Wella light blonde to darker blonde

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Katt

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Hi there geeks , looking for some advise please. My client is naturally a Base 5/6 we have been using 12/1, spot 12/11 12% kp on roots for a while now with 8/81 colour touch toner at basin as she has a lot of natural warm tones and wanted a very light ash blonde. She now wants to be a Base 8/9. I'm thinking 9/8 with 9/1 kp 6% roots and 88/0 8/1 kp ends with possible toner again at basin but worried the root difference will show. The high lift tint was irritating her also so wanted to bring it back a few shades to be kinder to the scalp but still give her a nice light blonde. Any thoughts would be appreciated on this. Thankyou
 
From a base 5/6 when you lift it’ll be slightly warm anyway.

Why choose a level 9 with 6%? 6% only gives one level of lift. /8 tone is good but /1 is only used to soften.


For the ends are you going to pre pig, I defo wouldn’t be using 88/0?

What level does the 12/1 lift too at the moment? Do you stock Illumina too?
 
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Hi Essex Freelance, thanks for the reply. Yeh she's got some natural warm as well tho hense using the 9/8. Sorry I meant to say 9% with the roots. I wasn't going to pre pig as thought this would be okay on its own as just looking to really tone down a bit. Thinking the 88/0 on the 12 would be enough to to take it back to a 9 without sliding as going 7 is too dark. It normally lifts to a warm 12 but I normally use a toner also. Yes I stock illumina.
 
If she is a 5/6 it won’t be a level 12. The lightest level you get is a 10 and a highlift lifts up to 5 levels. Even using a 9/8 with 9% will get you around 2 levels of lift which is a 7/8. 88/0 is very flat and dark and for use with resistant white hair.


I like the Illumina shades like 7/81 or 8/69
 
I wouldn't bother using highlift on anything lower than a 6 as it doesn't have enough pigment in it to fully neutralise warm tones, plus you need to use 12% developer to make it work. Hair will be in better shape if you bleach with a good quality bleach and low vol developer and then tone.

I agree with @EssexFreelance and look at using Illumina for toning as they have some gorgeous natural blonde shades.
 
If she is a 5/6 it won’t be a level 12. The lightest level you get is a 10 and a highlift lifts up to 5 levels. Even using a 9/8 with 9% will get you around 2 levels of lift which is a 7/8. 88/0 is very flat and dark and for use with resistant white hair.


I like the Illumina shades like 7/81 or 8/69
It does surprisingly lift that well. Do you reckon a 10/8 9% roots then say 8/69 ends? Thankyou
 
I wouldn't bother using highlift on anything lower than a 6 as it doesn't have enough pigment in it to fully neutralise warm tones, plus you need to use 12% developer to make it work. Hair will be in better shape if you bleach with a good quality bleach and low vol developer and then tone.

I agree with @EssexFreelance and look at using Illumina for toning as they have some gorgeous natural blonde shades.
Hi there, thanks for reply, her hair did lift surprisingly well with the 12+12%. Her skin is sensitive and the hi lift was irritating it hence pulling back a couple shades to be kinder but still blonde. Bleach is certainly not an option on this client due to sensitivity. But I prefer the options of illumina as less damaging to the hair and kinder to the scalp. Thankyou
 
It does surprisingly lift that well. Do you reckon a 10/8 9% roots then say 8/69 ends? Thankyou


If she wants to be a level 8 I would just use a level 8 with 9%. I wouldn’t use a 9 or 10?

If the ends are light and porous you may want to pre pig I guess?
 
If she wants to be a level 8 I would just use a level 8 with 9%. I wouldn’t use a 9 or 10?

If the ends are light and porous you may want to pre pig I guess?
Okay thanks for your help. I was just worried that the 8, even with 9% wouldn't lift quite enough. That's how I was edging more towards the 9 for roots. Thanks for your advise. Appreciate it x
 
Okay thanks for your help. I was just worried that the 8, even with 9% wouldn't lift quite enough. That's how I was edging more towards the 9 for roots. Thanks for your advise. Appreciate it x
To get the lift you need to up the peroxide to a 12% using a 9/8 and 6/9% will just get you a warm 7/8
 
To get the lift you need to up the peroxide to a 12% using a 9/8 and 6/9% will just get you a warm 7/8
Yeh this is the problem. I'm trying to come away from the higher peroxide also as she has skin sensitivity with the 12 and 12% and want to be kinder to both her hair and scalp. Her hair is in great condition and use olaplex too. Just trying to get that perfect light natural blonde with no band whatsoever. Due to the warmth in her hair and sensitivity it has made me want to rethink what is best to get it perfect. Your advice has been really helpful. Sometimes overthinking it isn't great and best to stick to basics. Thanks again
 
Yeh this is the problem. I'm trying to come away from the higher peroxide also as she has skin sensitivity with the 12 and 12% and want to be kinder to both her hair and scalp. Her hair is in great condition and use olaplex too. Just trying to get that perfect light natural blonde with no band whatsoever. Due to the warmth in her hair and sensitivity it has made me want to rethink what is best to get it perfect. Your advice has been really helpful. Sometimes overthinking it isn't great and best to stick to basics. Thanks again
Thinking I'll go with the base 9/10 and 9% half peroxide roots and just do a lovely toner through the rest of it. X
 
Thinking I'll go with the base 9/10 and 9% half peroxide roots and just do a lovely toner through the rest of it. X
That will get you 2 levels of lift so around a level 8 so choosing a level 8 is best as it’s more pigment that a lighter shade.

Also why Half peroxide?
 
That will get you 2 levels of lift so around a level 8 so choosing a level 8 is best as it’s more pigment that a lighter shade.

Also why Half peroxide?
Lol sorry pred txt. Don't know where "half" came from. I'm just a bit nervous with using a direct 8 instead of 9 as thinking it might not lift enough. If I use the 9 with 9% then I have more chance and can tone after? X
 
Lol sorry pred txt. Don't know where "half" came from. I'm just a bit nervous with using a direct 8 instead of 9 as thinking it might not lift enough. If I use the 9 with 9% then I have more chance and can tone after? X
Lift comes from the peroxide.
 

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