How thick should my gel be??

#1
Hi All, let me just first say that I LOVE this site!! I've been doing nails for a short period (40 sets all up) and I am wondering how thick the gel should be? I seemed to have fixed lifting in zone 3, still having problems with side lifting and working on that. :green:

Some of the ladies I have worked on seem to chip their nails easily while others don't have a problem. To combat this I have made the gel thicker.....but MY nails are quite thin (about 1mm) and I don't have ANY problems with chipping! I would love to do the ladies nails thinner, but don't want them to chip. How thick should the gel look?? :eek: How do I make them thinner without chipping?

Also, what do you think is the best technique applying the gel?? Currently I am putting a bead in zone 2 and gently pushing it toward cuticle area and then working it over to the sides before pulling it to the free edge. I'm confused about the side walls though... When I move it to the side wall and start working it up to the free edge, do I cap the side wall of the nail as well as the free edge?? (I've been doing that, but not sure if that is contributing to the side walls lifting) Does that make sense?
 

MINKUS

Gel Junkie
#2
Hi All, let me just first say that I LOVE this site!! I've been doing nails for a short period (40 sets all up) and I am wondering how thick the gel should be? I seemed to have fixed lifting in zone 3, still having problems with side lifting and working on that. :green:

What gel are you working with? are you getting a little too close to the cuticle? is your prep meticulous? are you removing the shine? are you 'lock curing' each nail to avoid the gel moving?

Some of the ladies I have worked on seem to chip their nails easily while others don't have a problem.

I too 'sometimes' have this problem, and have been using gel for 4 years:green: some peeps are heavier handed than others, and 'pickers' Im guessing your using a file off gel if your getting 'chipping' where is the chipping? on the free edge? are you really 'capping the free edge' on the problem chippers...is the gel over their own nails? or extensions? if its over their own nails perhaps you could sculpt a firmer free edge i have done this on some people with good results

To combat this I have made the gel thicker.....but MY nails are quite thin (about 1mm) and I don't have ANY problems with chipping! I would love to do the ladies nails thinner, but don't want them to chip. How thick should the gel look?? :eek: How do I make them thinner without chipping?

I work at different 'thickness's for different people !!! they shouldnt look bulky and clumpy BUT on the other hand - make them too thin and they could break. the main strength needs to be in the apex and taper down thinner to the free edge.

Also, what do you think is the best technique applying the gel??

Yep apply a bead then 'float' the brush over the gel dont 'drag' / dig into the gel.

Currently I am putting a bead in zone 2 and gently pushing it toward cuticle area and then working it over to the sides before pulling it to the free edge. I'm confused about the side walls though... When I move it to the side wall and start working it up to the free edge, do I cap the side wall of the nail as well as the free edge??

yes cap all around the free edge and side's ie the 'exposed' side's of the free edge!

I put my brush upright and tend pat & smooth over the side walls - hard to explain !

DONT get too close to the skin that could be your problem with side wall lifting or again NOT removing the shine in this area, prep, and try lock curing each nail so the gel doesnt move.

(I've been doing that, but not sure if that is contributing to the side walls lifting) Does that make sense?
hth
 

#3
:) Thanks for that useful advice. I use Creative Brisa. I think I must be one of the most "well read" nail techs in Canberra (Australia)!! My eyes are bloodshot from reading! hehe I'm pretty confident with my prep, concede that I need some work on the side walls... From what I've been reading, it's not a uncommon problem. I'm going to start drawing a box with gel in the stress zone (saw this recently and thought it looked like a good idea)! to try and stop chipping. Have a great night! :)
 

Bagpuss

Sleepy Geek Zzzzzzzz
#4
Zone 3 needs to be very thin...there is no strength required in zone 3 at all so keep it thin. Place your bead in zone 2 but then instead of pushing the bead to zone 3 just gently drag a little of the gel from your bead into zone 3.

before applying your top gloss be sure to blend the gel into the nail in zone 3...use a soft 240 and almost make it disappear without removing it.
 

#5
Zone 3 needs to be very thin...there is no strength required in zone 3 at all so keep it thin. Place your bead in zone 2 but then instead of pushing the bead to zone 3 just gently drag a little of the gel from your bead into zone 3.

before applying your top gloss be sure to blend the gel into the nail in zone 3...use a soft 240 and almost make it disappear without removing it.
Can you explain this I don't think I'm doing this for my gel nails:rolleyes:
 

Bagpuss

Sleepy Geek Zzzzzzzz
#6
Zone 3 needs to be very thin...there is no strength required in zone 3 at all so keep it thin. Place your bead in zone 2 but then instead of pushing the bead to zone 3 just gently drag a little of the gel from your bead into zone 3.



Can you explain this I don't think I'm doing this for my gel nails:rolleyes:
blending in zone 3...making the product flush with the natural nail. This makes for a nicer regrowth and reduces lifting.

So after you have built...POW etc...wipe and buff to shape...blend zone 3...then clean the nail and apply the topgloss.

HTH
 

#7
other than Angie's great advice, keep in mind that you have to adapt the thickness to the client.

some need it thick, some can keep it thin.
it just HAS to look balanced, and the product has to be blended in the natural nail. your apex has to be esthetic too, and you're done.
 

MINKUS

Gel Junkie
#8
:) Thanks for that useful advice. I use Creative Brisa. I think I must be one of the most "well read" nail techs in Canberra (Australia)!! My eyes are bloodshot from reading! hehe I'm pretty confident with my prep, concede that I need some work on the side walls... From what I've been reading, it's not a uncommon problem. I'm going to start drawing a box with gel in the stress zone (saw this recently and thought it looked like a good idea)! to try and stop chipping. Have a great night! :)
No problemo !

If you have a camera to hand when you do your next set take a side shot and a barrel shot and pop it on here and we can tell you if your on the right tracks:hug:

Lifting at the side walls SHOULD'NT be a common problem....it's one you want to eradicate!

Good luck !
 
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