Which blonde to use

[rmwelch]

Hi salon geeks, I have a new client whose hair always looks fabulous I feel sick to my stomach that she has asked me to do it this time as I am useless at matching colours up from other stylists. She is naturally a 5 or 6 I would say and wants a couple of different shades of blond to stop it looking like a block colour. She is open to bleach but was struggling to know which colour to use to give contrast as worried anything less than highlift would turn the roots an orangey kind of shade. Can anyone suggest a nice contrasting shade of blond for me please? I work mobile part time so only use koleston which I trained with, but open to other products. I am doing this Saturday so plenty of time if you could give me some time. Thank you x

 

[Rhe]

hi, its hard to say as we cant see clients hair at mo, but if er natural is a base 5/6 then i wouldnt use hi lift, i would bleach and tone, there are plenty of lovely wella toners but it totally depends on what the client wants, and maybe foil some diff blondes inbetween the bleach? hope that helps x

 

[donna hair]

I like bleach highlights when broke up with a 9. I normally use a .3 if they don't have the bleach very ash or if the bleach is quite bright i use a beige. I've not used wella for ages but think it might be a .38.

Don't panic she's asked you to do it because she trusts you and must like your work x

 

[Rhe]

I like bleach highlights when broke up with a 9. I normally use a .3 if they don't have the bleach very ash or if the bleach is quite bright i use a beige. I've not used wella for ages but think it might be a .38.

Don't panic she's asked you to do it because she trusts you and must like your work x

9/38 is beautifull!! x

 

[rmwelch]

Thanks for your replies. Could I ask if I used a 9/38 in between the bleached foils wouldn't the roots go that horrible shade of orange or would I just tone afterwards with the 9/38? Thanks.

 

[donna hair]

Are you doing it as an all over colour or as low lights? If she's a 6 you'll be fine using 9% on roots

 

[rmwelch]

Hi Donna, well I was thinking of bleached foils and alternating with a base 10 shade but then thought Id get the orange tone at the roots as four shades lighter and there wouldnt be too much of a contrast. I like the idea of 9/38 just looked at my chart but it is a permanent so would you suggest that as alternate foil instead of as an all over toner after the bleach?

 

[donna hair]

Yeah I'd use on a 2:1 ratio. 2 being the bleach.

Put loads of fine foils in and it should look lovely x

 

[Rhe]

I would mix the 9/38 with pastel developer for the ends, this is a 1:2 ratio, then on her roots use 9:38 mixed with 9% developer xxx

 

[donna hair]

Yeah agree with putting 1.2 on ends forgot to mention that.

Put roots with 9 and finish does with 1.2

Put a sticker on one of the bowls so you know with ones which.

 

[kaiguest]

hey, id be so scared of using 9/38 on a base 5/6, ive never done it for that reason so i cant say it'll work or not. 9% is gunna lift 3 shades max. i hardly ever lift a dark base with a neutral colour just because when you're lifting its gunna throw so much warmth out and if its lighter through ends 9/38 isnt gunna blend in the root as they will deffo lift up warmer.

its very hard to give you the best advice considering we cant see the hair but, id deffo go in with bleach foils loads and perhaps just put 9/1 9% in between on the roots then do 9/3 with pastel on then ends.

thats just my thoughts really but you should always trust your instincts and really if the roots dont lift quite how you want them then you can always just use a mild cleansing bath on roots to lift em slightly and then tone everything after cause the highlights will react different to the toner and still leave it multi tonal x

 

[Perry_Althair]

hey, id be so scared of using 9/38 on a base 5/6, ive never done it for that reason so i cant say it'll work or not. 9% is gunna lift 3 shades max. i hardly ever lift a dark base with a neutral colour just because when you're lifting its gunna throw so much warmth out and if its lighter through ends 9/38 isnt gunna blend in the root as they will deffo lift up warmer.

its very hard to give you the best advice considering we cant see the hair but, id deffo go in with bleach foils loads and perhaps just put 9/1 9% in between on the roots then do 9/3 with pastel on then ends.

thats just my thoughts really but you should always trust your instincts and really if the roots dont lift quite how you want them then you can always just use a mild cleansing bath on roots to lift em slightly and then tone everything after cause the highlights will react different to the toner and still leave it multi tonal x

Totally agree, if i were to lift from a 5/6 id probably use a green/metallic tone as i find that neutralises better from that level, i know strictly it would throw up orange, if i were using spectrum i would mix the green pigment for that level so i just go on that rule and it works so much better. however i dont know whether wella have a green tone, i only know if the 00/22 (or is it /22?) but im not sure if u could mix that with the 9,1 to neutralise both red and orange?

 

[kaiguest]

yeah they have either 0/22 or 0/28, i never use green tones just because im always weary of greeny results, however if i was gunna use either or them id probz use 0/28 but only like 2ml to 30ml cause 0/22 i can imagine leaving it abit murky where as i can see 0/28 leaving it cleaner

BUT if you are to use a mixer tone like these do not overlap

 

[rmwelch]

Hi everyone, thanks for your advise, I must admit I got lost at the 0/22 and 0/28 bit, having never used pure tones before. So what would you think about lots of bleached foils for the root lift and then a full head of 9/3 in colour touch afterwards to tone and give warmth? x

 

[kaiguest]

Hi everyone, thanks for your advise, I must admit I got lost at the 0/22 and 0/28 bit, having never used pure tones before. So what would you think about lots of bleached foils for the root lift and then a full head of 9/3 in colour touch afterwards to tone and give warmth? x

haha dont worry, tbh im a little lost,
are you just doing foils?
is she currently full head blonde?
what depth is she mid lengths and ends?

 

[rmwelch]

Hiya - thanks ha ha. I get that the green shade of ash would remove any warm tones, but I have never played with pure tones before and with this client being new and so perfect looking I wouldn't want to play on her head of hair lol. She looks like she has had possibly a 9 on before, her mid lengths and ends aren't a clean blonde more of a deep yellow shade and it looks like the last hairdresser didn't use bleach as her roots didn't lift and looked slightly warmer than the rest of her hair, which is why she wasn't happy with her. She did used to go to Tony & Guy who always made a perfect job of her hair. Thanks for your help I am really grateful for your time.

 

[rmwelch]

Hi again sorry didn't answer your question in full - yes I am just doing foils and she looks like a full head but has just got tons of colour build up through foils for years, which is why she wants a couple of different shades of blonde to stop it looking like a block colour. Thanks again x

 

[Pika]

What is the natural tone in her hair? That plays a big part in what colour you decide to go with, if she's got natural golden tones to her hair then using a gold based colour will only emphasise that x

 

[rmwelch]

Hiya, it is quite warm actually. She wants to maintain the warmth in her hair, but I just not a different tome at the roots.....

 

[rmwelch]

Hi with regards to the 9/3 colour touch - I think I'll scrap that idea - what about 9/1 quasi inbetween the bleached foils? Any thoughts on that? x