When to pinch?

GemmiLou

Newbie Nail Tech
Hi all,

Just after a bit of clarification and advice please! I have recently purchased my first pinching tool but I tend to only use hard gel for extensions now as opposed to acrylic. I use CND Brisa, Ink London IJel and Crystal nails fusion gel. I also tend to sculpt using forms rather than use the tips. Question is at what stage in the process should I pinch the nail and for how long? Does it go in the lamp to cure or after? Does the tool not change the way the gel sets? I'd love to create really nice curves and to make them strong! But I am so confused! Help needed please xxx
 

NailtechJoe

IN:@thenailmaestro
From a science book, never. Only in competitions.
 

GemmiLou

Newbie Nail Tech

Trinity

Brush Slayer Geek
It's really hard to pinch gel as it's setting in the lamp, it's about really knowing your product well so you know when it's cured enough to hold the pinch but not too soft it will damage the surface. It will be trial and error until you know your product, it will be a case of part curing, pinching, then full cure. You'd be better sculpting and ensuring your forms have a narrow c-curve before curing. I've seen people pinch after taking the nail out of the lamp, not sure it makes much difference as the product is cured by then, it's still warm I suppose so you may get some change in shape but I'm not convinced it works too well after curing.

My biggest problem with pinching is 'how' rather than the 'when'. I see so many people pinching way too hard and too far up that natural nail which is going to cause all sorts of long term problems with damage to the natural nail plate and bed, and pressure on the nail as it grows.
 

NailtechJoe

IN:@thenailmaestro
My biggest problem with pinching is 'how' rather than the 'when'. I see so many people pinching way too hard and too far up that natural nail which is going to cause all sorts of long term problems with damage to the natural nail plate and bed, and pressure on the nail as it grows.
Continuous pinching can lead to Onycholysis which is what you just said. The recommendation that Doug Schoon made was to never pinch, but if you want to create a C curve, it is possible to do them by using a narrow C curve form or use wooden dowels to create the desired shape. He did say that competition nails are not subjected to the rigours of day to day activities and break within days. The problem is that when a nail is pinched and subjected to the daily stress, it will cause problems which is what you have just mentioned. See article here although I have his book :)

https://www.schoonscientific.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/article-book-Nail-Structure-DEC.pdf
 
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