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Cire

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Hi, I'm having a customer coming in next week.Her hair situation is pretty compicated. She has orange band (around lvl 4 or 5) all over, especially the nape, some level 8 strips here and there, a lot of level 6 7 mixture all over, plus her natural black hair grow out about 1/4 inches. Basically, the previous hair dresser gave her a highlight, but didn't do such a good job, and all so damage a lot of her hair.

So basically, she want to go light all over. So here what I'm planning to do, jump in if you have any suggestion, will very appreciate it.

1. Going to give her an olaplex treatment beforehand.
2. Going in on the orange band 1st. Blondme bleach and kenra 40 developer and olaplex.
3. Bleach and 30 developer on root, then on the level 6, 7 hair. Then the level 8 trip last.
4. Let it sit, no heat and pray to the hair god.
5. Another olaplex treatment?
6.See how it go and proceed to color. She wants green/turquoise, but said she's ok to leave with blond and comeback in 3 weeks to lighten hair again, then color, if needed.

So that's my plan, what do yall think?
 

cam7

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It sounds like she will need a toner to get rid of any yellow or brassy tones. Does she want a warm or cool blonde? Either way it needs to lift to a light yellow colour, a few shades lighter than the desired results, then tone with a toner to put some pigment back in and cancel brassy tones out.

I wouldn't lighten twice in two weeks especially if she has very damaged hair.

Good luck :)
 

Cire

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Oh yeah, totally left out the toner, thinking either do a blue-violet or violet depend on how the bleach turn out. Should I mix it with developer 40 or 30?
 

cam7

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No don't mix the toner with that!! It will cause further damage, you need a roughly 1.9% developer specially for toning hair. I would do some research on this... It sounds like her hair is delicate. Can you ask a colleague who uses your colors?
I am new and only have experience with 2 brands.
Violet works on yellow tones, see a colour wheel for the correct toner to counteract yellow/brassy tones.
 

Cire

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I usually mix it with 20 developer, but since i start using olaplex, I have to kiick it up 1 notch since I find that it's less effective. I'm thinking about going with 30, but her hair is really really stubborn, but again really don't want to risk it.
 

cam7

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Sorry I am a bit confused. All I can advise is to bleach her hair beforehand (using either 20, 30 or 40 vol developer) and keep a close eye on it, then when it has reaches a light yellow like inside a banana skin you rinse the bleach off. Then you need to tone it, I like l'oreal proffessional but Wella is great too and I want to use it. When you tone do not use anything higher than 3% vol to tone. Good luck
 

surf girl

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Hi, I'm having a customer coming in next week.Her hair situation is pretty compicated. She has orange band (around lvl 4 or 5) all over, especially the nape, some level 8 strips here and there, a lot of level 6 7 mixture all over, plus her natural black hair grow out about 1/4 inches. Basically, the previous hair dresser gave her a highlight, but didn't do such a good job, and all so damage a lot of her hair.

So basically, she want to go light all over. So here what I'm planning to do, jump in if you have any suggestion, will very appreciate it.

1. Going to give her an olaplex treatment beforehand.
2. Going in on the orange band 1st. Blondme bleach and kenra 40 developer and olaplex.
3. Bleach and 30 developer on root, then on the level 6, 7 hair. Then the level 8 trip last.
4. Let it sit, no heat and pray to the hair god.
5. Another olaplex treatment?
6.See how it go and proceed to color. She wants green/turquoise, but said she's ok to leave with blond and comeback in 3 weeks to lighten hair again, then color, if needed.

So that's my plan, what do yall think?
First things first if the hair is damaged you shouldn't even bleach using olaplex.

Next thing you only bump developer with bleach not colour or toners.

As you've given lots of info as we request here I'll give you my spin :)

1: great :)

2: personally I would rather use 30vol with olaplex to make 20 so as not to trash the cuticle, low and slow with multiple applications is usually better, but you can use your own judgement there. Only lift the darkest areas until their the same level as the next section to work on, don't rush and start applying to the 6/7 until the 4/5 is really a 6/7.

You may need to rinse & do another standalone at this point depending on integrity of the hair

3: you need to lift the 6/7 to a 9 before touching the root.

4: pray o_O you have olaplex no need for prayers. Just keep checking elasticity. And use your professional judgement.

Again, You may need to rinse & do another standalone at this point depending on integrity of the hair

5: lift your 8 to a 9 only then should you apply to the roots & you should only use 6%

Depending on how the hair is coping at this point you could rinse do a standalone and repeat steps 1 to 5 again because it may not have lifted as you expected. Seriously leave the roots till last they lift super quick because of the heat from the scalp, a word of advice too, don't book anyone else in alongside this client, I did a very similar case today & it took 7 hours straight. You cannot rush colour correction and make sure you charge accordingly.

6: Only when you have an even canvas preferably a level 9 for green & 10 for blue, then proceed to your turquoise. Or whatever you pick.

Make the client aware this may not be possible at all due to the condition of her hair, she may get to the 6/7 point and be stuck at that, be realistic. They also need to understand that fashion colours fade really fast
 

Cire

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First things first if the hair is damaged you shouldn't even bleach using olaplex.

Next thing you only bump developer with bleach not colour or toners.

As you've given lots of info as we request here I'll give you my spin :)

1: great :)

2: personally I would rather use 30vol with olaplex to make 20 so as not to trash the cuticle, low and slow with multiple applications is usually better, but you can use your own judgement there. Only lift the darkest areas until their the same level as the next section to work on, don't rush and start applying to the 6/7 until the 4/5 is really a 6/7.

You may need to rinse & do another standalone at this point depending on integrity of the hair

3: you need to lift the 6/7 to a 9 before touching the root.

4: pray o_O you have olaplex no need for prayers. Just keep checking elasticity. And use your professional judgement.

Again, You may need to rinse & do another standalone at this point depending on integrity of the hair

5: lift your 8 to a 9 only then should you apply to the roots & you should only use 6%

Depending on how the hair is coping at this point you could rinse do a standalone and repeat steps 1 to 5 again because it may not have lifted as you expected. Seriously leave the roots till last they lift super quick because of the heat from the scalp, a word of advice too, don't book anyone else in alongside this client, I did a very similar case today & it took 7 hours straight. You cannot rush colour correction and make sure you charge accordingly.

6: Only when you have an even canvas preferably a level 9 for green & 10 for blue, then proceed to your turquoise. Or whatever you pick.

Make the client aware this may not be possible at all due to the condition of her hair, she may get to the 6/7 point and be stuck at that, be realistic. They also need to understand that fashion colours fade really fast
Thank you very much for this, I'm fine with bleach and color but when it come to color correcting, I don't have much experience. She's a friend of a friend, and she super nice too. And from what I heard, the previous hairdresser(es) overcharged her and made a complete mess. I'm taking her in on my day off, so I can take as much time with her as needed. She's an awesome person doing admirable work and deserve the most awesome hair.

Here is my summary, please correct me if I'm wrong

++So I start with a standalone, then bleach the 4/5 with 30vol - rinse and another standalone - bleach all over off-root, wait for it to lift to 8/9, then apply on root with 20vol (which make it around 10vol with add-on) - wait for it to lift to a 9/10 - rinse and another standalone - tone it (with 20 vol and olaplex?) - another standalone?? - then proceed to color- then maybe one last standalone???

Is it too much? I really don't mind to take time, as long as it will help.
 

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