Galvanic & High Frequency

[Martin Duffy]

I have been reading a few up-to-date beauty reference books & notice that in a few of them they recommend a different order to the way I was trained, which is admittedly some years ago! The way I was taught was akin to the old Cathiodermie method (which I have also used):

Desincrustation, Iontophoresis, High Frequency, Massage/Mask, Moisturiser.

However, in some books they seem to now suggest leaving the skin free of product after direct high frequency, implying that adding products following this will null the effect of the direct high frequency (presumably they mean the effect of the ozone). I was wondering whether anyone has any further information on this as I'm trying to come to some conclusion about the wisdom of either method!

 

[Terese]

Well Martin, I was taught 07/08 cleanse, Direct HF , exfolliate, masque, massage,tone, moisturiser

I would prefer though to massage and then add masque but when its city and guilds you do it how you are taught!

Which book were you looking at? I will have to dig out my level 3 book and my notes

 

[essentia]

I did my training in the 80's and was taught three ways - one way the same as yours but without the massage, another version was to do direct HF, (no galvanic or massage) mask and another short application of direct HF to improve circulation or just direct HF and leave but I believe this was after a session of sparking was carried out. It really depended on the skin type you were treating.

 

[pure]

Desincrustation, Iontophoresis, High Frequency, Massage/Mask, Moisturiser.

I qualified in electrical (NVQ3) last year and if we were doing a 3 machine facial it would be in the order that you have shown above. I would go with your skincare (Decleor) advice and what the machine manufacturer suggests (if they do!)

Out of interest which books were you reading?

 

[Martin Duffy]

In my ND & HND we were taught both modalities seperate & combined, but it's not the order in which to use the machine's but whether or not to masque/massage before or after the High Frequency if using direct that's bugging me!

I was taught galvanic, then direct HF, then massage/masque, but in one of the books I got out of the library it suggested carrying the massage out after iontophoresis using the same medium to ensure thorough absorption, then masque & finish with direct high frequency, applying only moisturiser after this so as not to disturb the germicidal effect on the skin. I think the book was By the level 3 one by Jane Hiscock, Elaine Stoddart & Jeanine Connor.

 

[essentia]

I think the opposite - that massage besides other things is an extra cleansing tool - releasing blockages, freeing up secretions etc and would not use it after iontophoresis as I think the machine penetrates the skin enough. Like I said I believe it depends on the skin type - if I were using the sparking action or the skin was very congested then I would not follow direct HF with anything afterwards except a light sunblock perhaps.

 

[Martin Duffy]

Agreed that massage has some level of cleansing effect, but then it also speeds up blood transportation, deliverance of oxygen & nutrients to the skin, stimulation of fibroblasts etc all of which would work well with the penetration of actives into the skin. There seems to be both pros & cons of both approaches, hence the quandry!:lol: Of course with indirect HF there's no quandry as it is the massage.

For a less 'personal' facial I've omitted the massage & combined iontophoresis with sonophoresis, which dramatically increases penetration compared to either techniques alone. In this instance I've used direct HF then mask after, as I was originally taught, but I'm now thinking that perhaps the skin is best left after direct HF, with only moisturiser applied.

Whilst looking about for further clarification I note that some (notably Environ) suggest to use only single polarity with iontophoresis & not to reverse it for the final couple of minutes as it "reverses the beneficial effects" - anyone have any thoughts on this?!

 

[Bombalurina]

Whilst looking about for further clarification I note that some (notably Environ) suggest to use only single polarity with iontophoresis & not to reverse it for the final couple of minutes as it "reverses the beneficial effects" - anyone have any thoughts on this?!

Hi Martin,

This would totally depend on the polarity used during Ionto - if their products are ionised positively, you would be using a positive current to penetrate the product...as us human beings are naturally positively charged you wouldn't be upsetting the acid mantle by doing this; therefore, no need to reverse the polarity. You only need to reverse the polarity if you're using negatively ionised products.

With regard to the order of work, I work for a company (you know who, no names to be mentioned!), and our take on these particular treatments would be:
Desincrustation, Massage (if including), Iontophoresis, Direct HF
and moisturise to finish. We would agree that it's best to leave DHF until the end, as it ensures the ozone can be left to work on the skin with minimum disruption from other procedures or products.

However, I'm sure I was taught to do DHF after exfoliation at college! I don't agree with this now, as it seems the wrong way round to me. As for the massage, I feel it warms & soothes the skin after desin, and prepares it to absorb the active ingredients in the ionto phase.

Interesting that there are so many take on the same treatment though, I know of therapists who will do all the electricals first in a facial, and THEN the massage and mask to allow the client to relax....just something else to throw into the melting pot!!!
XXX

 

[weezie]

Bombalurina-I see in order to help the product it penetrate you use the same polarity as the gel as the same ions repel each other. So as a negative charge gel softens the skin with an alkaline reaction you need to reverse the current to restore the acid mantle but with a positive charged gel the acidic reaction does not compromise the skins protection, so you need not reverse the current. Would a positively charged gel be more likely to be used on an oily skin then? Sorry to but in but wanted to recap as I'm not using this currently.

 

[Martin Duffy]

Thanks for that Bombalurina! I'm using positively ionised gels for my iontophoresis, and to be honest it does make sense not to reverse the polarity for the final two minutes, even though that's how I was originally trained! In future I shall only reverse the polarity for iontophoresis in the final two minutes when using negatively ionised gels - just goes to show it's good to revisit your procedures!

The procedure you outline makes sense to me, and I can use ultrasound in place of massage to use sonophoresis & iontophoresis together. It also then means I can include massage still without it interfering with the direct HF - I note that in some books they still suggest mask etc following direct HF as I was taught, although it seems the wisdom of this is debateable!

When I was taught the Cathiodermie method we did all the electrical bits first & finished with the massage to relax the client, which is why I was so vexed when I came across this idea of finishing with direct HF!

 

[Lynne Baker]

I think the book was By the level 3 one by Jane Hiscock, Elaine Stoddart & Jeanine Connor.

Can anyone tell me if this one is still ok to use nowadays? I'm looking at reading up about galvanic etc, and wondering about this particular tome!
Thanks!

 

[Curly Bamboo]

For a less 'personal' facial I've omitted the massage & combined iontophoresis with sonophoresis, which dramatically increases penetration compared to either techniques alone. In this instance I've used direct HF then mask after, as I was originally taught, but I'm now thinking that perhaps the skin is best left after direct HF, with only moisturiser applied.

Whilst looking about for further clarification I note that some (notably Environ) suggest to use only single polarity with iontophoresis & not to reverse it for the final couple of minutes as it "reverses the beneficial effects" - anyone have any thoughts on this?!

I was in limbo about the order or mask and DHF too after reading some books. What I have tried so far which seems to work is massage, Ionto using a mask as a medium, do not remove mask (a drying mask would not work, i went for a hydrating one), put a gauze on face, DHF, remove mask, moisturise.

If I was doing desincrustation I would reverse polarity for 2 mins. My understanding is that it normalises the skin's pH level ?? is this right?