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Trying to get a permanent plum colour

SalonGeek

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Hi all. I've been having trouble getting a good plum colour. I've recently switched from affinage to DCM and have used 6/80 with 6 % on a base level 5 with 25% grey. Firstly it looks great then after about 2-3 washes goes very chestnuty ☹
I had an affinage 6/22 in the cupboard and went over my one wash pre coloured hair uh oh 😭 thinking logically afterwards that 6/22 is violet I'm now not surprised it went brown. However the roots are just what I would like.. really purpley plum colour. How do I get the rest of the hair to go this colour? Do I need to strip it or pre pig with something. Help as I'm using my hair as a test because it's happening on a couple of my clients. Not sure if it's the DCM brand as I didn't have these problems before.
 

ronray

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Hi all. I've been having trouble getting a good plum colour. I've recently switched from affinage to DCM and have used 6/80 with 6 % on a base level 5 with 25% grey. Firstly it looks great then after about 2-3 washes goes very chestnuty ☹
I had an affinage 6/22 in the cupboard and went over my one wash pre coloured hair uh oh 😭 thinking logically afterwards that 6/22 is violet I'm now not surprised it went brown. However the roots are just what I would like.. really purpley plum colour. How do I get the rest of the hair to go this colour? Do I need to strip it or pre pig with something. Help as I'm using my hair as a test because it's happening on a couple of my clients. Not sure if it's the DCM brand as I didn't have these problems before.
6% will create lift with a permanent tint, so you're lifting th ends when you put the permanent tint on with6% that's why it's fading to a lighter warmer colour..
You need to be using a demi permanent now on the mid lengths and ends as it's already coloured. Take a look at wella colour touch 55/66 or 55/65 they are amazing colours and last really well.
 
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6% will create lift with a permanent tint, so you're lifting th ends when you put the permanent tint on with6% that's why it's fading to a lighter warmer colour..
You need to be using a demi permanent now on the mid lengths and ends as it's already coloured. Take a look at wella colour touch 55/66 or 55/65 they are amazing colours and last really well.
Hi thanks for info
I used to use 3% but now I'm greyer it just doesn't seem to cover well enough so went back to old school 20vol/3%. So if I re did it in a few weeks could/should I use same colour with 6% on roots to get grey coverage and 3% on mid length n ends? I may well try koleston. It's more expensive but if it's going to give me a better longer lasting results it will be worth it. Thanks in advance
 

ronray

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Hi thanks for info
I used to use 3% but now I'm greyer it just doesn't seem to cover well enough so went back to old school 20vol/3%. So if I re did it in a few weeks could/should I use same colour with 6% on roots to get grey coverage and 3% on mid length n ends? I may well try koleston. It's more expensive but if it's going to give me a better longer lasting results it will be worth it. Thanks in advance
Yes :) let's just say you opted for 55/65 _which is one of my absolute favourites :p
You would use koleston perfect 55/65 + 20vol/6% 1:1 on your roots and then use colour touch 55/65 with 4% or if your ends are extremely light I'd use 1.9% 1:2 on the mid-lengths and ends :)
 
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Yes :) let's just say you opted for 55/65 _which is one of my absolute favourites :p
You would use koleston perfect 55/65 + 20vol/6% 1:1 on your roots and then use colour touch 55/65 with 4% or if your ends are extremely light I'd use 1.9% 1:2 on the mid-lengths and ends :)
You can't use KP with low peroxide then instead of colour touch?
 

ronray

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You can't use KP with low peroxide then instead of colour touch?
Essentially you can, but technically it doesn't work the same way. Because there's ammonia in the koleston (designed to lift) then you will still get slight lift as the colour is depositing, as the ends are already lighter you don't need lift.
So your best option would be to use colour touch for the ends (designed to deposit only) hope this helps :)
 
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Very helpful...I've been trying out this DCM brand as its way cheaper because I don't want to put my prices up. It's ok but seems to fade quickly and I just cannot get a really great red/plumb to hold the tone. I'm going to try KP an CT on mine and see how that lasts. I could always charge differently for wella clients I guess.. you'd never believe I've been hairdressing 30+ years but this whole covid thing has really knocked my confidence
 
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Very helpful...I've been trying out this DCM brand as its way cheaper because I don't want to put my prices up. It's ok but seems to fade quickly and I just cannot get a really great red/plumb to hold the tone. I'm going to try KP an CT on mine and see how that lasts. I could always charge differently for wella clients I guess.. you'd never believe I've been hairdressing 30+ years but this whole covid thing has really knocked my confidence
Oh also.is the 1.9% peroxide just for blonde toning or would that work say with CT level 5
 

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