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Tricks with high lift for newbie

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skylight

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Hi, So i did my client's roots with Wella 12/1 today, she's had it before and it worked well, but last time (at another salon) it went quite ginger. We weren't sure if maybe they used a cheap peroxide, or less than 12% so we decided to give it a go. She is adamant she doesn't want bleach, so it was this or a 12/11 or maybe 12/81 or 89. We tried the 12/1, it seemed to be coming along quite well in the first half hour but then seemed to stop developing. After an hour i got one of my senior colleagues to have a look because it was still bright orange, you could see it glowing through the mixture. She suggested the colour seemed to have dried out a lot and i should add some fresh for another 10 mins. This immediately lifted much better and the resulting colour, while still a bit warm, was pretty good. The condition wasn't so brilliant after being left so long though :irked: I'm still pretty inexperienced with colour and want to learn any tips i can to help in this kind of situation. Should i have added more colour halfway through? The girl's hair was very thick and she was under heat, does it stop working if it dries out too much? Want to do better next time! Thanks, Sky
 

Bluerinse

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You shouldn't use heat for first 15mins, apply liberally with thick hair, what's her base? Leave on full 50 mins!
 

skylight

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Thanks Blue Rinse, do you keep the heat off for the first 15 so that it doesn't dry out or is there another reason? I have never been told to do that . She is base 7, warm undertones. She has showed me a photo of her hair when she used to have high lift and it's a lovely light gold, so i have good reason to expect it can be achieved with high lift on her hair. I did put plenty on today but her thick hair seems to suck it up. It was on for a total of an hour and ten today which i know is way too long but we didn't want to wash it off while her roots were still so orange. Her scalp seemed fine, but hair dry afterwards.
 

taylor28

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You definatley need the full development time with high lift tint and if the hair is a darker base I would use an ash if the hair is lighter use a pearl. ;)
 

Bluerinse

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Well if she's 7 you need to use some with blue then violet try 12/96 the manufacturer tells you not to use hear for first 15 and leave for 50 so the tone can be applied in the last 15
 

skylight

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Thanks for the tips. I've never used 12/96. Still a bit unconfident with the actual effects of different colours on base shades although i know the theory behind the colour wheel etc. Didn't go for a blue or violet tone as she wanted a natural looking light blonde and i thought they might give me more of a white or silvery look? But maybe they don't if the hair is quite warm to start with? Sorry to seem stupid, it's just one thing to know the theory and another to actually have a good idea of what colour it will end up, i need more experience!
 

Bluerinse

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No it won't end up white as its base 6 high lifts only go 4-41/2 levels max! With wella anyway x
 

lilk87

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No it won't end up white as its base 6 high lifts only go 4-41/2 levels max! With wella anyway x
What is the best brand to use then blue? If you want amazing lift that is? And what's the most levels of lift you have got with it? :)
 

Bluerinse

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What is the best brand to use then blue? If you want amazing lift that is? And what's the most levels of lift you have got with it? :)
Thanks for the FB like ;) I've got matrix ultra lift for base 5-6 and give 5 full levels lift! Either use with 30vol or 40vol dependant on colour used, I love them!! X
 

skylight

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lilk87

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Thanks for the FB like ;) I've got matrix ultra lift for base 5-6 and give 5 full levels lift! Either use with 30vol or 40vol dependant on colour used, I love them!! X
Awesome! Il have to invest in some then.

Oh n no worries :)
 

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