Bleach & 12% or 40vol on scalp. Would you?

[AcidPerm]

Extract from recent article in Modern Salon magazine...

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Marcus Byerly is one of MODERN’s new fave artists. Based at Studio 135 in Knoxville, Tennessee, Byerly is a talented colorist who classifies himself as a fine artist and photographer “So color theory comes naturally for me.” On his instagram page @marcusbyerly he shares tips, info and formulas. We kind of stumbled upon him and had to repost his amazing “Clients be like I still see yellow” image. (It is our most popular post to date with more than 3600 “likes” and 590 comments in less than 12 hours!) But digging deeper, we found that Byerly has much more to share.

http://media.modernsalon.com/images/marcusthumbweb.JPG


MODERN contacted Byerly to get the HOW TO for one of his strongest metallic finishes (which he follows with great tips):

Client is a natural level 7. Zone 1 formula: Redken Flash Lift and 30 volume
Zone 2/3: Flash Lift and 40 volume.
Process at room temperature for 45 minutes.
Rinse and shampoo with Redken Blonde Idol.
Dry hair 80% and tone with Redken Shades EQ gloss: 1 oz 09t and 1 oz processing solution. No clear. Straight up.
Process for the max 20 minutes.
Rinse and condition with Kenra Nourishing Masque.
Dry the hair completely.

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Is it really necessary to use bleach & 12% to get Platinum hair? I've never used Redken so maybe this is normal?

I've also watched a recent YouTube video by Brian Haire (FreeSalonEducation.com) saying that he happily uses 12%

Is this just a Stateside thing or is it still quite common to use 12%, say with certain colour houses?

I'm genuinely interested in other professional's points of view.

 

[ColourGirly]

The first pic is almost see through.

It's different in the states, they are licensed so each to their own. In the UK the standard of hairdressing is lower so this could end up in a disaster. If she/he chooses to do that it's their choice, their license at stake.

You can't achieve that see through effect without over developing or using a high peroxide, you put 'low and slow 6%' on that regrowth and you certainly would be seeing yellow in contrast!

The second pic looks achievable without breaking the rules.

 

[stewie16]

No not bleach on scalp or foils. Only use 12 for highlights. I use bleach + 6% and it lifts up lovely! I can't think of how many people have already said low and slow on here lol

 

[adamlea87]

He only used 40vol on zones 2&3, I feel that he could have achieved the same as effect with a virgin application of the lightener on the cold shaft.

I doubt it is normal in for redken to be used in this way, I have heard of tests where the redken labs have tested the diffence in the tensile strength of hair after lifting with lightener 20-30vol vs 30-40vol and unsuprisingly the hair treated 40vol is much more compromised.

When I lift to platinium I don't lift the hair past very pale yellow, to maintain the strength of the hair and for more even and durable toning. On one hand hair is just 'dead' protein cells (if you want to remove every trace of yellow pigment), on the other I don't think it was nessisary to use 40vol for this application. But for balayage and freehand I think higher volume are more acceptable.

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[adamlea87]

On the topic does anyone know where you can get 130vol in the UK?

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[ColourGirly]

On the topic does anyone know where you can get 130vol in the UK?

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Did you spy guy tangs 130vol 'boosters'?

 

[kimi1101]

Guy Tang uses bleach and 40! Seems v common over there. No thanks for me. Certainly not on a virgin level 7

 

[adamlea87]

I certainly did, but I just want it for testing.

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[Amberjox]

Guy Tang uses bleach and 40! Seems v common over there. No thanks for me. Certainly not on a virgin level 7

I noticed that! Whats a booster?? Please tell me the 130vol was bought to be diluted to any strength you like because i really dont get it?? Xx

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[adamlea87]

I noticed that! Whats a booster?? Please tell me the 130vol was bought to be diluted to any strength you like because i really dont get it?? Xx

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Yes it is supposed to be diluted, this can only be accurately done with a hydrometer and distilled water, however some colourists add a 'spash' in their balayage to give it a 'kick' lol.

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[LAPirate]

You may be able to get a small amount of high volume h202 from a chemist.. It's sometimes used for cleaning and healing certain types of wounds..

 

[persianista]

I use flash lift, and it's pretty fierce. I often have to use it with 10 vol as it lifts so fast.
On the instructions, you CAN use it with 40 vol.
I'll confess that I've tried it, on a client with dark, stubborn hair, who wanted platinum highlights. Worked a treat. No breakage either.
It's a pretty sophisticated bleach though, and there's no way I'd attempt it on scalp, or with a cheap, bog standard bleach.

 

[adamlea87]

I think flash lift is the equivalent of infinite platine? To be fair coarse hair will be more able to withstand 40 vol, where as on fine hair it will act more like 50/60vol.

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[AcidPerm]

It's different in the states, they are licensed so each to their own. In the UK the standard of hairdressing is lower so this could end up in a disaster. If she/he chooses to do that it's their choice, their license at stale.

What makes you say that? Is it because they have to do a minimum number of hours practical in the US?

I've noticed that generally speaking US geeks seem less knowledgable about the chemistry side of colouring, although this is just anecdotal evidence from reading US based blogs and forums.

Any Stateside geeks available to offer an opinion please?

 

[ColourGirly]

It's like their rules on formaldehyde it isn't banned over there it is in the EU.

I was told it's kind of like 'here have the chemicals, we trust you, if it goes wrong it's your fault'

I may be wrong but a license seems to be just that - a license to you use what you want.

In the UK you can even buy this stuff!

 

[ColourGirly]

I've been licensed in arizona for about 3 years now and I can say without a doubt that the theory side of out education is lacking. I've been in salons where the entire shop will use 40 vol and bleach on scalp with sweet and low to "make sure it doesn't burn them". Just as a whole the cosmetology field here isn't really classified as a profession. The vast majority of the population views it as more of a hobby, or something you do as a last resort. Just for instance, if anyone in the uk were to use another brands developer it would invalidate their insurance, no? In most salons here the stylists aren't even aware their shop has insurance! So they're free to do as they please intermixing chemicals. Most states don't have required continuing education either, I have friends who have been doing hair for almost a decade and haven't taken any classes outside of what corporate requires they do (the basics of a color line when they change, ect). So yes, I would say most cosmetologists in the US are totally lacking in education, especially theory education.

Not much different from here then lol!

I think you just have access to more chemicals.

 

[adamlea87]

Isn't formaldehyde permitted within certain levels in the UK? Im sure it is widely used as a preservative.

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[Harmony14]

I live in Phoenix, AZ and unfortunately it seems that the bare minimum is widely accepted here. I am an instructor and the chemistry behind it all is "taught" in 3 hours.

Continuing education is not required unless you teach other than that a stylist may choose not to take extra classes. We can also choose any line we want without being specifically trained in it.

 

[ColourGirly]

Isn't formaldehyde permitted within certain levels in the UK? Im sure it is widely used as a preservative.

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0.02g I think in keratin systems.

 

[ColourBoy]

people are so weary of 12% and I am not by any means thinking I'm right but isn't it the level of lift you achieve that causes the damage, not the % used? for example, lifting a 4 to a 10 with 3% and it taking 2 hours, would surely damage the hair equally as much as doing the same with 12% but for 20 minutes? as I've mentioned on a previous post I've got a client who's hair I've processed twice with 12%. admittedly I wouldn't do it but before I had been doing hairdressing for long and wasn't clued up, I wasn't worried about the affects of 12%, and believe it or not her hair was absolutely fine. She's never had a problem with it