Some healthy tips for professionals

[Debster]

Some healthy tips for professionals

Maintaining healthy natural nails is not as difficult as many people think. Nails, as we all know, are healthiest in their natural state, requiring a little bit of nail polish for protection and regular applications of hand cream as a moisturiser.

Some will argue though, that using a nail strengthener is actually a bad thing because they chemically crosslink the nail plate. They can also make the nail more rigid and thus more prone to breakage. It is important therefore, that nails are kept flexible and moisturised with very few exceptions.
There are plenty of professional products that will actually strengthen nails while maintaining flexibility, but I'll save mentioning those for another day as I'm sure most of you don't want to be bored senseless with the list.

Some more tips:

Frequent nail splitting can be a sign of dehydration. Recommend to your client that they drink more fluids and use an oil designed to penetrate the nail plate. A WORD OF CAUTION: Tell them to take water. One of my clients went off on a bender and arrived home at 2 O'Clock in the morning telling her husband it was all my fault!

Long nails and pointed nails are usually weaker than "normal" shaped nails, and therefore require special attention. If your client prefers the long or pointed look, several coats of nail hardener will help minimise chipping and peeling of the nail enamel. Again, the important thing is to find something that protects and moisturises.

Regular use of nail polish can cause a yellowing discoloration of the nails. This is not considered damaging, but it is useful to keep in mind. If your client prefers the "natural look", use colour only occasionally.

Never clip nails to shorten them. Use an emery board to file nails down to size.

Use nail polish remover as infrequently as possible - especially those containing acetone. Most nail polish removers will dry nails out and should be used no more than once a week.

Apply a hand cream or lotion after washing hands since soaps tend to cause nails and skin to become very dry. Cuticles should remain moisturised with Vaseline or a moisturiser.

Never peel or scrape off nail polish or use metal instruments on the nail surface to push back the cuticles. This can scrape off the protective cells of the nail surface.

As we know, the cuticle protects the nail root from bacteria. Instead of cutting the cuticle, push it back gently with a rosewood stick or rubber - tipped cuticle-pusher. However, should the cuticle be hard and dry and sticking up, slightly trimming it is okay, but never remove the whole thing. Strong cuticle growth can be controlled with a cuticle softener or cuticle remover liquid.

That's it from me and if you have any questions at all I'll be popping back now and then and will do my best to answer them.

Deborah Whelan
http://www.aintnails.com

 

[taintz]

What a great post!
Very Informative Thanks.

 

[Glorsclaws]

Hi Deborah,
Welcome to the board.
Nice to have someone new to share info with, and I am sure you will find some useful information here yourself, as a professional.
A couple of points in your post that interest me are...

"Never peel or scrape off nail polish or use metal instruments on the nail surface to push back the cuticles. This can scrape off the protective cells of the nail surface".

Is this manicures you are referring to here? Im a bit confused as I have done several nail courses now and have always been taught to use a metal pushie (with care of course) when prepping the cuticle area for extensions!
Also,

"Cuticles should remain moisturised with Vaseline or a moisturiser".

I have a skin condition that leaves me with very dry areas, and was using Vaseline on my cracked lips. I suppose my Dr could be wrong but, he told me that Vaseline is a great barrier cream but can actually dehydrate dry skin further if used continuously, and that I should use something especially created for the job (balm).
Hope you dont mind me asking about these points ... you did invite :wink2:
Its just that my old brain gets a little confused with all the conflicting advice around regarding nails.

 

[mum]

Hi Deborah

Good to see you on the site .

You've listed some great tips, many of which I totally agree with. However, I do also agree with Gloria and her points.

Correct use of an appropriate cuticle tool is a much more efficient way of removing cuticle (which is the non-living layer of skin cells that are shed from under the nail fold). I'm not sure what you are referring to with the 'protective cells', maybe the 'true' cuticle? This would be affected by a 3 way buffer anyway and prevents a good bond between any varnish product and the natural nail.

As Gloria mentioned, Vaseline (as a petroleum jelly) is a barrier and cannot penetrate the skin.

I hope you stick around to help us Geeks out and also hope you don't mind my comments. I would say that the majority of Geeks here will have been taught to use a metal cuticle tool and a 'never use' could be confusing.

