Ash colours help

[heather1992]

I have just completed my level 4 at college and this still confuses me can anyone explain please haha....
When taking bleached hair darker you have to prepig to avoid the hair going green when applying ash yet you need a level 10 hair to get grey which is ash??
So if I was to do say a balayage with a brown root blonde ends but the client wanted an ash brown how would I achieve this without it going green?

 

[Benblonde]

Depending how bleached and white the hair is , I usually just opt for a very very warm brown shade, instead of prepigging etc. Plenty of gold mix tone , always stops it from going green or too ashy in my experience. I only pre pig if the hair is exceptionally white with absolutely no tone to it what so ever.
Hair needs to be a level 10 to get grey/ash/silver blonde because it needs to have all of the warmth lifted out of it in order to take the ash tone properly. If you're darkening it however , the reason you prepig is because it's been bleached so there's no warmth left in the hair for the dark colour to cling to and absorb the colour shade correctly, then you end up with a transparent ashy/green colour.
If you're wanting to get ash brown roots with balayage it would depend what the clients hair Is like, is it already blonde and you'll be adding the dark root? In which case I would decide how white it is whether or not I'd use a warm shade to neutralise the green. If there is some tone to it (a bit yellow, or if it's not currently bleached at the root) then I'd use an ash or even a natural /0 tone. Depending on the current colour. Hope this helps x

 

[miss_eve]

Can you use the colour chart numbers to explain which colours you are going for.
When creating an ash colour, it needs to be a clean level 10 I.e no yellow in it, that's why you sometimes need to pre tone with a violet in order to achieve a clean yellow free 10, then you can go in with your ash tone or whatever silver/grey recipe you have.

With regards to the brown root balayage, is this a client you have? Could you give us a little more information as to what her hair is like before you colour uding the colour chart? That way we can get a better idea of how to help you.

But for now if you're darkening 3 levels or more from a 10 then it's advised to pre pig with a warm tone, not necessarily red as you don't want those tones showing through if you're trying to achieve an ash tone.

 

[heather1992]

Depending how bleached and white the hair is , I usually just opt for a very very warm brown shade, instead of prepigging etc. Plenty of gold mix tone , always stops it from going green or too ashy in my experience. I only pre pig if the hair is exceptionally white with absolutely no tone to it what so ever.
Hair needs to be a level 10 to get grey/ash/silver blonde because it needs to have all of the warmth lifted out of it in order to take the ash tone properly. If you're darkening it however , the reason you prepig is because it's been bleached so there's no warmth left in the hair for the dark colour to cling to and absorb the colour shade correctly, then you end up with a transparent ashy/green colour.
If you're wanting to get ash brown roots with balayage it would depend what the clients hair Is like, is it already blonde and you'll be adding the dark root? In which case I would decide how white it is whether or not I'd use a warm shade to neutralise the green. If there is some tone to it (a bit yellow, or if it's not currently bleached at the root) then I'd use an ash or even a natural /0 tone. Depending on the current colour. Hope this helps x

it does thank you. So if the client was white level 10 and wanted an ash brown root fade how would you achieve this without causing any green?

 

[heather1992]

Can you use the colour chart numbers to explain which colours you are going for.
When creating an ash colour, it needs to be a clean level 10 I.e no yellow in it, that's why you sometimes need to pre tone with a violet in order to achieve a clean yellow free 10, then you can go in with your ash tone or whatever silver/grey recipe you have.

With regards to the brown root balayage, is this a client you have? Could you give us a little more information as to what her hair is like before you colour uding the colour chart? That way we can get a better idea of how to help you.

But for now if you're darkening 3 levels or more from a 10 then it's advised to pre pig with a warm tone, not necessarily red as you don't want those tones showing through if you're trying to achieve an ash tone.

I've always went fine with prepigging etc I just strugged with it when people are wanting an ashy brown rather than a warm brown for example if they where white level 10 and wanted an ash brown root fade how would you achieve this without khakiness?

 

[miss_eve]

I've always went fine with prepigging etc I just strugged with it when people are wanting an ashy brown rather than a warm brown for example if they where white level 10 and wanted an ash brown root fade how would you achieve this without khakiness?

As Benblonde says, if theres a little warmth to the level 10 root then you could go in with the desired shade /0 and your desired shade depending on how much warmth you feel you need to avoid that khaki look. It's only if its a clean tone free level 10 would it go khaki. Basically you don't need to pre pig if theres warmth already there. X