Warmth with illumina

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MRSCPC1

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Advise with warmth. Bleached to level 10, then toned with illumina 10/68 & 10/81 but the warm is still coming through.
Using 1.9% pastel. What are all your thoughts on using 6% with the toner? Will it lift too much in others areas?
Any advice is appreciated
 

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Was this formula applied to a scalp bleach or highlights? I would be hesitant to apply Illumina with 6% to bleached hair as it will just swell the cuticle even more…
 
Applied to foiled lights. How do I get rid of the warmth? The copper shades
 
Applied to foiled lights. How do I get rid of the warmth? The copper shades
It sounds to me like your formula has broken the base and exposed warmth in between, especially as the picture shows some parts have turned ashy which I imagine are the highlights. The issue is that even with 1.9%, Illumina is still a permanent colour and will always break the base, with the only way to reduce the chances of it doing so is mixing Illumina as a glossing mix as it reduces the alkalinity but sadly it's just inevitable on highlights. Hopefully over time the warmth will die down as the tones fade, especially as it will definitely look more obvious next to the cool blonde areas, so in the meantime if its a big issue your only options are either to tone the hair down darker, or lift up the warmer pieces so they can be toned along with the blonde. For highlights I usually prefer to stick with Colour Touch or Shinefinity as breaking the base is a lot less likely. Just remember if you have to/really want to use Illumina or Koleston for toning highlights then you'd be best to mix it in the glossing mix to reduce the alkalinity as in that mix most of the time it's not strong enough to break the base.
 
It sounds to me like your formula has broken the base and exposed warmth in between, especially as the picture shows some parts have turned ashy which I imagine are the highlights. The issue is that even with 1.9%, Illumina is still a permanent colour and will always break the base, with the only way to reduce the chances of it doing so is mixing Illumina as a glossing mix as it reduces the alkalinity but sadly it's just inevitable on highlights. Hopefully over time the warmth will die down as the tones fade, especially as it will definitely look more obvious next to the cool blonde areas, so in the meantime if its a big issue your only options are either to tone the hair down darker, or lift up the warmer pieces so they can be toned along with the blonde. For highlights I usually prefer to stick with Colour Touch or Shinefinity as breaking the base is a lot less likely. Just remember if you have to/really want to use Illumina or Koleston for toning highlights then you'd be best to mix it in the glossing mix to reduce the alkalinity as in that mix most of the time it's not strong enough to break the base.
Thank you so much for responding. That makes total sense, and yes I always use it as a glossing. 1:2.
I think I’m going to have to go darker to be honest, as I cannot stand the warmth it pulls through. Alternatively bleach all over ? As opposed to lights? What do you think
 
Thank you so much for responding. That makes total sense, and yes I always use it as a glossing. 1:2.
I think I’m going to have to go darker to be honest, as I cannot stand the warmth it pulls through. Alternatively bleach all over ? As opposed to lights? What do you think
No worries at all. Even at 1:2 it will still break the base, in future just make sure you do the actual glossing mix so one part colour, one part 1.9% and one part Wella post colour treatment as it really has made a difference from my experience. I’d say if you’d be happy to go through and pick out those darker bits and lighten them, then maybe go for that and start fresh highlighting the regrowth so you can blend it all out over time, but also going darker could work. It really depends on what the hair can handle :)
 
No worries at all. Even at 1:2 it will still break the base, in future just make sure you do the actual glossing mix so one part colour, one part 1.9% and one part Wella post colour treatment as it really has made a difference from my experience. I’d say if you’d be happy to go through and pick out those darker bits and lighten them, then maybe go for that and start fresh highlighting the regrowth so you can blend it all out over time, but also going darker could work. It really depends on what the hair can handle :)
Ah I’ve never used the post colour treatment in glossing form. So, literally just mix the 1.9, illumina and PCT together with a shot of olaplex ? 20 mins!
 
Ah I’ve never used the post colour treatment in glossing form. So, literally just mix the 1.9, illumina and PCT together with a shot of olaplex ? 20 mins!
Yep, thats correct! I tend to find with the glossing mixes although Wella say 5-10 minutes, I usually need 10-15 (sometimes 20 for a deep deposit) to get the most out of them which I've never had any problems with! Also just a little tip for once you've mixed up, let it sit for a minute or so before applying so the ammonia can off-gas a little, that way you get the most out of your application to reduce the alkalinity even further!
 
Yep, thats correct! I tend to find with the glossing mixes although Wella say 5-10 minutes, I usually need 10-15 (sometimes 20 for a deep deposit) to get the most out of them which I've never had any problems with! Also just a little tip for once you've mixed up, let it sit for a minute or so before applying so the ammonia can off-gas a little, that way you get the most out of your application to reduce the alkalinity even further!
Thank you so much for your advice. Really really helpful and much appreciated:)
 

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