Marian

 

[absolutly fab!]

having read all of the above some very great tips and comments. Are you an educator or teach in a collage? What product range do you use?-- Points for debster as we know geeg profile!!!!!!!!!

 

[marie111]

Very interested in a couple of peoples postings on vaseline as I had a septoplasty (op on my septum) and my sinuses burned to reduce the size and was told by my surgeon to place plenty of vaseline up my nose and snort it up 3 times daily to keep the area moist.
Apologies to anyone who is having their tea.
It does seem to work because if I forget to do it it is noticeably drier.

 

[mum]

Very interested in a couple of peoples postings on vaseline as I had a septoplasty (op on my septum) and my sinuses burned to reduce the size and was told by my surgeon to place plenty of vaseline up my nose and snort it up 3 times daily to keep the area moist.
Apologies to anyone who is having their tea.
It does seem to work because if I forget to do it it is noticeably drier.

Hi Marie

I love a bit of gore (not that your nose is of course!!) but not a lot put me off my tea.

I would guess that the Vaseline worked because you nose is lined with a different type of skin (we could even go a bit technical and call it epithelial tissue! I think, anyway ) It is more like a mucous membrane (obvious reasons) and also has all the little hairs to catch particles.

Vaseline, as a barrier, stops things getting out as well as getting in. So in your case, I think it just helped the mucous to build up for a while as it had been damaged with the surgery.

A guess but it sounds possible to me.

Marian

 

[marie111]

Thanks for that explanatian Marian, I've got another couple of months of doing this yet, glad I can get my vaseline cheap, going through quite a bit.

 

[mum]

Thanks for that explanatian Marian, I've got another couple of months of doing this yet, glad I can get my vaseline cheap, going through quite a bit.

You know that Vaseline is a brand name for 'petroleum jelly" I'm sure? If not, have a look at 'own label' PJ in the supermarkets cos you may get it even cheaper!

M
x

 

[linzi]

I suppose my Dr could be wrong but, he told me that Vaseline is a great barrier cream but can actually dehydrate dry skin further if used continuously, and that I should use something especially created for the job (balm).

Hi Gloria,
Your doctor is right, vaseline is mineral based which isn't good for the skin. It will create a thin film (and won't absorb into the body) on the skin, and will appear to leave it moisturised. This film, however will block pores (slowing the skin's ability to eliminate toxins) and prevent the skin's own, natural protection (the acid mantle) from functioning properly.
Debster, it would be better to recommend a good quality, vegetable based oil.

 

[Jacky]

Never clip nails to shorten them. Use an emery board to file nails down to size

WHY?

 

[The Geek]

All righty then.

As some of you will remember; the other day I locked this thread as I felt that many of the responses went off topic and started getting ugly.

I locked it BECAUSE OF THE RESPONSES. In all honesty I really only glanced at the original post. After replying to the Vitamin E thread (as its now known as even though that too is way off topic) I decided to check this thread back out. Marian Newman had mentioned in a PM to me that it was a shame to close the thread as there was still much to discuss in it. Now I see she is totally right.

Therefore I am reopening this thread with SEVERAL of the previous posts deleted. Please keep things in perspective and constructive.

Here is my go:

Some healthy tips for professionals
There are plenty of professional products that will actually strengthen nails while maintaining flexibility

This is really just an aside... Strengthen is really the antonymn for flexability in this context. The stronger something is, the less it is flexible.
This is the inherint problem with strengtheners. The more they work, the less flex you get and the more brittle you get.

Frequent nail splitting can be a sign of dehydration. Recommend to your client that they drink more fluids and use an oil designed to penetrate the nail plate. A WORD OF CAUTION: Tell them to take water. One of my clients went off on a bender and arrived home at 2 O'Clock in the morning telling her husband it was all my fault!

Very true about the dehydration issue, however I think that there are issues that would contribute FAR more significantly than not drinking enough water.
The #1 reason for deydrated plates? Solvents. Most common solvent? Water. Sounds odd huh? People who wash their hands frequently, or use solvents frequently SHOULD ALWAYS WEAR ENHANCMENTS. At the very minimum, they should always wear enamel. This is to slwo down or prevent the oils being continually stripped out of the natural nail plate. Plates dry? Keep them coated and use plenty of Cuticle oil (as Debster mentioned... one that penetrates the natural nail, enamel, and enhancments).

