Stonker of a colour correction...

[kimi1101]

So I had a girl come in today, book an appt for tomorrow. I do her colour for her, usually a 1/8 of 5/0 and 1/2 55/66 so its pretty purpley. Lovely colour. Its a short graduated bob.

She happened to mention she wanted a change so I said, oh what like? Yep, you've guessed it...she wants to be blonde.

I'm so glad she mentioned it to me before tomorrow! I took two test cuttings of her hair, but now I'm wondering what to do with them. My thoughts are...bleach bath it all, lift it up to maybe an 8 (I was always taught with a correction to lift it a shade higher than you want it) then put a few chunkyish highlights thru the front to lighten it (I'm aware that she said she'd be happy being a light brown with some "bright blonde" through it) then put a 7/0 with some of the 0/22 mixtone on it, but I've never used the 0/22...the thought of it terrifies me. Whenever I've tried to correct red out of someones hair, I can always see a bit of it still there, I actually used the 0/22 on someone once, but it never seemed to make a difference.

Ideally she wants it like an 8/07 with some bleach highlights but I just can't see past this block purpley colour.

Next step is to call Wella Advisory Helpline but thought I'd try you brainy geeks first

Thanks in advance.

 

[persianista]

Am not familliar with Wella colours, I know what I would do in L'oreal, but thats no help. I think you sound along the right lines. Remember that the blue element of a purple is a volatile pigment, so will remove quickly, You may not have too much ag with the red element, especially if you can get it to an 8, so dont be too quick with the greenash. x

 

[kimi1101]

thank you. will do my test pieces just now, bleach them up, and see what what from there. x

 

[rachy123]

Hi there, i would personally, lift them up and see what they lift up like, and add a nice toner to them, but use a weaker peroxide on the natural root area.x..x

 

[kimi1101]

well it lifted to a nice pinky base 8, but then i applied 8/1 (ashy tone) and it did actually very very little. gonna try applying a 7/1 to the other test piece in the morning so who knows. she wants bright blonde bits in it...but i did two apps of 6% for 45 mins each time and it didnt lift past a pinky base 9.

 

[rachy123]

:biggrin:

well it lifted to a nice pinky base 8, but then i applied 8/1 (ashy tone) and it did actually very very little. gonna try applying a 7/1 to the other test piece in the morning so who knows. she wants bright blonde bits in it...but i did two apps of 6% for 45 mins each time and it didnt lift past a pinky base 9.

I would try 40 vol, for 30 mins, then see the condition ect. Clients cant always have what they want, remember it takes time in some cases..x

good luck

 

[kimi1101]

I don't ever use 40 vol with bleach...20vol works just as well if you leave it twice as long...too harsh on the hair using 40.

i think i'm gonna have to explain to her tomorrow that i cant get any really blonde bits. she wanted chunky, bright bits, but its just not gonna happen straight away. I already said she wouldn't be "blonde" tomorrow, so we're getting somewhere...

 

[persianista]

Pale gold toner will neutralise any pink tone in the blonde bits.

 

[rachy123]

yea i am sure she will understand , I never use 40 unless i am lifting colour out of the hair.x

 

[kimi1101]

Thank you, both of you. Did the colour correction module in my level 3, but my ex boss never let me do colour corrections in the salon as she said it was too risky. so its a bit like starting from scratch again. x

 

[rachy123]

Not a problem kimmi.. That is what the site is for... but i would deafinatly explain that it will nit go "bright blonde" I would show her the strand pieces too.xx

 

[DreamLover]

I would never bleach with 40vol, it is far too harsh on the hair. Have you already bleached the other cutting? I would try 30vol and see if you can lift it past the pinky base 9. Depending on the result, you might need to lift again with 10 or 20vol. x

 

[kimi1101]

yeh i bleached them both up. did one twice 45 mins at 6%. hmmmmmm

 

[persianista]

You can always add heat to the 20 vol. I would prob risk 30 vol if the hair felt good enogh, flooding inbetween the meche with the base colour. That said, I'm mega fast putting meche in. If your not, then stick to 20 vol.

 

[kimi1101]

yeh i never thought about adding heat to the second application. I'll just bash some thru the parting at 30 vol, shes got good strong hair, and after the 2 lots of 20vol its been looking fairly good so far so should be fine. Thank you and I'll let you know how it goes!!!

 

[DreamLover]

Good Luck, I'm sure it will look lovely when it's done. You'll have to take a photo

I bet your so pleased she didnt attempt to bleach her own hair and leave you with the mess. The headaches I'm having trying to get this yellow out of my friends hair! It just wont neutralise :Scared:

 

[kimi1101]

Ha!!!! Well I did say to her today it will be a whole lot easier lifting out salon colour than if she had ever done it herself...she knows it will cost her to get it done but she's willing to pay the extra to get it done right. I have a camera so I'll get a before and after...

lol. poor you. the lighter it is, the more you run the risk with being super porous etc...grrrrr stupid home dye

 

[rachy123]

yes maybe try 30 with heat. Let us know how you go..x

 

[persianista]

30 with heat suffers a lot of expansion, it is never a good idea. It also caused hair to degenerate very quickly, so should be avoided if possible.

 

[rachy123]

i have done it in the past on strong hair and all been ok.. it just depends on the history of the hair. But Kimmi its up to you, were are all individual and have different opinions.. Good luck.xx