Hey all.
So I'm about to finish hair school and color is by far my favorite part, even before I enrolled I was learning theory. I've had no issues with grey coverage in the dozens of models we've had, even on really light levels. However, before I was in school I ran into a situation like three times and the issue is I'm not sure I'd know exactly what to do right now, either.
Before I entered school I had already messed around with both my own hair and other people's color-wise. Something I was totally ignorant about (the need to learn hadn't really been there except for a single occasion which I'll mention later on) was grey coverage. As we started getting clients with lots of greys I kind of got the hang of it for "normal" scenarios - so far, so good. I also had done tons of e-learning that Wella offers online, and it's a brand I like (wild diversity of options in my opinion, allows for all types of creativity).
So, I had tried to cover grays on my stepdad, and it only worked once after I had already done other stuff on his hair with bleach (even then, some greys still held on!). Looking back, when I solely wanted to cover the gray I did it all wrong, but my issue is that even now I'm not sure I'd be able to do it - problem is he has baby fine hair where it still has color, but in places in which it's all grey (from right above ears to nape) it's *coarse* and I mean coarse, unlike anything I've seen in any model or client. Even seen from afar it's a completely different texture, like a guitar string. Using Wella's system in Koleston Perfect, I would do 77/0 or 77/02 (dislikes warm tones) with maybe 9% peroxide (just to secure coverage, or even maybe 6% and 9% 50/50) on these areas, but for the areas in which he has pigment (fine strands) the appropriate choice would definitely be 7/ + 7/1 with 6% (1/3 of the undertone to slightly counteract copper tones since his hair is what I'd describe as a 6 1/2 with like 50% grey, so there would be some underlying pigment exposed). People have told me XX/ in Wella on fine hair will look two levels darker and I can see why that would happen. Would I need to do two formulas (something my teacher always discouraged me to do but I see no problem with)? If so, how would I know exactly how to "transition" these areas and make sure the color would come out homogenous? Is pre-softening effective in cases in which there's a brutal difference in texture, and if so, would I still use the 77/0 after pre-softening? How would you go about this?
Thanks in advance!
So I'm about to finish hair school and color is by far my favorite part, even before I enrolled I was learning theory. I've had no issues with grey coverage in the dozens of models we've had, even on really light levels. However, before I was in school I ran into a situation like three times and the issue is I'm not sure I'd know exactly what to do right now, either.
Before I entered school I had already messed around with both my own hair and other people's color-wise. Something I was totally ignorant about (the need to learn hadn't really been there except for a single occasion which I'll mention later on) was grey coverage. As we started getting clients with lots of greys I kind of got the hang of it for "normal" scenarios - so far, so good. I also had done tons of e-learning that Wella offers online, and it's a brand I like (wild diversity of options in my opinion, allows for all types of creativity).
So, I had tried to cover grays on my stepdad, and it only worked once after I had already done other stuff on his hair with bleach (even then, some greys still held on!). Looking back, when I solely wanted to cover the gray I did it all wrong, but my issue is that even now I'm not sure I'd be able to do it - problem is he has baby fine hair where it still has color, but in places in which it's all grey (from right above ears to nape) it's *coarse* and I mean coarse, unlike anything I've seen in any model or client. Even seen from afar it's a completely different texture, like a guitar string. Using Wella's system in Koleston Perfect, I would do 77/0 or 77/02 (dislikes warm tones) with maybe 9% peroxide (just to secure coverage, or even maybe 6% and 9% 50/50) on these areas, but for the areas in which he has pigment (fine strands) the appropriate choice would definitely be 7/ + 7/1 with 6% (1/3 of the undertone to slightly counteract copper tones since his hair is what I'd describe as a 6 1/2 with like 50% grey, so there would be some underlying pigment exposed). People have told me XX/ in Wella on fine hair will look two levels darker and I can see why that would happen. Would I need to do two formulas (something my teacher always discouraged me to do but I see no problem with)? If so, how would I know exactly how to "transition" these areas and make sure the color would come out homogenous? Is pre-softening effective in cases in which there's a brutal difference in texture, and if so, would I still use the 77/0 after pre-softening? How would you go about this?
Thanks in advance!