Wella koleston high lift too brassy

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saral123

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Hi guys , I'm having problems with the high lift range, lifting from a base 6 I've used 12/81 but still a bit yellow, I've tried various wella toners but they have not had much effect , trying to achieve a pearl blonde slightly ashy , I've been recommended guy tang toners , has anyone experience of these please?
Many thanks Sara
 
Hi guys , I'm having problems with the high lift range, lifting from a base 6 I've used 12/81 but still a bit yellow, I've tried various wella toners but they have not had much effect , trying to achieve a pearl blonde slightly ashy , I've been recommended guy tang toners , has anyone experience of these please?
Many thanks Sara
Hi Sara, understanding the theory of highlifts will really help you here. Wella special blonde offers 4-5 levels of lift with 12% left for 60 mins. Because you're lifting from a level 6 there will be a lot of underlying pigment exposed. I find that highlift never lift clean and tone well unless they're being used on a level 7 or lighter. I also always found 12/89 to lift cleaner than 12/81.
I would either look at adding extra tone into your highlift formula. For example use 15g 12/81 + 15g12/89 + 1.5g 0/28 + 63g 12% the other option is to change to a good quality scalp bleach with a low developer to get a better, cleaner lift and then toning.
 
Hi Sara, understanding the theory of highlifts will really help you here. Wella special blonde offers 4-5 levels of lift with 12% left for 60 mins. Because you're lifting from a level 6 there will be a lot of underlying pigment exposed. I find that highlift never lift clean and tone well unless they're being used on a level 7 or lighter. I also always found 12/89 to lift cleaner than 12/81.
I would either look at adding extra tone into your highlift formula. For example use 15g 12/81 + 15g12/89 + 1.5g 0/28 + 63g 12% the other option is to change to a good quality scalp bleach with a low developer to get a better, cleaner lift and then toning.
Hi, thank you so much for you reply! That's so helpful ! That isn't something I was taught and I guess that comes from experience , I'll definitely try that , as for toners , the hair is a level 10 now but like I said too yellow , I've tried various 10 toners to cancel out the unwanted tone but they haven't done a very good job , either I'm not being brave enough with choice of toner or maybe I should drop down a level to a 9 toner ?
Many thanks again, Sara
 
Hi, thank you so much for you reply! That's so helpful ! That isn't something I was taught and I guess that comes from experience , I'll definitely try that , as for toners , the hair is a level 10 now but like I said too yellow , I've tried various 10 toners to cancel out the unwanted tone but they haven't done a very good job , either I'm not being brave enough with choice of toner or maybe I should drop down a level to a 9 toner ?
Many thanks again, Sara
Also ...sorry again to be a pest! Definitely 1.5 g of 0/28 to add to the mix ? If looks so intense, it's a bit daunting when newly qualified, I would of gone for 0/81 or 0/11 1.59 but that's because I don't have your experience
Many thanks Sara
 
Ronray is your best bet at formulas as he’s helped me many times, but just wanted to say I found the same thing when Wella changed their formula a few years ago, even on my hair I used to use 12/11 had done for years, and then it always looked too brassy after they changed it,
I believe the Illumina range of colours are a cooler base so maybe try them for toning?
I tend to use colour touch and since covid I now use bleach 6% and CT toners far more than I ever have in the last 20 years of hairdressing! So I’m still learning,
 
Ronray is your best bet at formulas as he’s helped me many times, but just wanted to say I found the same thing when Wella changed their formula a few years ago, even on my hair I used to use 12/11 had done for years, and then it always looked too brassy after they changed it,
I believe the Illumina range of colours are a cooler base so maybe try them for toning?
I tend to use colour touch and since covid I now use bleach 6% and CT toners far more than I ever have in the last 20 years of hairdressing! So I’m still learning,
Thank you so much!
Yes Ronray sounds so knowledgeable !
I may Try bleach on my roots next time or try rhe formula Ronray said with the high lift
Ok ill have a look at the ilumina range, I've never used them
Thank yoh !
 
Hi, thank you so much for you reply! That's so helpful ! That isn't something I was taught and I guess that comes from experience , I'll definitely try that , as for toners , the hair is a level 10 now but like I said too yellow , I've tried various 10 toners to cancel out the unwanted tone but they haven't done a very good job , either I'm not being brave enough with choice of toner or maybe I should drop down a level to a 9 toner ?
Many thanks again, Sara
Is it definitely lifting to a level 10?
What toners are you using?
 
Is it definitely lifting to a level 10?
What toners are you using?
Hi Ronray ,
Well it's kindof in between a 9 and a 10 if I'm being picky if that's possible!
Soo today I toned with 20 gs of colour touch 10/6 and 4gs of 9/96:it's come out the perfect cool pearl slightly ashy tone
I just hope it last now!
I wouldn't of used 10/6 but I saw you recommended it on one of your posts so thank you !
 

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