Wella Koleston Perfect

[EmilyA]

Would really appreciate formula suggestions using Wella Koleston as I'm not familiar with it. Client wants this color, is a level 5 with 30% resistant grays, previous treatment has brought out a lot of orange pigment.

Thank you !

 

[ronray]

Would really appreciate formula suggestions using Wella Koleston as I'm not familiar with it. Client wants this color, is a level 5 with 30% resistant grays, previous treatment has brought out a lot of orange pigment.

Thank you !

Can I ask does it have to be koleston?
I feel like Illumina might be a better choice. Let me know what you think and I'll help you formulate either way.
Also what did you use last time?

 

[EmilyA]

Hi Ron!

I don't have much experience with Wella but from what I do, it seems Illumina is less vibrant & fades faster. Client loved the rich color & shine of Koleston but since there's so much gray I thought I'd use Illumina last time (just 7/-).

Illumina wasn't nearly as pigmented, faded fast & both Koleston & Illumina turn quite orange in 3-4 weeks. So I need to lift from 5 to a 7 (a real 7 not Wella 7 which seems more like a 6 so maybe use Wella 8?) and neutralize orange.

So would prefer to use KP to get that rich color & shine but if I can get a similar result from Illumina I could use that too.

 

[ronray]

When I look at that photo I see a base 5 at the root, with a warmer highlight running through it?
When you're lifting the hair with tint you will always get warmth, regardless of what tint you chose, because the tone that gets deposited after the initial lift will always fade off.
My go to would be Illumina 5/ for the base and add slices of KP 7/37 + 7/34.

 

[EmilyA]

Is 20 vol enough or should I use 30 vol?
I'm trying to get a cool highlight given skin tone (not warm) & counter orange so shouldn't I be using a pearl /8 shade as /3 is yellow? That's what I thought last year & I did use 7/89 on this client but it didn't look good, came out a muddy flat color with a grayish cast. So I guess I'm asking basically how to get a level 7 ash brown with cool not warm subdued auburn highlights.

 

[ronray]

It's difficult because her natural colour will show warmth as soon as its exposed to colour.
The best option would be to use 10/0 + 12% for the highlights. And then as a base colour I'd use 7/02 + 6% for the base.
Realistically if you want a really cool colour then you'd have to lift the hair first and then deposit the cooler colour.

 

[EmilyA]

Is 7/2 comparable to 7/02? Would Blondor be okay to use instead of 10/0?
If I was to lift first, what would I use?

 

[ronray]

Is 7/2 comparable to 7/02? Would Blondor be okay to use instead of 10/0?
If I was to lift first, what would I use?

Yeah if you was to lift it first then I'd use blondor + 3% but then I'd use colour touch to re colour it. I'd go with 6/71 + 8/71.

 

[EmilyA]

Hey Ron, I followed your advice and used 7/71 rather than 8/71 since I only had 6% on hand... color came out really nice, but there's just a touch of brassiness. What toner would you suggest?

 

[ronray]

Hey Ron, I followed your advice and used 7/71 rather than 8/71 since I only had 6% on hand... color came out really nice, but there's just a touch of brassiness. What toner would you suggest?

7/89 or retail a cool brunette shampoo

 

[EmilyA]

Have you found a good cool brunette shampoo?

 

[ronray]

Have you found a good cool brunette shampoo?

Sorry I missed your reply. Wella colour recharge cool brunette maybe?