Long nails and pointed nails are usually weaker than "normal" shaped nails, and therefore require special attention. If your client prefers the long or pointed look, several coats of nail hardener will help minimise chipping and peeling of the nail enamel. Again, the important thing is to find something that protects and moisturises.

THe longer a nail is, the less pressure it takes to snap it. Pointed nails are longer as you cant get a short point! Most people screw up making 'points' as they file into the sidewalls - this is why they are more likely to break.
If you want long or stilleto nails... wear enhancments. At least if one breaks you can repair it easier than a natural nail. IMO, I seldom ever see long natural nails I find attractive. Otherwise, (as Debster said) use a strengther and lots of something to mositurize the plate in an attempt to get a tough natural nail.

Regular use of nail polish can cause a yellowing discoloration of the nails. This is not considered damaging, but it is useful to keep in mind. If your client prefers the "natural look", use colour only occasionally.

I would disagree with this statement.
Enamels high in cheap dyes (to offset expensive pigments) are far more liekly to stain (not really yellowing). Staining will also greatly depend on loads of other factors: plate porosity, plate hydration, solvent used for removal, etc...
If you cant seem to remove the enamel... try pure acetone.

Never clip nails to shorten them. Use an emery board to file nails down to size.

That depends on grit. I would clip nails and then finish with a 240 grit or higher.

Use nail polish remover as infrequently as possible - especially those containing acetone. Most nail polish removers will dry nails out and should be used no more than once a week.

Frequent solvent use to remove enamels (more than once a week) can contribute to psudo leukonychia if oils are not used regularly. However IMO Acetone is far far far better to use for enamel remover.

Apply a hand cream or lotion after washing hands since soaps tend to cause nails and skin to become very dry. Cuticles should remain moisturised with Vaseline or a moisturiser.

Detergents and water remove oil from skin (which is there to lock moisture into skin). That is why hand washing is so drying to the skin (and why a good moisturizer should be used). However I would not encourage using a petrolium product to 'seal' the skin, I would instead recommend a professional humectant that will attract and bind moisture to the skin as well as a myraid of other options. Petrolium based products are not humectants and are very weak matches for todays highly sopphisticated lotions and potions.

Never peel or scrape off nail polish or use metal instruments on the nail surface to push back the cuticles. This can scrape off the protective cells of the nail surface.

Pretty good advice for customers however I have never witnessed a nail enamel that stuck well enough to the natural nail where nail plate cells would shed off trying to remove it!
Personally, Im not a big fan of sharp chisels and wedges for prep work though I think most trained pros can use them for that purpose without risk of damage.

As we know, the cuticle protects the nail root from bacteria. Instead of cutting the cuticle, push it back gently with a rosewood stick or rubber - tipped cuticle-pusher. However, should the cuticle be hard and dry and sticking up, slightly trimming it is okay, but never remove the whole thing. Strong cuticle growth can be controlled with a cuticle softener or cuticle remover liquid.

Sounds like there is a mix up here between the eponychium (living skin) and the cuticle (non living skin). I hope all nail professionals truly know the difference! Never ever cut living tissue (eponychium) unless you are a doctor or want to pass out free paronychia to every 4th customer. Always remove the cuticle with a cuticle remover and disinfected pusher. Only remove the cuticle up to but not past the eponychium.

I look forward to hearing anyone elses thoughts.

 

[Envy]

I think that sums it up just nicely thanks sam!

 

[Debster]

Hi Samuel,

I think yours is very balanced summary and my apologies to you and everyone else for not responding earlier. While a lot of the advice given in my opening post is based on hard learned experience, I'm going to add just a few final points rather than prolong this thread beyond its natural shelf life.

Clearly, you have a level of knowledge which has earned you great respect on this forum, however, we might be overlooking a few very important points here by virtue of our respective teaching roles.

The introduction of any chemical to the natural nail, be it acetone, ethyl methacrylate or any other solution for that matter, still has inherent risks and I dare say neither you or I are qualified enough to say there are none? Therefore, if anything can be done to minimise those risks, I will be the first one to stand up and say; I am that poisoned minority.

