Wella thread

[philipxxx]

It's all Virgin in that pic she had lighter ends due to the sun she has since hat it cut into a short bob

 

[cassies97]

It's all Virgin in that pic she had lighter ends due to the sun she has since hat it cut into a short bob

Ahh right yeah 12/61 should be ok.

 

[philipxxx]

Thankyou for your help I just get nervous using cool toned highlifts on lighter hair

 

[cassies97]

Thankyou for your help I just get nervous using cool toned highlifts on lighter hair

If anything i'd expect a highlift to not go cool enough.

But you can always tone afterwards.

 

[philipxxx]

Have u ever used 12/89

 

[cassies97]

Have u ever used 12/89

Yeah, i love it, but if you're lifting on a base 8 there usually isn't much orange if any. /8 is blue, blue + yellow = green. But you could mix 12/61 with 12/89 that'd be nice.

 

[suzi2785]

If a client is a base 6 or below and want a hi lift looking colour would your have to bleach then tone ? ( if tinting you could only use up to a 10 right ? High lifts are for level 7 and above am I right ??)

 

[cassies97]

If a client is a base 6 or below and want a hi lift looking colour would your have to bleach then tone ? ( if tinting you could only use up to a 10 right ? High lifts are for level 7 and above am I right ??)

If your client pointed to a 12 line colour on the chart then yeah you would bleach and tone.

But no i use highlift on any base, it just wont always get it to a 10.

7's and above will get to a 10, more than likely depending on contributing pigment.

6 at a push may get to a 10 but its not that likely, usually a 8-9.

5 and below will not get to a 10.

 

[suzi2785]

Thanks cams 😀

 

[cassies97]

Thanks cams 😀

Oh a good tip too is upping your special mix to suit what you're gonna lift to. Heres an example...

Say we have a client who's a natural level 4 and they want to be an 8, now we know that regular KP can lift up to 3 levels, so we need to switch to a special blonde. That should get it to a 7-8, BUT special blonde shades are designed to neutralise the pigment load on a level 10 which doesn't have as dense a pigment as a level 7-8. So what we can do is add special mix to compensate for that.

So from a 4 you'll see red and orange, you probably wont even see the undertone of a level 8 because theres so much pheomelanin left behind.

But because you're doubling the developer everything gets diluted so we need to also double our pigment load to compensate for that!

So i would use 12/81...
Then according to the rule of 11 which tells us how much special mix to add depending on depth (subtract the depth from 11 and you'll get how many centimetres of special mix you need to add per 30g of kp) i need to add 3cm on a depth 8 but I'm doubling it so i need to add 6cm, id probably use 0/81 and a dot of 0/28 for the red we dont need much of that cause i find its pretty strong then the 8 in the /28 will help again with all the orange.

So our formula is 30g 12/81 + 6cm (3g) 0/81 and a dot of 0/28.

Hope that made sense and helps😂 sorry if ive really confused anyone.

 

[suzi2785]

A tad confused hahah
Trying to get my head around it all
I keep re reading your original post but so hard I don't have a full color chart to look and see ( I'm a more a visual leaner ) in going out today to get some colors and have a play on the dolls head
Not sure if it's the same over there but wella make a brand called clariol woukd the same rules apply? ( wella make it and same numbering system to)

 

[tsparker78]

A tad confused hahah
Trying to get my head around it all
I keep re reading your original post but so hard I don't have a full color chart to look and see ( I'm a more a visual leaner ) in going out today to get some colors and have a play on the dolls head
Not sure if it's the same over there but wella make a brand called clariol woukd the same rules apply? ( wella make it and same numbering system to)

Noo clairol is a different animal.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[suzi2785]

Ooh really ok just thought I would check lol

 

[cassies97]

A tad confused hahah
Trying to get my head around it all
I keep re reading your original post but so hard I don't have a full color chart to look and see ( I'm a more a visual leaner ) in going out today to get some colors and have a play on the dolls head
Not sure if it's the same over there but wella make a brand called clariol woukd the same rules apply? ( wella make it and same numbering system to)

Basically the darker the depth gets, the denser the pigment is, or the heavier the pigment is. So when you lift with a highlift on a darker base you dont get enough neutralisation because theres so much orange and the 12 line is made to neutralise on the depth of a 10 cause thats what you're most commonly using it to lift to.

I have no idea about clairol haha😂

 

[suzi2785]

I used some wella today I liked it 👍

 

[cassies97]

I used some wella today I liked it 👍

What did you use?

 

[suzi2785]

Foiled my hair then toned with 10/69 toned beautifully

 

[cassies97]

Just giving this a bump so it doesn't end up getting lost.

 

[suzi2785]

Good idea cams

 

[suzi2785]

Is there a recommended time to leave the toner on if you are using illumina ? You know how some take in minutes and others you can leave 10+ minutes