Wella colour and technique help!

Chelsxo

Member
Hello,
I have a client that is naturally around a base 5, then has old colour build up and lighter ends. I will attach the photo of what she has and what she’s wanting (to be done after lockdown).

She also mentions she wants to get rid of the line where the two colours meet. And really likes the lighter cooler root colour.

I am thinking something along the lines of a base 7/86 or 7/89 colour touch + 9% for the root colour? Would this work?

but then is going to that going to be too light in comparison to the mid/darker bands? She does want a lighter root though.

Would you do this as highlights and then do a root smudge with a toner? Or would balayage?

would i need to add darker pieces through to break up the line? Or does this seem a little backwards?Maybe just add lightness through to the darker parts?

Sorry so many questions!
Thank you in advance x
 

Attachments

ronray

Well-Known Member
I'd do a full head of babylights, do a cluster of extremely fine weaves and slices for the hairline around the front. Leave to process.
Shampoo, towle dry really well. Apply your new lighter root shade (7/89) if desired (leaving the front of the sections lighter around the hairline. Apply a toner to the ends and smudge the two colours together to create a blend.
You need to also establish if she wants a cooler blonde or a warmer blonde, because although the effect is the same in both pictures, the tone on the blondes are different.
 

Chelsxo

Member
I'd do a full head of babylights, do a cluster of extremely fine weaves and slices for the hairline around the front. Leave to process.
Shampoo, towle dry really well. Apply your new lighter root shade (7/89) if desired (leaving the front of the sections lighter around the hairline. Apply a toner to the ends and smudge the two colours together to create a blend.
You need to also establish if she wants a cooler blonde or a warmer blonde, because although the effect is the same in both pictures, the tone on the blondes are different.
Okay, thank you!
Would you say 7/89 would be the best root colour to use? i guess her natural root will lift better in comparison to the rest.. so I’ll probably need to use 2 different toners just for the darker colour, would you say?

Do you have any recommendations for the the toners for the blonde ends? I guess it’s a little dependant on how it lifts up (I assume it will be warm)

also with doing it this way with the babylights I worry that once the toner fades (which they do quite quickly) is she going to be left like a full head highlights/blonde underneath?
Thanks again! :)
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
7/89 +6/71 would be nice if you still want it to have a bit of colour. To avoid the full head of highlight look after a while, you could backcomb the root lightly on the sections before highlighting it. Don't forget it hasn't got to be a level 10, you're only doing it to create the ilusion that the mid lengths are lighter.
So I'd do 6/71+ 7/89 on the very root, maybe 7/89 on the mid lengths and then where you want to keep the lighter ends and lighter sections use something like colour touch 9/97 to tone, or if it's really warm try 9/16. Always use 1.9% to tone or deposit :)
 

Chelsxo

Member
7/89 +6/71 would be nice if you still want it to have a bit of colour. To avoid the full head of highlight look after a while, you could backcomb the root lightly on the sections before highlighting it. Don't forget it hasn't got to be a level 10, you're only doing it to create the ilusion that the mid lengths are lighter.
So I'd do 6/71+ 7/89 on the very root, maybe 7/89 on the mid lengths and then where you want to keep the lighter ends and lighter sections use something like colour touch 9/97 to tone, or if it's really warm try 9/16. Always use 1.9% to tone or deposit :)
Okay perfect, thank you!
Would you still pull the bleach through to the ends? Using a lower peroxide? Or literally just cover the dark?
Thanks again! X
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Okay perfect, thank you!
Would you still pull the bleach through to the ends? Using a lower peroxide? Or literally just cover the dark?
Thanks again! X
If you want the ends lighter and cleaner then yes :)
 

Chelsxo

Member
If you want the ends lighter and cleaner then yes :)
Thank you!
So with the hair that’s left out of the foil.. would you pull a lowlight through? Something that’s cooler as the dark is really warm in comparison to what she wants?
If so, would 7/89 + 9% for the roots and 7/89 + 1.9% for the mids and ends be okay? What would you suggest?

also I’m concerned about the banding she has in her hair already.. It kinda goes from her natural dark root to lighter colour, to darker colour build up to lighter ends.. do I need to take this into Consideration at all? I don’t want to make this worse..
thanks again Ronray :)
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Thank you!
So with the hair that’s left out of the foil.. would you pull a lowlight through? Something that’s cooler as the dark is really warm in comparison to what she wants?
If so, would 7/89 + 9% for the roots and 7/89 + 1.9% for the mids and ends be okay? What would you suggest?

also I’m concerned about the banding she has in her hair already.. It kinda goes from her natural dark root to lighter colour, to darker colour build up to lighter ends.. do I need to take this into Consideration at all? I don’t want to make this worse..
thanks again Ronray :)
By looking at the depth of her hair 7/89 on her darker, warmer base won't do anything. If you do the babylights this will help lift the hair and minimise banding, and then recolour it, so you'll have the lighter cooler hair, mixed with her darker warmer hair, which will create the illusion that she has lighter more natural looking hair.
Your other option if you're worried about all the banding is to do a colour remover to even out the base first.
 

Chelsxo

Member
By looking at the depth of her hair 7/89 on her darker, warmer base won't do anything. If you do the babylights this will help lift the hair and minimise banding, and then recolour it, so you'll have the lighter cooler hair, mixed with her darker warmer hair, which will create the illusion that she has lighter more natural looking hair.
Your other option if you're worried about all the banding is to do a colour remover to even out the base first.
Okay lovely!☺

So would you recommend doing that first? It’s not something I’m over familiar with really! X
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Okay lovely!☺

So would you recommend doing that first? It’s not something I’m over familiar with really! X
Yes definitely :)
 

Chelsxo

Member
So this was the outcome.. we didn’t do the colour remover first.. we just went in straight away with highlights!
next time would you do the same thing in order to get it more like the pictures? And maybe Put less 6/71 in the root smudge to make it a lighter? Or maybe don’t leave it on for as long? And maybe a lighter colour for the ends too? (As long as the darker band is continued to be broken up)

thank you! X
 

Attachments

ronray

Well-Known Member
So this was the outcome.. we didn’t do the colour remover first.. we just went in straight away with highlights!
next time would you do the same thing in order to get it more like the pictures? And maybe Put less 6/71 in the root smudge to make it a lighter? Or maybe don’t leave it on for as long? And maybe a lighter colour for the ends too? (As long as the darker band is continued to be broken up)

thank you! X
Looks lovely. I would see how it fades off and maybe just do some face framing highlights low developer , really tightly packed and then add a few babylights if you feel like it needs it to break up anything that wasn't broken up this time. While this is developing I'd use a lightener on those ends, free hand some sections to get that real lighter pop on the ends. Then maybe tone the ends with 9/16 colour touch with a bit of 8/38 or if it's not clean just use 9/16.
You may be able to reduce the amount of 6/71 next time, especially as you'll be reducing the banding. Maybe start with 2parts 7/89 + 1 part 6/71 with 1.9% and see how that goes. If you want it even cooler you could try 6/1 instead of the 6/71 :)
 

Chelsxo

Member
Thank you so much! She wants to book in for a toner re fresh in a couple of weeks.. so would you use the same toner as last time? Or is that going to make it harder for when she’s booked in for the foils again? X
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much! She wants to book in for a toner re fresh in a couple of weeks.. so would you use the same toner as last time? Or is that going to make it harder for when she’s booked in for the foils again? X
No I can't see why not, by the time it's due to be done again it should've started to lose its intensity :)
 
Top