Lightening up black?

[aimeelouise93]

Just wanted some advice about lightening black! I have a client who has had 2 colours with myself. Previous stylist left and had been doing all over colour with a half head h/lights. However when came to myself I suggested a full head h/lights. As her hair was starting to become banded (stylist had been using lighter tint each visit) her h/lights were also lighter becoming warmer towards midlengths and ends.

Shes now had 2 full head foil applications, both times bleach & 20vol then toned with 10.1. Client is grey naturally now, although i dont think much more will lift out of her mid-lengths and ends. They are FAR lighter though compared to the start, possibly 7-8 with warm tones. She doesnt want to be blonde all over, just lighter, I was thinking next time to mix a few tones through to break it up. Rather than just bleach & 20 vol.

What would you suggest? I wish id taken a photo for you all we use Alfaparf but can use another colour house


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[Dondon90]

I'm really confused, your topic says lightening black hair but you've said she's had 2 sets of full head foils.

What % of white is she?
What is your target shade and could you be a little more clearer on what her colour is at the moment?

 

[KHS]

As above...where does the black come into it?

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[aimeelouise93]

Sorry she started off black with previous stylist, she was a 4/5 when I started.

Shes 100% white. She wont look at a shade chart she says 'ill leave it up to you, you know best', she was in yesterday and just said she thought it was light enough and that it looked nice.

This why im left stuck, feel like the best thing to do is do break it up with more tones of blonde and a 7? Unless theres a better way for me to go about it?




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[Charlotte123]

Sorry she started off black with previous stylist, she was a 4/5 when I started.

Shes 100% white. She wont look at a shade chart she says 'ill leave it up to you, you know best', she was in yesterday and just said she thought it was light enough and that it looked nice.

This why im left stuck, feel like the best thing to do is do break it up with more tones of blonde and a 7? Unless theres a better way for me to go about it?




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So She wAs a level 4 with some half heAd foils when she came to you and now you have done 2 appointments of full head highlights, is that right? Lol .

What level is she now? I'm guessing warm level 6s and 7s?

Could you not go in with bleach 9% and tone it afterwards with like a 9/60 illumina I've found is a nice one!
Or a tone with something /8 to get rid of the orange tones?
And also maybe use something on a 10 with 9% to give you a caramel ( guessing base 7ish) to go with it? X

 

[jamiereid92]

You cant lift tint with tint though, best way would be to do a gentle cleanse before you do the highlights x

 

[Dondon90]

I would do a colour cleanse before starting this. Lift as much as possible while maintaining the condition and then go from there. Also I wouldn't use bleach + 9% there's no need to, especially if under that colour she is 100% white!

 

[Charlotte123]

You cant lift tint with tint though, best way would be to do a gentle cleanse before you do the highlights x

I know the general rule is tint doesn't lift tint but after 2 lots of full head bleached highlights, going in with a 10 and 9% will lift to give her a nice caramel one along side the bleached highlights xx

 

[aimeelouise93]

So She wAs a level 4 with some half heAd foils when she came to you and now you have done 2 appointments of full head highlights, is that right? Lol .

What level is she now? I'm guessing warm level 6s and 7s?

Could you not go in with bleach 9% and tone it afterwards with like a 9/60 illumina I've found is a nice one!
Or a tone with something /8 to get rid of the orange tones?
And also maybe use something on a 10 with 9% to give you a caramel ( guessing base 7ish) to go with it? X

Yes thats right! Yes warm 6/7/8 she doesnt want to go lighter as such. Shes happy with how light she is at the moment.

Would bleach and 9% not be quite harsh? Her hair is still in lovely condition atm. Her roots are lifting to a very light blonde like a level 9/10 so just wanting to break it up. I dont think she wants to become as light as 9/10 all over.



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[Dondon90]

Yes thats right! Yes warm 6/7/8 she doesnt want to go lighter as such. Shes happy with how light she is at the moment.

Would bleach and 9% not be quite harsh? Her hair is still in lovely condition atm. Her roots are lifting to a very light blonde like a level 9/10 so just wanting to break it up. I dont think she wants to become as light as 9/10 all over.



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I defo wouldn't use 30vol, there's no need to 👍

 

[Charlotte123]

I defo wouldn't use 30vol, there's no need to 👍

I agree in that case then yeah 30 v would'nt be needed if she's not wanting to go "blonde" xx

 

[Dondon90]

In my opinion even if she was wanting a light result I still wouldn't use 30vol. Two things to consider;

If you use a lower peroxide and lengthen your development time you'll find you'll get a much better and consistent lift and maintain the hairs integrity.

Also, If she's 100% white there is no natural pigment to fight with therefore you'll find it'll lift easier than say someone with 0% white under your current shade on the mid lengths and ends

 

[Charlotte123]

I definitely agree with low and slow when it comes to peroxide, I am a lover of 10v (as Ull prob see in my others posts lol)
But sometimes if it's used correctly and monitored as well as u knowing the hair is in good condition-followed by a treatment 30v is great to use x

 

[surf girl]

Don't use 30vol for goodness sake you've already used 6% twice her hair will be like chewing gum 🙈 what do you actually want to do? I read your first post but I don't understand what you want to know? Is it a nice combo of colours? or how to get rid of banding?

 

[aimeelouise93]

Its more a nice combination of colours im after! The banding isnt contradtin atm, so can sort! No i hardly ever use 30 vol, low and slow all the way

Im thinking of a 7, an 8.13/9.13 and then a bleach one?
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[surf girl]

That sounds nice I'd do 7, 9.13 & bleach too

 

[hairbyjamie]

You could also alternate your peroxide percentages with the lightener?

 

[hairbyjamie]

Ignore my last comment I was confused and thought you'd start fresh from a dark base