Requesting All Opinions on High Lift Hair Dye (No Bleach)

[justchopitoff]

Hey everyone! This has been eating at me for a while, and it's honestly the only reason I joined this forum. However, I keep getting very different opinions on high lift color, and I thought this would be the perfect place to see what others have experienced first hand. (Specifically, high lift processing on a dark base using developer only.) Please feel free to share your experiences!

High Lift Claims: So, we all know high lift hair colors are typically designed for virgin hair levels 5/6 and above. The general consensus is that high lift dyes can only lift up to about 3 levels max and lead to a lot of warmth. However, some professionals claim that Wella's Koleston Perfect series can do more than that. Using the 40vol developer specifically made for this line, "Welloxon," a person could supposedly reach up to 4 or 5 levels of lift. Additionally, the use of "Special Mix" colors could be strong enough to counteract any unwanted undertones without adding any depth.

This obviously isn't a common lifting method on dark hair, but as you'll see below, it has been done before. I've attached links to videos of professional hair colorists claiming they can lift a dark base without bleach. I'm curious as to what the people on this website think. I personally believe that the aftermath would lead to so much warmth while fading, it wouldn't even matter if it could lift to the ideal color. However, I have more and more requests for "no bleach" lifting lately. I am willing to hear others out!

Links:

1. 
   
   (Lifting from Level 3 to Level 6 only using Level 6 color formulations "without bleach or brass results" - not even utilizing a high lift shade! Lauren also comments under the video that she didn't account for the Level 12 High Lifts at 40vol developer. She claims lifting 4 to 5 levels is possible in this instance.
   
   
2. 
   
   (Lifting what looks like a Level 4 to a Level 7. Christel used 12/89, 12/11, 12/22, and 12/81 which led to a medium blonde color. I feel like 12/89 and 12/11 wouldn't do much in this case. Rather, using 12/61 would have neutralized the warmer tones, and using 40vol developer throughout would have helped lift it a bit more. I actually like the end result color here though, regardless if it was intentional or not.)
   
   
3. 
   
   (Aubrey claims his client is a Level 6, but her hair color looks like a Level 3/4 to me. He uses 12/81 and 12/61 with 40vol developer, and it lifts to about a Level 8 auburn color. I think mixing 12/22 would have helped neutralize the copper tones, along with the /28 Special Mix that the first video mentions. Despite the warm color, I will admit the end result is a lot lighter than I expected.)
   
   
4. 
   
   (Lifting from a Level 5 to a Level 8/9. Angelo suggests three parts 12/22, two parts 12/81, and one part 12/61, using the same 1:2 color to developer ratio as suggested at 40vol. There's no client result here, but this seems to be the most rational formulation for lifting and cutting through warm undertones in those levels. Additionally, Lauren's advice from the first video to use /28 seems like it would be a good suggestion.)

Using the last video's example scenario, let's say we did that. We try taking a level 5 (virgin hair) to a cool level 7/8, only using a high lift color mix with 40vol Welloxon at a 1:2 ratio. Let's assume we're battling through the same basic unwanted undertones you get through bleaching. So, using basic color theory, you would have to counteract the level 3 & 4 Red, the level 5 Red Orange, the level 6 & 7 Orange, and level 8 Orange Yellow.

Based off their advice, it looks like using a mix of 12/22, 12/61, and 12/81 would handle the unwanted warmth. Additionally, something like Special Mix /28 could cut any extra reds & brassiness.

What do you think? Would this be worth the attempt? Has anyone utilized this method on anything darker than a level 5? Is it honestly any less damaging than just using bleach (considering the Welloxon developer percentage is so high)?

Thanks for reading!

P.S. Some people use foils while others don't. I assume the difference would be in the degree of lift, what do you prefer?

 

[ronray]

Hey everyone! This has been eating at me for a while, and it's honestly the only reason I joined this forum. However, I keep getting very different opinions on high lift color, and I thought this would be the perfect place to see what the consensus is. I personally have never done a high lift process on a dark base using developer only, so I want to hear about your experiences!

