Toning level 7/8

[mkp101]

Hi there,
Looking for advice on toning darker hair (natural 6/7) pre-lightened to a level 7/8. I wouldn't mind if the hair incurred a LITTLE bit of additional lift, but all I really want to do is tone it to a nice caramel, color. I just want to get all the blorange out of it. I guess I could just color it, but I'm hoping that toning will be an option
Because it's a level 7/8, pastel toning with Color Touch just doesn't work. (The hair's just too dark) Because there's not ammonia in CT, it's just not able to open up the cuticle to really have any effect.
There is a line in Wella (I'm in Canada, and shop at Cosmoprof) called "Color Perfect Creme Gel". It contains ammonia, and has a 1:2 mix ratio. (I'm also SUPER confused about this line, and there is ZERO info available about it) I mention it because I was thinking that with the presence of ammonia, and mixed with a lower volume, perhaps this would do the trick.
I would love any advice about both toning darker levels of hair, and also about the mysterious "Color Perfect Creme Gel".
Mentioning their names makes me cringe, but I love the cool level 7/8 tones I've seen in Kim and Khloe Kartrashian. That is what I'm trying to achieve. Any advice welcome.

 

[Eviestyle]

You dont use pastel with color touch. You use 1.9 percent. I would try 7/89 CT with 1.9.

 

[mkp101]

Hey Evie,
Thank you for taking the time to respond.

I do understand that the lower the volume or peroxide, the greater the level or deposit, but I don't think I implemented that knowledge.

That said, as I'd mentioned in my original question, I would rather end up with a little unintentional life than risk going darker. What do you think of using 10/89 instead? I just don't want to risk the deposit of the brown in the 7/89.

 

[ColourGirly]

You would like to use a 10line over a 7/8 to tone with? Even if it did lift don't you think that's wishful thinking?

I'd use and 8 level to tone, koleston with pastel if you want something more powerful.

 

[soozgribb]

IME this only tends to happen if the hair is lighter than an 8 and/or very porous. What did you use to tone?

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[mkp101]

Thx ColorGirl,
I thought my reasoning was sound wanting to tone with a lighter level, just so the hair wouldn't end up darker. But now I remember seeing instructions for Koleston Special Mix, and the lighter the level, the less tonal mix was present. (Is that what you were getting at when you said that toning with a 10 would be 'wishful thinking'?)
When I initially tried to tone it, I did use CT 10/89 (or 10/81), and 10 vol (Pastel Developer). I did so thinking the higher vol would give me more 'omph', but I did not consider the basic rule of 'lower vol = higher deposit'.
Like I'd said, I just wanted to avoid a degree of deposit that would darken the hair. But I think that I need to reconsider the whole task.
I think more realistic options are:
1) Bleach bath and a darker level toner. This might take it to a level 8/9, and then toning with 7/89.
2) Straight-up 'dying' it the color I want with an pearl/ash etc 8 level.
3) Drabbing it with 7/89 and living with the cooler, though slightly darker result.

Another thing I'd considered, the Paul Mitchell UTP/UTA toners. I'm just thinking that the ammonia would allow better penetration, it would have a better chance of giving the desired result even on a darker level of color. Any thoughts on this approach? Will the ammonia allow more absorption of the toner 'ash', or simply create unintentional lift.

 

[mkp101]

Just found what may be a solution... would love some feedback.
The problem is that the hair - lightened to a level 7 or 8 - still has some of the brass that disappears when hair gets lighter. That's part of what the lightening process does; remove brass as it goes up in level. Having brass at level 7 or 8 means it still has some fundamentally strong color.
Possible solution:
(Taken from another forum)

You have to use a product with enough saturation to get it done. In essence the PM Ultra toners are only best for hair lifted to level 10 or above. (pale yellow) OCCASIONALLY hair darker may grab a bit more tonality with a light level toner but that is RARE.

PM Flash finish toners are very pastel and sheer in nature and designed for above a level 8, but really a 9. The stronger the brassiness left in the hair though, the more opaque the toner will need to be. PM color is a PERFECT choice with 5 volume for hair that did not quite make it to blonde as even the UTs tend to be more pastel than level 10 or below in PM color.

· Yellow orange level 8 (school bus) best toner is 7P and 9A with 5 Volume

· Strong yellow level 9 (phonebook) 9P with 5 volume

· Paler yellow Level 10 (Splenda packet) UTP with a ribbon of 9P or 2 Violet shots with 5 volume

(All of these are done on damp hair and check at 10 minutes-- if ready take off, but can leave on up to 20 minutes)

This seems like it addresses everything:
* strong pigments
* presence of ammonia
* used with low vol developer resulting in strong deposit only

 

[ColourGirly]

To be honest I think your way over complicating things.

In short what the above says is if you lift to a level 8 use an a toner in a level 8. If you lift to a 9 use a level 9. Etc etc

You've lifted to a 7/8 level then use a 7/8 level not a 10.

 

[ColourGirly]

Colour touch deposits pigments.

Koleston and pastel had ammonia and more colour pigment so is more powerful.

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

I'm really confused after reading this. Do you usually use Wella or are you trying it because a blog has recommended it? Sorry!

 

[kellylill]

I agree what about just toning with a level 8? Like Wella Colour Touch 8/81 or Illumina 8/69?

 

[mkp101]

Sugarplum,
I do use Wella, but have just had a hard time toning this hair.

 

[robyn8686]

I lifted my hair natural base 5 to base 8 yellow orange (ombré) n I toned with 8av it did go darker but after a couple washes faded to a clean 8! I prefer the tone to be right using the right base as I feel pre lightened hair always fades a bit anyway x

 

[Nearlyme]

I am really confused. I do not use wella I use loreal but was taught you can only tone to the level you have lifted but that is is advisable to go up a shade if you are using loads of ash as it naturally drops a shade.
I was also told that if it is in between shades you always opt for the darker so if you are a 7/8 then you work like you are a 7.
So you would need to tone with a level 8 ash to tone a level 7 with lots of ash pigment. .
I think. ..

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[vixxy]

You dont use pastel with color touch. You use 1.9 percent. I would try 7/89 CT with 1.9.

I agree! 7/89 all the way! I always use this to tone my darker clients. Does not darken to a base 7!! I used it to tone the colour below which was screaming orange!!

 

[beckstar!]

What on earth are some of you talking about on this thread! As colour girly has said you tone with the same level you have lifted to simple as that x

 

[cassies97]

What on earth are some of you talking about on this thread! As colour girly has said you tone with the same level you have lifted to simple as that x

Where have you been!😱 haha x

 

[cassies97]

I always get confused with this, when you say '7/8' do you mean it's a level 7 with pearl or is it in-between a level 7 and a level 8?

 

[beckstar!]

She means level 7- level 8

 

[beckstar!]

Where have you been!😱 haha x

Iv just had a little time away Hun but now I'm Back!... have u missed me? Haha