Help would be appreciated-Base 3 lifting to a base 6

[Jackllewellyn]

I have a client who I currently do in salon using Keune, she is a 3/4 mix and we want to lift to a base 6, I don't get on with Keune much and like to use wella or LOreal, I'm sure she's going to lift up with red/orange undertone and just want your opinion on what your think would be the best colour to counteract the undertones, thanks x

 

[indigo33]

pick your desired target on 6 lines then add /8 then mix with 9%...bingo:lick:

 

[Natm]

I'm in the same situation with a client of mine. She is red black! So it's going to be hard to lift. Will take months really. We need to use ash to counteract the orange. I'm going for something around a base 5 to start with. A geek said wella 5/81 so I am going to be having a look into that x

 

[adamlea87]

Hi Jackllewellyn,
If we assume the hair is a natural level 3, evan mixing a level 6 colour with 30 volume will probably only give you two levels of lift, so I wouldn't try to achieve any higher than a level 5 with a single process colour, or the results will be brassy.

As far as controlling warmth, I would add extra ash to your formula, since using 30 volume will over oxidise and 'eat up' of the artificial pigment.

If using Majirel you could use 1 tube 6,1 + 1/4 tube green or blue mix tone + 30 volume. (Use one level lighter with Majirel ash shades)

If using INOA you could use 5,17 + 30 volume.

Both of those formulas are assuming you want to take the hair to a neutral level 5.


If still want to take the hair to a level 6 you can use this method:
Lift the hair using a level 10 colour + 30 volume, applied as a virgin application. Lift the hair to a level 5 undertone and then rinse the colour.
Asses the amount of warmth being exposed, and then apply your target colour (e.g. INOA 6,1) with 20 volume, to achieve one more level of lift and maximum colour deposit.
I would only suggest this method if you are very confident with colour.

If you are in the US, L'Oreal make a high-lift brown called Majilift, but they don't sell it in to UK.

Lastly if at all possible- strand test! The best way to see how the hair will lighten and how much warmth is inside.

Adam

 

[@l1harper]

Hi Jack,

I represent the UK distributors for Keune Haircosmetics. We'd like to offer some help if we can on your lifting from base 3/4 issue. We can respond with the specific colour tones and mixtures needed form the Keune range which you may find to your advantage. I will ask one of the UK educators to respond to your question by end of today.

It's noted that Keune is not your 1st preference for professional colour! - but we hope we can share more of our enthusiasm to "keep it professional" in the future. We are extremely proud that we manufacture, supply & educate strictly only for professional stylist. No mass channels whatsoever.

Regards

Lee

 

[kevinm]

Hi Jackllewellyn,

I'm one of the education team for Keune Haircosmetics and can hopefully help out a bit.

Firstly assuming that the clients hair is previously coloured then we would need to start by applying a bleach wash to the previously tinted sections.

Depending on the time you have and condition of the hair we would need to alter the developer used but at a guess I would say that Cream Bleach mixed with 6% (20 vol) should suffice.

The biggest tip here is to ensure that the hair has lifted to at least a 6, if the condition allows it can sometimes be a good idea to lift slightly lighter (6-7) as this will remove more of the underlying tone.

Once the bleach wash has been removed I would then recommend using Tinta Color 6.19 and 3%(10 vol) and developing or 30 minutes.

I have suggested 6.19 as it will neutralise the unwanted red/copper tones but of course you can tailor this with the addition of mix tones (0/11 and 0/99) depending on the vibrancy of the underlying tones.

I hope that this helps out and let us know if there's anything else.

Regards,
Kev

 

[Tomme]

There is actually quite a simple way of finding out how to neutralise unwanted tones, that's to use a basic colour wheel. Saying ash isn't enough, what tone of ash? There's green, blue and violet.
Green for red tones, blue for copper tones and violet for golden tones.

Obviously we need to know if the client is coloured hair or virgin, previous colours used, what the actual tonal colour if the current hair is (base four, is it more a 4.1? 4.3? 4.9?) without any of this no advice can be given really x

 

[classixuk]

Every time I see the brand "Keune" it takes me back to a time around 11 years ago when one of their educators visited our salon to do a colour demonstration.

He told me that Keune bleach contains so much wheat protein that it actually leaves the hair in better condition than before you bleached it!

Can you imagine that? A client comes in with fragile sensitised hair so you mix a bit of bleach up and slap it on to "strengthen it"? :|