High Lift Claims: So, we all know high lift hair colors are typically designed for virgin hair levels 5/6 and above. The general consensus is that high lift dyes can only lift up to about 3 levels max and lead to a lot of warmth. However, some professionals claim that Wella's Koleston Perfect series can do more than that. Using the 40vol developer specifically made for this line, "Welloxon," a person could supposedly reach up to 4 or 5 levels of lift. Additionally, the use of "Special Mix" colors could be strong enough to counteract any unwanted undertones without adding any depth.

This obviously isn't a common lifting method on dark hair, but as you'll see below, it has been done before. I've attached links to videos of professional hair colorists claiming they can lift a dark base without bleach. I'm curious as to what the people on this website think. I personally believe that the aftermath would lead to so much warmth while fading, it wouldn't even matter if it could lift to the ideal color. However, I have more and more requests for "no bleach" lifting lately. I am willing to hear others out!

Links:

1. 
   
   (Lifting from Level 3 to Level 6 only using Level 6 color formulations "without bleach or brass results" - not even utilizing a high lift shade! Lauren also comments under the video that she didn't account for the Level 12 High Lifts at 40vol developer. She claims lifting 4 to 5 levels is possible in this instance.
   
   
2. 
   
   (Lifting what looks like a Level 4 to a Level 7. Christel used 12/89, 12/11, 12/22, and 12/81 which led to a medium blonde color. I feel like 12/89 and 12/11 wouldn't do much in this case. Rather, using 12/61 would have neutralized the warmer tones, and using 40vol developer throughout would have helped lift it a bit more. I actually like the end result color here though, regardless if it was intentional or not.)
   
   
3. 
   (Aubrey claims his client is a Level 6, but her hair color looks like a Level 3/4 to me. He uses 12/81 and 12/61 with 40vol developer, and it lifts to about a Level 8 auburn color. I think mixing 12/22 would have helped neutralize the copper tones, along with the /28 Special Mix that the first video mentions. Despite the warm color, I will admit the end result is a lot lighter than I expected.)
   
   
4. 
   
   (Lifting from a Level 5 to a Level 8/9. Angelo suggests three parts 12/22, two parts 12/81, and one part 12/61, using the same 1:2 color to developer ratio as suggested at 40vol. There's no client result here, but this seems to be the most rational formulation for lifting and cutting through warm undertones in those levels. Additionally, Lauren's advice from the first video to use /28 seems like it would be a good suggestion.)

Using the last video's example scenario, let's say we did that. We try taking a level 5 (virgin hair) to a cool level 7/8, only using a high lift color mix with 40vol Welloxon at a 1:2 ratio. Let's assume we're battling through the same basic unwanted undertones you get through bleaching. So, using basic color theory, you would have to counteract the level 3 & 4 Red, the level 5 Red Orange, the level 6 & 7 Orange, and level 8 Orange Yellow.

Based off their advice, it looks like using a mix of 12/22, 12/61, and 12/81 would handle the unwanted warmth. Additionally, something like Special Mix /28 could cut any extra reds & brassiness.

What do you think? Would this be worth the attempt? Is it any less damaging than just using bleach (considering the Welloxon developer percentage is so high).

Thanks for reading!

P.S. Some people use foils while others don't. I assume the difference would be in the degree of lift, what do you prefer?

I have used a few highlift brands and have found wells to give the best results. I'm not familiar with 12/22 and I do see the benefits of adding in 0/28 to your formula and have done myself in the past. Also the 0/81 was a nice one to drop in too discontinued in the UK now .

If I use highlift on anything lower than a natural level 7 then I do not expect to get a clean level 10 result. I am naturally a level 6 and 12/89+12/81 with 12% for 60 mins leaves me with what I'd compare to a 9/73 in Kolesten.
My mother is a level 4 and will lift to around an 8/73 with the above formula.
It is very rare that I have found highlift to live up to its promises.
For my ex employer who was predominantly a level 8. A 7 on the crown we used 12/16 +12% and that gave a nice clean colour, but always dull around the crown area. Later on we started adding the odd bleach foil with 1.9% and the bleach was always that much brighter and cleaner.
One of my previous clients used to be around a level 5. We used to do 12/0 + 12/1 + 12% which gave a very golden level 9 I'd say. She fancied a colour change and wanted an icy white blonde one day. Me thinking that we didn't have that far to go in terms of lightness dove straight in with my trusty old blondor bleach + 4% after 40 mins - rinsed and the hair was still only a level 8???? And very warm. Took a second round of bleach to get us to a level 10. That always baffled me how the hair went darker and warmer after a round of bleach. It makes me wonder if the highlift didn't actually lift as much as we thought it used to .... Or maybe that it lifts differently to bleach.
I'm not sure any of this has been helpful but was trying to give you some insight to my experiences with highlift.

