Wella KP Special Blonde help please!

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neegirl77

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Hi there. Really hoping someone can help as have orange/ gold roots and feel like can't leave the house.

Basically I have been trained for around 15 years but only cut now I am not a colour expert.

I used to colour my hair using Well a KP 12 11 with 40 vol (natural shade level 7) which turned out beautiful clean blonde no brassy undertones.

Over the years I felt 40 vol was too harsh so started using 30vol but this made hair extremely brassy not good.

I grew my roots out for around a year then last week decided to go bk blonde using same colour that I know works. So I used 40vol as didn't want any brass and knew that used to work well. When I was mixing it it seemed to be really thick compared to years ago (not as much peroxide as I used to use but followed instructions 1:2)

Now its blonde so still brassy orange shade on roots I hate it!!!! I have tried two blue based toners that have toned the rest if my hair lovely but not budging on the roots!!!! Still orange.

So now I'm thinking I should use more peroxide like years ago (I used to guess formula as used every 3 weeks for 10 years) as will lighten more therefore toners will work?

Worried though as not sure if putting 40 vol on again will be too harsh? Can I get away with 30 vol?

Just really really need to get rid of this warmth feel really upset about it all? I also have red undertones in my hair naturally.

Can anyone help?? Thanks
 
Hi there. Really hoping someone can help as have orange/ gold roots and feel like can't leave the house.

Basically I have been trained for around 15 years but only cut now I am not a colour expert.

I used to colour my hair using Well a KP 12 11 with 40 vol (natural shade level 7) which turned out beautiful clean blonde no brassy undertones.

Over the years I felt 40 vol was too harsh so started using 30vol but this made hair extremely brassy not good.

I grew my roots out for around a year then last week decided to go bk blonde using same colour that I know works. So I used 40vol as didn't want any brass and knew that used to work well. When I was mixing it it seemed to be really thick compared to years ago (not as much peroxide as I used to use but followed instructions 1:2)

Now its blonde so still brassy orange shade on roots I hate it!!!! I have tried two blue based toners that have toned the rest if my hair lovely but not budging on the roots!!!! Still orange.

So now I'm thinking I should use more peroxide like years ago (I used to guess formula as used every 3 weeks for 10 years) as will lighten more therefore toners will work?

Worried though as not sure if putting 40 vol on again will be too harsh? Can I get away with 30 vol?

Just really really need to get rid of this warmth feel really upset about it all? I also have red undertones in my hair naturally.

Can anyone help?? Thanks

Three possiblities cross my mind.

Your hair may have darkened over the course of the last year. If this is the case, then your previous formula wouldn't work.

Also, since you were doing regrowth every three weeks, you were constanyly over lapping and it was the second round of highlift that actually gave you enough lift.

Perhaps also the highlift is only enough for the 1/4 of regrowth at the scalp where your body heat aided the lifting process.

Also /11 will not neutralize orange, for that, you need /81, 86, or 89. If you really are lifting red, your a 6, not a 7, and highlift will not get you where you want to be. In that case, you need to bleach and tone.

Finally, changing the amount of peroxide ie not following manufacturer instructions, will not yield you better results. Using the correct tone to neutralize the underlying pigment and extending development time might.



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Thanks so much for replying I thought exactly the same. Don't think my hair has darkened. I was thinking of putting on again 12 11 40 vol but also bought 9/8 so may try that too both in strand tests??

Its not massively orange in fact most people won't be able yo tell but for me its very warm compared to ends its probably more gold tbh.

What do you think? Thanks so much
 
I guess like tsparker said when you did your regrowth every 3 weeks the heat from your scalp and the fact it was really fresh hair not fully hardened made it possible to get a cleaner lift.

I would try to carefully lighten bigger panels of you current hair with a mild lightener and flood the rest with 9/8 with clear. Watch it as it can develop really quick and rather just gloss the brassy areas.
From then you can just apply your 12/11 with double 40 as you did and add a few foils of lightener every 3 times.
 
I guess like tsparker said when you did your regrowth every 3 weeks the heat from your scalp and the fact it was really fresh hair not fully hardened made it possible to get a cleaner lift.

I would try to carefully lighten bigger panels of you current hair with a mild lightener and flood the rest with 9/8 with clear. Watch it as it can develop really quick and rather just gloss the brassy areas.
From then you can just apply your 12/11 with double 40 as you did and add a few foils of lightener every 3 times.

Listen to Pancakes on this. He has much better product knowledge of highlift than i do. I avoid highlift even on light bases i prefer weak bleach and tone as it gives me more predictable results.

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Thanks so much guys!! Just have a few more questions if I may ask:

What mild lightener is best to use? I was going to put same colour 12/11 40 vol on again? Shall I not do this now?

I have 9/8 but what do you mean by clear gloss? Would you use 10 vol? I'm nervous to use tho as different colour & worried will mess up more?

And finally in future you say do as usual 12/11 but double 40 vol? What does that mean? I used 30 ml 12/11 and 60ml 40 vol, should I be using 30ml 12/11 and 120ml 40vol? If so that explains things as defo used to use more 40vol last time?

Thanks so much for helping me I really appreciate it as been feeling really low about it all. Thanks
 
I'm not crazy about overlapping highlift. In the end its your choice, but I'd be worried about breakage and blowing the cuticle layer.

If you want to take Pancakes suggestion and do bleach panels and tone, I'd either use blondor cream and pastel, or maybe silklift by goldwell if you can get it. It's a fabulous product that doesn't damage the hair.

Wella Color touch has a clear gloss, that may be what Pancakes is referencing.
Double 40 just means following directions 1 part tint to 2 parts 12% developer.

Don't feel bad, everybody makes mistakes except for those who never do anything.

I really think if you going to use highlift, you need something with blue violet to counter the gold, but thats just my opinion.

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Yeah i agree with tsparker about the using blue in the highlift. Really not a fan of 12/1 and 12/11, ash doesn't neutralise anything.
 
Yeah i agree with tsparker about the using blue in the highlift. Really not a fan of 12/1 and 12/11, ash doesn't neutralise anything.

It's great for yellow with an ash film over it. I know some people really like that look 😆

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It's great for yellow with an ash film over it. I know some people really like that look 😆

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Not a fan😷
 
Op, why don't you upload a pic. It's worth a 1, 000 words you know 😊

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Agree picture needed.. Then more help can be given x
 
View attachment 84096

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What's on the mids and ends? Bleach?

To op
So prior to been this colour you just let your hair grow out for a year left a solid line, No other colour at all applied? and you then do yrs regrowth with 12/11?
 
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What's on the mids and ends? Bleach?

Oh, not sure, she's a tv star, not a client.

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Don't you think she'd do something with her eyebrows...
 
Don't you think she'd do something with her eyebrows...

She's a comedienne. I think the look is part of the persona.

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