Please help me solve this mystery

[TTG]

Hello,

I am in desperate need of a professional opinion and hope someone here can help! I have naturally light brown hair and get ash blonde highlights every 5-6 weeks. The stylist lets the foil highlights sit under heat for about 15 minutes, then rinses them out ... and here is where the mystery begins. The stylist applies a "gloss" to my roots, pulls it through to the ends, and then lets it sit for 15 minutes before rinsing it out. I strongly suspect that this "gloss" is a violet toner. Whatever it is, the end result is that instead of having light brown hair with ash blonde highlights, I end up with blonde hair that looks like single-process haircolor (which I hate).

Recently I went two months in between appointments to let more of my natural color come through. I got exactly 10 foil highlights on my crown last night, and the result is attached. This was supposed to end up looking like Jennifer Aniston's hair - light brown hair with blonde highlights. In reality, it ended up looking like all-one-color blonde hair, yet again -- which obviously defeats the purpose of the highlights! :|

So...my questions are: (1) What exactly are they using on my hair, and is it damaging it? and (2) Is it possible to achieve ash-blonde highlights without a toner? If so, how? My sister is a hairdresser in another state and she suggested 40-volume bleach highlights, no toner. Would that work?



Any advice would be very much appreciated!
-TTG

 

[adamlea87]

Does this colour also lighten your natural hair colour?

It sounds like they are using a technique called breaking/bumping the base. It is where a permanent colour (or strong demi-permanent) is applied for about 10 minutes to slightly lighten the hair about one shade, in order to soften the contrast between the natural hair and the highlights.

It is not a very popular technique here in the UK, but I think a lot of stylists use it in the US.

If you want the highlight to have an ashy tone, then generally they would need a toner or gloss, however this shouldn't affect the natural hair in between and usually takes about 5 minutes, rather than 15.

I wouldn't recommend asking bleach and 40 volume. If you are happy with the actual tone of the highlights, you could just get lowlights of your natural colour to break up the solidness and make it look more highlighted again.
=)

 

[HairbyCass]

Does your regrowth come through with a blunt line front where the previous colour starts?

I think the thing to say to your stylist is "it looks like one colour, and in want light bits and dark bits (being your natural hair).

Can you find us a picture with your regrowth showing? I definitely think 40vol and bleach is WAY to strong. 30vol max.


I would normally foil into the hair, leaving some of the natural out. If it needs a toner, I would use a semi or Demi, which won't budge the natural, and only tone the lightened hair.

5-6 weeks is very frequent to be having foils. If you were having just a foils service, you should be able to go 8weeks.

 

[TTG]

Yes - they are "breaking the base"! I have heard them use that term but didn't remember it until you said it. This would also explain why I'm in there so often, as HairbyCass mentioned.

So...what should I ask them to use that will (1) ensure that my highlights come out blonde, not gold or orange, and (2) does NOT change the color of my base???

Also, any advice for how to present this to my stylist? I don't want to seem like I'm telling her how to do her job, but I have been complaining about this "gloss" for many months and have been repeatedly assured that it's not coloring or harming my hair (neither of which seems to be true), and they keep insisting upon it.

Thanks!

 

[rac__hel]

What brand are they using? Is it redken?
Do they take thick weaves/sections when doing the foils
I would say they are doing there foils too thick giving you the all over blonde look

Next time ask for natural highlights you still want to see at least half your natural hair colour in between

Redkens gloss(toner) does stay on for 15-20mins I think they are using this.

You do need to have a toner if you want a 'ash' as natural hair throws red, copper or yellow when lifted with bleach

And do not use 40vol!!
If anything use a lower peroxide and make sure they leave it on for 50 mins NO HEAT as instead of lifting it slowly they are blasting the cuticle and exposing so much yellow meaning it's so much less natural

 

[rac__hel]

Ask them if it's not colouring or harming your hair then why do they use it?

 

[TTG]

No, the foils are very thin and we don't do many - maybe 10 over my entire crown. It's definitely the "gloss" they're putting on after the highlights that's causing the roots to get so light. Surely they can do something to make sure my highlights are not gold/orange but the rest of my hair stays its natural color??

 

[adamlea87]

No, the foils are very thin and we don't do many - maybe 10 over my entire crown. It's definitely the "gloss" they're putting on after the highlights that's causing the roots to get so light. Surely they can do something to make sure my highlights are not gold/orange but the rest of my hair stays its natural color??

Yes the salon would need still need to use a gloss (also called toner), but they would use a more gentle/ weaker product which is NOT strong enough to lighten your natural haircolour, only to tone the highlights.

To be honest, it sounds like you have explained to the colourist what you want many times, and you don't seem to be getting it. It could be time to find a different colourist - why not go for a consultation at another salon, they are usually complimentary.

Good luck! =)

 

[Nearlyme]

I don't see why they are bleaching and toning when you only look to be a base 7? An ash highlift, left on for full development time (normally 55mins) should be enough. We are all far to eager to reach for the bleach

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[rac__hel]

The picture doesn't look like fine highlights.
Is she placingthe foils like the first picture or the second


Because if it's like the second picture it will look very thick foils even if they are fine they are placing them on your parting leaving hardly any natural showing

 

[HairbyCass]

10 foils doesn't seem like much, definitely not enough to get you that light all over.

If I was doing a part line of foils (literally over the parting from the hair line to under the crown) I would probably use 20 foils, and it still wouldn't look like that - there'd still be natural in between.

Perhaps ask for a half head of foils? Maybe they're misunderstanding how light you want to be and using the incorrect procedure to get there. Also, ask for some low lights, to break up the solidness of the colour, and introduce some of your natural back into.

As someone said before - it sounds like you have explained very well what you want. All of us in this thread understand what you want and how to achieve it, perhaps it is time to find a new hairdresser. My suggestion if this is the route you're thinking of going down, is to ask one of your friends, who's hair you like, or who seems happy with their hair where they go.

It really annoys me when I see a client who is so clear on what they want and they're hairdresser can't get it right. It's not that hard, particularly in your case.

All the best
X

 

[adamlea87]

I don't see why they are bleaching and toning when you only look to be a base 7? An ash highlift, left on for full development time (normally 55mins) should be enough. We are all far to eager to reach for the bleach

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Yeah but she is actually a base 3, it's just the 'gloss' making it look so light ;p

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[TTG]

Thanks so much, everyone! I appreciate your time and the thoroughness of your answers. None of you happen to be in NYC, do you???

 

[Nearlyme]

Yeah but she is actually a base 3, it's just the 'gloss' making it look so light ;p

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I cant see where it says she is a base three? She says its light brown? Which would imply a 6 or 7 x

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[mm29]

Yeah but she is actually a base 3, it's just the 'gloss' making it look so light ;p

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No way is that client a base 3

 

[Nearlyme]

No way is that client a base 3

Exactly. It looks a 6 or 7 to me and the reason it has gone like that is because it is overloaded. They are not making the effort to pick of roughly the same pieces.
You need to ask them to add some natural base back through and pick of more defined piecesm also ask for a tint with an ash base. Sounds to me like they are rushing your hair. I NEVER put bleach under heat. You are paying for their time dont let them see you as "that client who wont mind being rushed whilst charged the same"

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[adamlea87]

Sorry I was joking about how much they have lightened her hair lol x

 

[mm29]

Sorry I was joking about how much they have lightened her hair lol x

Oh I thought it was odd