 

[justchopitoff]

I have used a few highlift brands and have found wells to give the best results. I'm not familiar with 12/22 and I do see the benefits of adding in 0/28 to your formula and have done myself in the past. Also the 0/81 was a nice one to drop in too discontinued in the UK now .

If I use highlift on anything lower than a natural level 7 then I do not expect to get a clean level 10 result. I am naturally a level 6 and 12/89+12/81 with 12% for 60 mins leaves me with what I'd compare to a 9/73 in Kolesten.
My mother is a level 4 and will lift to around an 8/73 with the above formula.
It is very rare that I have found highlift to live up to its promises.
For my ex employer who was predominantly a level 8. A 7 on the crown we used 12/16 +12% and that gave a nice clean colour, but always dull around the crown area. Later on we started adding the odd bleach foil with 1.9% and the bleach was always that much brighter and cleaner.
One of my previous clients used to be around a level 5. We used to do 12/0 + 12/1 + 12% which gave a very golden level 9 I'd say. She fancied a colour change and wanted an icy white blonde one day. Me thinking that we didn't have that far to go in terms of lightness dove straight in with my trusty old blondor bleach + 4% after 40 mins - rinsed and the hair was still only a level 8???? And very warm. Took a second round of bleach to get us to a level 10. That always baffled me how the hair went darker and warmer after a round of bleach. It makes me wonder if the highlift didn't actually lift as much as we thought it used to .... Or maybe that it lifts differently to bleach.
I'm not sure any of this has been helpful but was trying to give you some insight to my experiences with highlift.

Hey! Thank you so much for responding in such detail! I appreciate you sharing your results with multiple hair levels and formulations, that's extremely helpful!

Wow, your last example has me thrown. Going from a Level 9 to a warm Level 8, after bleaching? That's a big part of my reluctance with all of this - the aftermath. Something that should have been a light lifting process (Level 8 to Level 10) suddenly becomes two different bleaching treatments. I know I can't just assume that will happen with every client, but it's all the ambiguity that gets me. It's one thing to personalize color formulations on a case by case basis, but it's another thing to worry about unforeseeable reactions to future lifting treatments. Maybe high lifts do lift differently.

Also, if the desired color and lift are reached without bleach, it's basically impossible to get significant results without 12% Welloxon. So, I would still be using 40vol developer for 60mins. How much less damaging can that really be? Again, let's say we have a virgin Level 5 going to Level 8. If I used a mix of lower level developer and bleach for less time (with the aid of Olaplex) I could get the desired results, albeit cooler and more controlled. (With less damage, even?)

One potential advantage of high lifts & developer might be the limit on how light hair can go. In theory, this process should have a cap on the hair's lift, right? Since high lifts can only lighten and deposit so much, you're less likely to over-process and get hot roots. But based off other responses on this site (including yours), it seems like high lift lacks the brightness and clarity of good old fashioned lightening methods with foils. Personally, with the strength of 40vol, I think you'd still have to follow basic procedure of checking strands every 10 minutes and leaving roots last.

If you don't mind my asking, I'm curious about two things:

1. After using high lifts, have you noticed a difference in the way the color fades? Specifically, does high lift color fade warmer than hair that was bleached & toned?

2. Do you notice any really difference in the health and integrity of the hair, compared to other lightening treatments?

Please don't feel obligated to respond, I'm just throwing this out there. However, any advice would be appreciated, thank you for your earlier comment!

 

[ronray]

Hey! Thank you so much for responding in such detail! I appreciate you sharing your results with multiple hair levels and formulations, that's extremely helpful!

Wow, your last example has me thrown. Going from a Level 9 to a warm Level 8, after bleaching? That's a big part of my reluctance with all of this - the aftermath. Something that should have been a light lifting process (Level 8 to Level 10) suddenly becomes two different bleaching treatments. I know I can't just assume that will happen with every client, but it's all the ambiguity that gets me. It's one thing to personalize color formulations on a case by case basis, but it's another thing to worry about unforeseeable reactions to future lifting treatments. Maybe high lifts do lift differently.

