Disaster hair colour!! Help!!

[kells]

Hi

I seem to be having a nightmare lately (since I finished college!!) and just everything I have learnt in the past 3 years has been removed from my head to the point where I am seriously considering not bothering to persue my career in hairdressing.

My partner decided last week that he was fed up of all the ribbing he gets from his mates from being grey at 27 so asked me to colour his hair. I was a bit reluctant as he is very particular about his hair and didnt want any disasters so I agreed that I would run some lowlights through his hair using a cap. I used 55/0 + 6% which looked great but he said that he wanted more coverage of the grey after him persitantly badgering me, we decided to colour again using the same colours but he decided he wanted full head colour. I did frequent strand tests and left it on for 30 mins (without heat) as per manu instr but he came out looking like Elvis!! His hair was black!!!

Anyway after much arguing about me ruining his hair he demanded that I recoloured it using a lighter colour. I told him that there was no point as it wouldnt lift but he insisted so we used a base 7 but as I told him, very little happened.

Luckily I have some elimin8 so used this to try to remove the colour. However this made his hair patchy orange (I know it goes an orangey colour but I always thought it was meant to be quite even)> We tried 3 times with the elimin8 (max advised) and still only got a marginal lift with orange patches. I then re-coloured his hair with a semi colour that was a 6 base which was much better but his hair still has a gingery tinge to it. I am at a bit of a loss what to do now as although it is much better, it is still far from perfect. Last night I used an 88/0 + 9% and a 12/0 + 12% to try to lighten a bit more (although warned him this could also make a bit more orange he insisted)

How can I get his hair lighter (or at least less orange) as I am reluctant to try anything else as I do not want to damage his hair!!

Please help as at the moment I am feeling like the worst hairdresser and worst girlfriend in the world!:sad:

 

[ladybgemini]

I'm sure some hair geeks will be along soon hun and they can help you

xxx

 

[JDs]

Hi

I seem to be having a nightmare lately (since I finished college!!) and just everything I have learnt in the past 3 years has been removed from my head to the point where I am seriously considering not bothering to persue my career in hairdressing.

My partner decided last week that he was fed up of all the ribbing he gets from his mates from being grey at 27 so asked me to colour his hair. I was a bit reluctant as he is very particular about his hair and didnt want any disasters so I agreed that I would run some lowlights through his hair using a cap. I used 55/0 + 6% which looked great but he said that he wanted more coverage of the grey after him persitantly badgering me, we decided to colour again using the same colours but he decided he wanted full head colour. I did frequent strand tests and left it on for 30 mins (without heat) as per manu instr but he came out looking like Elvis!! His hair was black!!!

Anyway after much arguing about me ruining his hair he demanded that I recoloured it using a lighter colour. I told him that there was no point as it wouldnt lift but he insisted so we used a base 7 but as I told him, very little happened.

Luckily I have some elimin8 so used this to try to remove the colour. However this made his hair patchy orange (I know it goes an orangey colour but I always thought it was meant to be quite even)> We tried 3 times with the elimin8 (max advised) and still only got a marginal lift with orange patches. I then re-coloured his hair with a semi colour that was a 6 base which was much better but his hair still has a gingery tinge to it. I am at a bit of a loss what to do now as although it is much better, it is still far from perfect. Last night I used an 88/0 + 9% and a 12/0 + 12% to try to lighten a bit more (although warned him this could also make a bit more orange he insisted)

How can I get his hair lighter (or at least less orange) as I am reluctant to try anything else as I do not want to damage his hair!!

Please help as at the moment I am feeling like the worst hairdresser and worst girlfriend in the world!:sad:

Hi There..What color line are you using? Semi-Demi- permanent?
You are correct so don't waste your color in trying to lighten him with color. color does not lift color.

I would suggest using a mild bleach on him and then tone him to the color he wants.
If his hair is drying out, condition it with a protein conditioner between colorings.

Have you tried using a ash tone to counteract the warmth?
What is the % of grey you are working with?

 

[kells]

I have been using Koleston perfect permanent though I did one semi permanent using colour touch as I was concerned about damaging the hair too much. It is actually in really good condition considering what it has been through in the last few days. I did use an Indola repair conditioning treatment after using the colour remover.
When you say use a mild bleach are you refering to the strength of peroxide used? This was to be my next move but I am so nervous now!!!
The grey is approx 30-40% (mostly around the sides)
Thanks for your help!

x

 

[JDs]

yes a mild bleach pertaining to the strenght of developer. Since I cannot actually see what tones and level the hair is, I cannot suggest a volume to use.
But to be on the safe side, trying starting with a 10V and work your way up.

Now ColorTouch Wella is a very warm line even in the N series.

What level is his natural hair?

 

[kells]

Well when comparing it to a colour chart his natural hair looked about base level 5 hoever this was so dark when I used this on his hair (maybe it was too dark over the grey?)
I've only ever used the Koleston Perfect and Wella Colour touch ranges so didnt feel confident using other brands but maybe I should look around.
I think I just need to build my confidence a bit to stand my ground when I do any colouring!

 

[JDs]

What i do when doing male hair..covering grey is I go one level lighter than their natural level.
#1. What they are use to looking at in the mirror every day is light (grey)
When you apply the same range (level) all the sudden they see their hair as being too dark.

#2. going one level lighter gives a nice highlight effect.

Also keep in mind that when doing a males grey hair, sometimes it is best to "ease" them into it. Do this by applying the color to a comb and combing the color thru. It will cover some grey but still leaving a bit showing, next time you do it, comb more in if they want it.

 

[Jeni Giles]

Hi


Luckily I have some elimin8 so used this to try to remove the colour. However this made his hair patchy orange (I know it goes an orangey colour but I always thought it was meant to be quite even)> We tried 3 times with the elimin8 (max advised) and still only got a marginal lift with orange patches. I then re-coloured his hair with a semi colour that was a 6 base which was much better but his hair still has a gingery tinge to it. I am at a bit of a loss what to do now as although it is much better, it is still far from perfect. Last night I used an 88/0 + 9% and a 12/0 + 12% to try to lighten a bit more (although warned him this could also make a bit more orange he insisted)

How can I get his hair lighter (or at least less orange) as I am reluctant to try anything else as I do not want to damage his hair!!

The less orange I might be able to help with, but shy of lightening again, your stuck where you are at. Elimina8 is a color remover, it is designed to remove artificial pigment, it does not know how much is artificail or how much is natural. Artificial pigment breaks down warmer and harder to control than natural pigment- hence the spotty orange.

Go back to your color wheel, right now it is your best friend, figure out what level of orange he is- deep orange, orange, gold orange, more gold- you get the idea, put your finger on where you think his orange is in relation to the color wheel, then go directly across and find something opposite but at the right level. For instance if his ginger color is level 6 and is still quite orange, find a level six blue base and adjust slightly- either with neutral (0) or by mixing a colors together that will put you directly across from his orange.

3% is deposit only, it will appear a level deeper than it is, color that is blue in base (to correct the orange) appears 1/2 to 1 level darker also. I would start with 6% 2 parts nuetral and 1 part blue at a level 7, do a test strand, check frequently, the porosity is a MAJOR factor and adjust accordingly.

HTH, the answers are always a color wheel away- that and a short prayer to the color gods:hug: JK