7.1 + 7.0 very warm

[piersstanaway]

hi
I just started using vitality Fascinelle and did 3/4 7.1 + 1/4 7.0 + 20vol on approx 50% grey and natural base of a 6.
Any ideas why my colour was soo warm? It covered grey well but too much warmth!

 

[byKaty]

Probably not right tone to control the warmth on a level 7. Cams97 is very good for advice.

 

[piersstanaway]

Probably not right tone to control the warmth on a level 7. Cams97 is very good for advice.

Im pretty sure underlying pigment of a 7 is orange/yellow therefor blue/ash will counteract that!

 

[AcidPerm]

I don't know that product line (Italian?) but in some ranges, the /1 tones is blue/grey and a cool tone but not enough pigment to actually neutralise yellow/orange.

Do you have any training info. for that brand rather than just a colour chart?
Does the range have something like a pearl /8 tone? I would try this next time.

 

[adamlea87]

Not sure about how this line works, but if they have a 10vol that gives coverage this would be good choice because 20 vol is probably exposing too much warmth, when you only need one level of lift.

If not I would try making 1/2 the formula neutral base, to make the colour more opaque and subdue the warmth especially if the colour is lifting the undercoat more than you need.

A level 6 with 20vol can lift to anywhere from a yellow to an orange undertone with varing degress of intensity, so you might need more of a double ash shade or mixtones if they have them.

When I have had situations like this with the colour lifting warmer than expected, running a ash glaze over at the backwash has saved my life!

Good luck!

 

[Grace_Hair]

I don't know that product line (Italian?) but in some ranges, the /1 tones is blue/grey and a cool tone but not enough pigment to actually neutralise yellow/orange.

Do you have any training info. for that brand rather than just a colour chart?
Does the range have something like a pearl /8 tone? I would try this next time.

Can you explain /1 not having enough pigment to neutralise?

What's the point in having something that isn't strong enough to neutralise?

 

[byKaty]

Im pretty sure underlying pigment of a 7 is orange/yellow therefor blue/ash will counteract that!

Well with wella ash doesn't neutralise so blue or violet required. Don't know the tonal values of the range you are using as not familiar with it.

 

[piersstanaway]

Not sure about how this line works, but if they have a 10vol that gives coverage this would be good choice because 20 vol is probably exposing too much warmth, when you only need one level of lift.

If not I would try making 1/2 the formula neutral base, to make the colour more opaque and subdue the warmth especially if the colour is lifting the undercoat more than you need.

A level 6 with 20vol can lift to anywhere from a yellow to an orange undertone with varing degress of intensity, so you might need more of a double ash shade or mixtones if they have them.

When I have had situations like this with the colour lifting warmer than expected, running a ash glaze over at the backwash has saved my life!

Good luck!

Thanks for the advice, there is an ash corrector in the range but im a bit unsure how much id use and is it safe when covering grey to add tgis to the mix??

 

[ladywatts]

I would have used 1/2 and 1/2 of your colours, due to 50% grey... You need more base to cover grey.

 

[piersstanaway]

Grey coverage wasnt the problem it was the brassiness. Thanks anyway