Also, if the desired color and lift are reached without bleach, it's basically impossible to get significant results without 12% Welloxon. So, I would still be using 40vol developer for 60mins. How much less damaging can that really be? Again, let's say we have a virgin Level 5 going to Level 8. If I used a mix of lower level developer and bleach for less time (with the aid of Olaplex) I could get the desired results, albeit cooler and more controlled. (With less damage, even?)

One potential advantage of high lifts & developer might be the limit on how light hair can go. In theory, this process should have a cap on the hair's lift, right? Since high lifts can only lighten and deposit so much, you're less likely to over-process and get hot roots. But based off other responses on this site (including yours), it seems like high lift lacks the brightness and clarity of good old fashioned lightening methods with foils. Personally, with the strength of 40vol, I think you'd still have to follow basic procedure of checking strands every 10 minutes and leaving roots last.

If you don't mind my asking, I'm curious about two things:

1. After using high lifts, have you noticed a difference in the way the color fades? Specifically, does high lift color fade warmer than hair that was bleached & toned?

2. Do you notice any really difference in the health and integrity of the hair, compared to other lightening treatments?

Please don't feel obligated to respond, I'm just throwing this out there. However, any advice would be appreciated, thank you for your earlier comment!

Yeah the situation with the double bleached really made me think differently about highlift. I didn't understand it and still don't really .
1) So with highlift I'd say the colour definitely fades because after all it tone that fades, it definitely leaves a warmer duller result when it fades. I used to tone the rest occasionally for my regular root highlift clients or if we found it had lost its brightness over time , I'd us 10/0 + 12% for 10 mins or so just to buff the ends.
2) I personally think that leaving the hair in state of high alkalinity for 60mins has more impact on the integrity of the hair than lower alkalinity for lesser time. I was taught that highlift was gentler until I did my own research and experiments and actually discovered the opposite?
For example, bleaching over bleach can be risky .... But can be done safely if you know what you're doing..... Have you ever bleached over highlift? .... the hair definitely doesn't like it .
It does have it benefits like one of my clients is allergic to bleach..... but she can have highlift with 40vol and no problems I have to formulate hard for her hair to get the best results. Another scenario is darker hair that wants a warmer colour. If you're working with a natural base, and are doing something like a few foils around the hairline or face framing pieces to brighten it up then this is perfect if you're wanting that sunkissed look. Another scenario where I use highlift is for multi toned blonde on darker hair. So if for example client who's a level 6 or a 5 wants a multi toned blonde. I'd more than likely opt for a fine slice of highlift with either 30 or 40 vol and alternate it with a bleach highlight. Even if you use a toner afterwards you still have a multi toned look. So I wouldn't say never use high lift but I'd say be selective about when or how you use it.

 

[justchopitoff]

Lol that makes two of us! Thanks for being transparent about it, this is definitely out of my comfort zone. Your comments have been extremely useful! I envy your knowledge and personal experience with high lift techniques, and I really appreciate the guidance!

I'm gonna keep that 10/0 + 12% for 10mins tip in my back pocket, thank you for sharing! Before this exchange, I was only considering high lifts for very simple stuff, like "ok level 7/8 base breaker," etc. So, a full head application on anything darker felt so intimidating. I like the idea of using this for creating sun-kissed strands, or alternating for a multi-tonal blonde. Now, at the very least, I have a more developed backup plan for any bleach-allergy situations.

Of all the responses I was waiting for, your comment on hair integrity was the most vital to me. I couldn't wrap my head around the claim that high lifts were considered more gentle. There's no way you can open the cuticle for that long with such a harsh level of peroxide and just assume it won't do a similar level of damage.

This advice is golden, I'll make sure to leave this post up for anyone who might have the same questions! Thank you so much again for your input, this has been SO helpful!!!

 

[vividamnesia]

Hey everyone! This has been eating at me for a while, and it's honestly the only reason I joined this forum. However, I keep getting very different opinions on high lift color, and I thought this would be the perfect place to see what others have experienced first hand. (Specifically, high lift processing on a dark base using developer only.) Please feel free to share your experiences!

