afraid of the purple haha
Looked beautiful

 

[AcidPerm]

I think you need to remind your client that your tint brush isn’t a magic wand.
Clients sometimes have unrealistic expectations and especially in this case where’s she’s done a home bleach job and someone else has attempted to correct it before she’s come to you.

I live in Ireland, where many of my clients have naturally beautiful strawberry blonde hair. In my experience, the only way to get them to a pale blonde is to use bleach to lift to a level 10 then tone. Highlift tints are useless on this hair type and a bleach with 20vol is the only way to guarantee lifting out all the warm tones.

 

[AJSinger]

I think you need to remind your client that your tint brush isn’t a magic wand.
Clients sometimes have unrealistic expectations and especially in this case where’s she’s done a home bleach job and someone else has attempted to correct it before she’s come to you.

I live in Ireland, where many of my clients have naturally beautiful strawberry blonde hair. In my experience, the only way to get them to a pale blonde is to use bleach to lift to a level 10 then tone. Highlift tints are useless on this hair type and a bleach with 20vol is the only way to guarantee lifting out all the warm tones.

Thanks
She totally admitted she had messed up her hair and given me a hard task
I bleached up the dark bits with 20vol And then toned with L’Oréal po1 and it looked lovely and was very even I was very pleased so another’s happy customer