Which perm solution should I use for Asian hair?

perm solution,asian hair?

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Skye1004

New Member
#1
Hello. I really need advice...
I am a cosmetology student and I have been taking clients for 2months so far.
I have been doing color and cutting for 2months. It is getting more comfortable. However I have never done a perm for a client .
Finally, I have a chance to get a perming client next week. So, I ask my teachers lots of questions about perms and no one give me a clear idea... also my client is Asian (she is Chinese). None of my teachers have done a perm for an asian. I am really frustrated now.
If anyone has experience with asian hair perm (body wave)could you give me some advice?
Our school use only Redken products. I am going to use redken perm solution "Creative curl normal/resistant " But If some other product is better than redken, would you recommend it?

Thanks
 
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#2
I use loreal dulcia tonica for perms. I find Asian hair takes very well to a perm even tho its dead straight hair. Good luck and it's normal to worry about things prior to doing for the first time.
 

RED STAR

Well-Known Member
#3
Agree with the above....Asian hair can take easier than you would imagine.
When you take your test curl, If your 's' bend is a little weak, you can always re-saturate with a stronger solution....;)
 
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Anna Amma

New Member
#4
I completely agree with the other posts. Asian hair is by far the perfect hair type to perm. As a first perming experience you are lucky here, as Asian hair will form a good curl pattern with all lotions.

As some general advice, I would select an alkaline based lotion with a Normal strength. Unless the hair has been lightened (which is never a great idea to perm over anyway), it's been my experience Asian hair will work fine with formulas that are labelled as 'Normal' strength. If you use an acid based formula, it will possibly be too gentle for the hair type, although you will still get a curl pattern. It won't be as firm initially and may drop more. The important thing about a perm is the word 'perm' meaning permanent, you don't want to loose the curl and wave after only a few weeks.

The next piece of advice I would give you (as a new permer), is go a rod size (ideally two rod sizes) smaller than the desired curl you are seeking. Perms will relax over the first couple of weeks by two rod sizes. Any modern advice or visuals you are seeing on perming is showing the hair being wound on huge rods. When perming, large rods will only ever produce a bend in the hair - which is fine if someone wants a mild beachy look, the problem is, after 6 weeks the wave pattern has entirely relaxed out of the hair, yet the hair has still been chemically processed. So you cannot go back in and perm again for a good few months.

I would also recommend you ask your client to clarify their hair for the few washes prior to the perm, this will make sure the hair is completely free of any product build up. Then use the appropriate pre-perm or detoxing shampoo right before the perm service.

Remember to wind in clean sections and with good even tension, if you wind the hair too weakly the bonds in the hair are not pulled enough out of their natural pattern and so when the Thio begins to soften the hair, it does it half baked and you don't get a good curl pattern to form. That said, don't wind the hair was excessive tension as this can cause breakage.

Make sure you blot the hair with kitchen towel right before rinsing off the waving lotion. Blotting prior to rinsing prevents the Thio being pushed back into the hair and helps elevate perm odour. I'd suggest you rinse off the waving lotion for a good few minutes, then stop, blot dry the rods all over with a towel and then continue rinsing again for a further few minutes. The reason why it's a good idea to blot dry the hair after rinsing and then continue rinsing, is that during the rinsing phase, the hair will become flooded with water and there reaches a point whereby any waving lotion still trapped inside the hair cannot flush out. By blotting off that surface water, then continuing rinsing, you flush out any remaining lotion that is trapped in within the hair.

Next (I would allocate time for this in the appointment), after blot drying the hair wrap the hair in a dry towel for 5 minutes to absorb all the surface water, then remove the towel and let the rods air oxidise for a good 30 minutes before neutralising. If you live in a warm climate, it's fine to let your client sit outside (to get some air on the hair) or you can even place them under a hairdryer on a warm low airflow. The mistake many people make (in salons) is rinsing off the waving lotion and then leaving the client at the backwash, blot drying the rods then immediately applying the neutraliser. After waving lotion, the hair is very porous and is holding onto a vast amount of water within the cortex. A perm can only begin to gain it's permanent shape when the disulphide bonds begin to reform with an oxidiser or oxygen. However, if the hair is flooded with water the bonds will not re-connect. The peroxide based neutraliser is designed to start tacking some of the bonds back together, but if you apply this neutraliser onto hair that is still wet, the neutraliser will dilute and be completely ineffective at connected disulphide bonds. This is the number 1 reason why perms fail and go wrong. Because once a perm service is complete, the hair is (again) wet and if some of the bonds have not been reconnected by the neutraliser, the weight of the water will start pulling out the curl pattern immediately. As the hair dries, it begins to turn fluffy and within 24 hours the curl pattern is usually half straight and frizzy. I have to say, Asian hair is so perfect to perm on, you don't get this so much - but all other hair types are notorious for losing curl pattern in neutralising.
If you let the wound hair air oxidise for at least 30 minutes after rinsing off the lotion (and as long as you want if time isn't a constraint), all that moisture within the hair will start to evaporate and the disulphide bonds within the hair will slowly start to re-form. When you apply the neutraliser, the peroxide will then get straight into the cortex and tack together more bonds.

The next tricky stage of a perm is once the service is complete and you have a client with wet permed hair. Newly permed hair is very vulnerable (as the bonds within the hair are still reforming). Ideally, you want to create a curly perm you blot dry and then apply some curl balm and leave to dry naturally. You need to warn clients that perms feel horrible when they are first conducted, as the hair has been completely changed of it's natural shape. Often people feel ridges at their roots and the hair won't move well. This is all to do with the hair going into shock after being opened up and changed. All of this passes over the first week.

I would never recommend trying to round brush blow-dry a new perm (unless you have a client who has had this post-perm style done on many occasions without problems). The best approach with a new perm, is to wind it on setting rollers, put the client under the dryer, brush the hair out and then tell the client to use dry shampoo for the next four days to clean the hair and avoid getting it wet. I try to encourage clients (and these are younger ones with long hair) to set their hair for the first two to three weeks of a perm. After this, the perm washes and wears beautifully.

Tell the client not to use straightening irons for at least 1 month (these will pull out a new perm). Curling tongs are also not ideal, but heated rollers can work well.

But all the above is super safety information. Asian hair will generally perm so well, that if you follow the advice up to the styling stage, you will have no problems. Because Asian hair gets a good perm result, you will likely find the wet curl is good enough to be left to dry naturally. But you still have to warn your client the hair will feel rigid for a few days (if they have never had a perm before).
 
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