High Lift Claims: So, we all know high lift hair colors are typically designed for virgin hair levels 5/6 and above. The general consensus is that high lift dyes can only lift up to about 3 levels max and lead to a lot of warmth. However, some professionals claim that Wella's Koleston Perfect series can do more than that. Using the 40vol developer specifically made for this line, "Welloxon," a person could supposedly reach up to 4 or 5 levels of lift. Additionally, the use of "Special Mix" colors could be strong enough to counteract any unwanted undertones without adding any depth.

This obviously isn't a common lifting method on dark hair, but as you'll see below, it has been done before. I've attached links to videos of professional hair colorists claiming they can lift a dark base without bleach. I'm curious as to what the people on this website think. I personally believe that the aftermath would lead to so much warmth while fading, it wouldn't even matter if it could lift to the ideal color. However, I have more and more requests for "no bleach" lifting lately. I am willing to hear others out!

Links:

1. 
   
   (Lifting from Level 3 to Level 6 only using Level 6 color formulations "without bleach or brass results" - not even utilizing a high lift shade! Lauren also comments under the video that she didn't account for the Level 12 High Lifts at 40vol developer. She claims lifting 4 to 5 levels is possible in this instance.
   
   
2. 
   
   (Lifting what looks like a Level 4 to a Level 7. Christel used 12/89, 12/11, 12/22, and 12/81 which led to a medium blonde color. I feel like 12/89 and 12/11 wouldn't do much in this case. Rather, using 12/61 would have neutralized the warmer tones, and using 40vol developer throughout would have helped lift it a bit more. I actually like the end result color here though, regardless if it was intentional or not.)
   
   
3. 
   
   (Aubrey claims his client is a Level 6, but her hair color looks like a Level 3/4 to me. He uses 12/81 and 12/61 with 40vol developer, and it lifts to about a Level 8 auburn color. I think mixing 12/22 would have helped neutralize the copper tones, along with the /28 Special Mix that the first video mentions. Despite the warm color, I will admit the end result is a lot lighter than I expected.)
   
   
4. 
   
   (Lifting from a Level 5 to a Level 8/9. Angelo suggests three parts 12/22, two parts 12/81, and one part 12/61, using the same 1:2 color to developer ratio as suggested at 40vol. There's no client result here, but this seems to be the most rational formulation for lifting and cutting through warm undertones in those levels. Additionally, Lauren's advice from the first video to use /28 seems like it would be a good suggestion.)

Using the last video's example scenario, let's say we did that. We try taking a level 5 (virgin hair) to a cool level 7/8, only using a high lift color mix with 40vol Welloxon at a 1:2 ratio. Let's assume we're battling through the same basic unwanted undertones you get through bleaching. So, using basic color theory, you would have to counteract the level 3 & 4 Red, the level 5 Red Orange, the level 6 & 7 Orange, and level 8 Orange Yellow.

Based off their advice, it looks like using a mix of 12/22, 12/61, and 12/81 would handle the unwanted warmth. Additionally, something like Special Mix /28 could cut any extra reds & brassiness.

What do you think? Would this be worth the attempt? Has anyone utilized this method on anything darker than a level 5? Is it honestly any less damaging than just using bleach (considering the Welloxon developer percentage is so high)?

Thanks for reading!

P.S. Some people use foils while others don't. I assume the difference would be in the degree of lift, what do you prefer?

In my 25+ years ( 15 specializing in color corrective & all else chemical based services!) I've tried so many hi lift lines & only 1 did I find actually works better than all others & it even eats through old color yes you read that right! Farouks CHI infra hi lift is specifically formulated for lv.5 or darker. There are 3 blond tones, 3 red-red violet tones & 3 brown tones. It is used with 30 or 40 vol. In foils or bagged & hood dryer on low heat low air setting 15mins + 5 mins cool down. It even works on colored hair level 5 or darker. I have had many clients that color their own hair at home every month or so in a lv6 or darker for grey coverage & I like to pop in 5-6 foils of CHI infra Bb or GB put them under the dryer & like magic 20 mins later a nice blond hilight happens. I swear its the best I've ever used. Great 4 clients with Asian or Indian hairtypes too being coarse & lv.2N or is too!