Neither of us need reminding that the skin absorbs most substances that are applied to it and this is particularly true of chemicals applied in and around the nails where the skin is very thin and has no dead skin horny layer to protect it. The blood flow to the nails is also extremely high so it's only fair to say we are potentially exposing our clients - including ourselves - to a cocktail of substances that we still know very little about.
Pseudo Leukonychia (white streaks or spots on the nails) is the very least of our worries when you consider the possible effects of exposure to these chemicals - even allowing for the use of masks and proper ventilation.
Until someone comes up with an easier method of filing, acetone will continue to evaporate straight up our noses - albeit quickly, which is no consolation - and the effect of cotton soaked chemicals day in day out is all too evident when you look at the withered hands of those who neglect to wear gloves or use plastic backed rubs.

For anyone else reading this and asking themselves, "well what do you recommend Debster?" let me answer that by saying; Sam's advice on the use of IMO Acetone is based on the assumption that these chemicals pose little or no risk and he's probably right. However, similar assurances were given by manufacturers back in the 80's when the question was posed; was acetone carcinogenic?
I'd like to think that concern has since been addressed, however, anything that says; "it does exactly what it says on the tin," and strips paint off nails can't possibly be good for you no matter what way you look at it.

Whatever about the long term effects of acetone or ethyl acetate; medical experts have even gone as far as to suggest prolonged use of nail extensions can lead to brain atrophy!?! And what does that mean some of you may ask? It means half our clients who wear extensions 24 x 7 are probably brain damaged but the Jury is still out with me on that one! Personally, I think asking a home client to sit in the freezing cold after you've opened all the windows in her front living room for ventilation is a lot worse, but that's just my opinion.

I promise I won't ever write such a long one again, but thanks for reading

Best wishes,
Debster

 

[The Geek]

Hi Debbie,

Hopefully my experience, knowledge and reputation have earned me respect here... after all, both www.samuelsweet.com and www.thenailgeek.com are me

You can expose the natural nail plate to damn near anything in the world and it poses no health risk. Why? Because the natural nail plate is as dead as a door knob and is as concerned about acetone exposure as a mouse is concerned about driving exams.

Skin exposure is a slightly (emphasized) different matter. The amount of exposure that nail technicians and especially clients have to Acetone is so tiny its a total non issue.

Overexposure is the real culprit you need to concern yourself with. Any prolonged and repeated exposure above and beyond safety limits is a concern. Acetone and EMA in the salon are not a concern when used as directed. This has been studied to death and has over 25 years of history to prove it.

Acetone (and EMA for that matter) are not carcinogens (there are actually very very few known 'carcinorgens'). Some people in certain industries had health problems attributed to overexposure to acetone (they were washing and bathing in it upwards of several times a day). That exposure compared with exposure in the salon is... well, not comparable.

I am not sure what you are trying to say in regards to the lack of horny layer(?) and high blood flow, etc... The fact is that nail enhancement products are very well studied and declared safe when used as directed. And as the only skin contact comes in the form of enamel removers and plate preparation products, I am not sure what type of health risk there is.

Just because something is brilliant at removing enamel doesn't make it dangerous in that context. Potato peelers are so freaking great at peeling potatoes... o dear! Just think what one could do to your nose! Yes, I am being cheeky but I hope it is making my point.

You references are really vague and unsubstantiated.
Recently, the CIR (an independent arm of the FDA) did yet another study on EMA and actually found that it was safer than even their earlier studies indicated! So safe in fact that most busy salons with little to no ventilation were 100-200 times below safety levels for inhalation exposure. So safe that the FDA has a limited approval on EMA nail enhancement products that can be purchased by consumers!

Now we can sit and play "well, in 50 years they may discover that doing nails makes you grow a third nipple in middle if your forehead" type of scenarios but the reality is that while you were filling up your car with petrol, you put yourself at a substantially higher health risk than you have working all month at the salon (most likely all year).
Your clients? Their exposure is about 80 times lower than yours. You may think your clients have brain damage, but I can promise it has nada to do with their nails.

Anyhoo... I hope this helps clarify some issues. My only key concern is that we all need to be careful not to scare people into thinking the sky is falling. The single biggest burden this industry has is the massive amounts of sensationalism and misinformation plaguing it.