 

[justchopitoff]

In my 25+ years ( 15 specializing in color corrective & all else chemical based services!) I've tried so many hi lift lines & only 1 did I find actually works better than all others & it even eats through old color yes you read that right! Farouks CHI infra hi lift is specifically formulated for lv.5 or darker. There are 3 blond tones, 3 red-red violet tones & 3 brown tones. It is used with 30 or 40 vol. In foils or bagged & hood dryer on low heat low air setting 15mins + 5 mins cool down. It even works on colored hair level 5 or darker. I have had many clients that color their own hair at home every month or so in a lv6 or darker for grey coverage & I like to pop in 5-6 foils of CHI infra Bb or GB put them under the dryer & like magic 20 mins later a nice blond hilight happens. I swear its the best I've ever used. Great 4 clients with Asian or Indian hairtypes too being coarse & lv.2N or is too!

Hey! Thanks for the reply!

Wow, that sounds like a game changer. I appreciate you sharing your expertise! I was told previously colored hair is an absolute no-go, so this must be a hidden gem. I've never even heard of the CHI Infra high lift, I'm gonna do a deep dive tonight lol.

I really appreciate you sharing the different methods you use and the duration of application. (I'll keep the shades BB and GB in mind.) I like the idea of at least having an option for previously colored clients who might be bleach-averse. (Even if I don't have the guts to try it yet, lol.)

Thanks for the recommendation! This changes a lot of what I've been taught, same with ronray's earlier response comparing hair damage. You just can't beat experience.

 

[justchopitoff]

Adding a few more links to this debate, both for and against high lift:

1. The Truth About Going Blonde Without Bleach

• In sum, this is another hot take on the impact of high lift color on hair. It's not as "gentle" as it's been touted. Scott also goes into detail about a ridiculously intensive process that can be used to take a brunette to blonde with out bleach, if absolutely necessary:
  • "If a dark brunette applied a High Lift Tint every ten days to just the half a centimetre of regrowth that appears near the scalp, the heat emitted from that scalp would boost the colourant’s lifting abilities up to the full five levels [over time]."
    • Every 10 days???? Personally, I could never recommend this, even to someone with a bleach allergy.

2.

• Not blonde, but this a shockingly good result for one sitting. Starting from Level 1 using Wella High Lift only (still waiting on the exact formula). I can't believe she reached this shade, roughly a reddish Level 5/6.

3.

• Kinda unrelated since it's a light base already, but this is a beautiful result from a starting Level 8, foiled with Wella 12.1 high lift & 40vol only. I think this looks gorgeous, surprised at how neutral the shade is with only 12.1.

4.

• My idea of going blonde the healthiest & fastest possible way, but goodness gracious that would be a very, very, very long day. Lifting a Level 3/4 to a special violet color Level 10 (with a shadow root) in one sitting - using only 10vol developer! Her hair at the end looks so soft and healthy. I think the cost is reasonable considering this is basically multiple lifting sessions wrapped in one - and the hair maintains integrity after about 8 hours lol.

I'll keep adding noteworthy examples and articles to this thread as I find them! Please feel free to do the same!

 

[vividamnesia]

Hey! Thanks for the reply!

Wow, that sounds like a game changer. I appreciate you sharing your expertise! I was told previously colored hair is an absolute no-go, so this must be a hidden gem. I've never even heard of the CHI Infra high lift, I'm gonna do a deep dive tonight lol.

I really appreciate you sharing the different methods you use and the duration of application. (I'll keep the shades BB and GB in mind.) I like the idea of at least having an option for previously colored clients who might be bleach-averse. (Even if I don't have the guts to try it yet, lol.)

Thanks for the recommendation! This changes a lot of what I've been taught, same with ronray's earlier response comparing hair damage. You just can't beat experience.

Thank you & yes it is a rare gem of a pro product color that lifts color. I tried the RR on virgin lv.6 & it went pink instead of red but I guess that's why its recomended for lv.5 or darker.

The blonds are Cb, Bb & GB (cool/ash, beige & Gold) I did find the Cb to be a little too much "cool" coming out about white which I found ddosent go too well with a warmer darker bases. But yes most definitely give it a try its a miricle product & their ammonia free color line lifts true too better than any other ammonia free line I've used.