PS- Pseudo Leukonychia is a temporary whiting of the natural nail plate due to temporary dehydration. Leukonychia spots are white marks in the nail plate caused (usually) by trauma. The white spots are large amounts of nail plate cells that never fully differentiated. True Leukonychia is complete whitening or streaking of the natural nail where nail plate cells produced by an area of the matrix never differentiate fully.

(just wanted clarification for others reading )

 

[Jacky]

yer see the reaon the clipping one got me was....Debster just said NEVER clip nails to shorten em....she never ever in the post said WHY?
(Thanks Marian for discussing it with me!)
Would Debster like to expand on the advice she gave on that subject?
Personally I have never found a problem with clipping nails providing the clipper is sharp and that any clipping to reduce length is not left. Filing with an appropriate grit...240 plus then I have many a happy manicure client!
:green:

 

[Lily]

Fab post Sam!!!


Nuff said!! I wanted to add that you had replied brilliantly and proffesionaly, its cleared alot of mis-understandings up from Debsters origional post!!!!

Amanda

 

[Sassy Hassy]

Okay Sam you asked for other people's thoughts so here's mine:

There are plenty of professional products that will actually strengthen nails while maintaining flexibility

Nailtiques do a great range of nail formulas which they rightly or wrongly call prescriptive (hell I don't want to start another debate!). When I did their training they said their formulas either condition the nail with little need for strengthening products(for brittle nails), or they strengthen with little need for conditioning products(for weak nails). Or one that has equal amounts of both (for "normal" nails). So you must use the right product for your nail type.

several coats of nail hardener will help minimise chipping and peeling of the nail enamel. Again, the important thing is to find something that protects and moisturises

Nailtiques actually peels like there is no tomorrow so if I used it as a base coat I would be inundated with complaints. A product like Orly's Bonder is what we use as it is designed to help prevent the nail polish from chipping and peeling. And as I have pointed out in my paragraph above, nail HARDENERS actually contains no moiusturisers (conditioners) - they are two seperate issues.

Never peel or scrape off nail polish or use metal instruments on the nail surface to push back the cuticles. This can scrape off the protective cells of the nail surface.

I think this comment is aimed at nail clients and not nail professionals - I am hardly likely to scrape or peel off my clients' nail polish. and I use the E_Z flow pro pusher which is my most cherished tool I have. I have been trained to use it properly and have NEVER done any damage to ANY client (only me when it slipped and it cut my eponychium - ouch)

 

[mum]

Well Mr GMG, the Highest Geekness!

Thank you for reopening this post. I really appreciate the fact that you are able to re-evaluate your decisions instead of the "Talk to the hand, I have spoken" attitude which so many people have.

One of the most important issues in this industry for me, and one that causes so much trouble, is the differentiation between actual facts (physical or researched and proved) and a mish-mash of wives tales, marketing stories, misinformation, brand techniques etc. We are still not at the stage where we can guarantee that actual facts are taught at base level then added to with brand techniques (know the rules then know how to 'enhance' them)

This thread had a lot of those that I believed valuable to discuss (emphasise discuss!) with the use of actual facts.

Debster, Sam has done a great job in discussing many of your points with supporting facts which I hope you find interesting. I have to say I agree with every point and I hope everyone realises that nothing in his answers is, IN ANY WAY , associated with any brand. (before the 'biase' accusations start)

My only addition (as more on the same is unnecessary) is that epidermis is epidermis. All that changes in different areas of the body is the thickness of specific layers (good example is the stratum lucidum on the palms and soles). Around the nail there is the horny layer, just maybe not as thick as other areas.

There is a very recent (and from the UK as opposed to US) bit of research on levels of solvents in nail salons and whether safe levels are being exceeded. I am sure the results will be in one (or both) of the trade mags after the HABIA meeting on Wed. I have the document and can safely say 'don't panic'! Just follow the correct working practices.

Marian

 

[Sassy Hassy]

I am not sure if COSSH (the control of substances hazardous to health) is just a Uk thing, but I'm sure most countries will have a similar body, so with regard to the acetone issue (or any of the nail products we use, let's face it) as long as a product is used correctly without risks of over exposure, and as directed by the manufacturer then all professional nail products are effectively as safe as we can get them. It is only in the hands of a poorly trained amateur that these products pose a risk, not a professional. We professionals know that some of the products we use are hazardous and so ensure that they are used correctly.