Balayage toning help please

[kellymarie_85]

Hi all,

I have a client coming to me next week wanting a balayage. She already has coloured hair but slightly greying roots (natural and coloured hair is around a base 6-7). My plan is to use Koleston 6/7 on the roots, balayage with Blondor, rinse all off, then tone with 8/7 through the middle to a 9/7 at the ends, so it's a nice, warm, gradual colour.

My question is... I know I can use Pastel developer with 9/7 to tone, but can I use it with 8/7? Or would I be better off using 6%? Otherwise, would I be better off mixing up the same/similar shades with Colour Touch to tone (I don't think the exact shades exist, but I can mix up something that comes close)? What would you guys do?

Thanks in advance

 

[cassies97]

Colour touch will give more shine and be less harsh so I'd go with that and 1.9%.

Might I suggest you use something slightly cooler just as warm on raw bleached hair may not end well. 8/71 and 9/97 or 9/36 perhaps?

 

[kellymarie_85]

That's great, thank you for your help I'll go for something a little cooler on the ends in that case. Will using Colour Touch affect the staying power? I can't imagine it would as Pastel is also 1.9% and works fine.

Excuse my ignorance, but why might a warm tone not end well? I qualified over 16 years ago, and we didn't have half the techniques and products then as we do now - I also never worked in a trendy salon! I've had some colour theory training as a refresher lately, but I'm kind of learning all over again (I was out of a salon for nearly 15 years).

Thank you again for your help.

 

[cassies97]

It'll probably fade less than a permanent would as the hair will be more porous after bleaching. So no it wont affect the staying power.

Well, its just that you'll be exposing a lot of warmth when lifting, even more so with a balayage as it'll never lift as clean as if you had it in foils for example (due to the product saturation). So if you put a warm colour over that raw undertone it'll just be even warmer. Rather than having an 8/7 you'll have an 8/37 as the yellow hasnt been neutralised or at least subued. I hope that makes sense!

 

[kellymarie_85]

Ah, that's brilliant - thank you so much for your help!

Yes, that makes perfect sense. I did actually think about it after my last post and thought that it's basically a double warm tone - I think I'm having a bit of a baby brain day! But having you explain it too really helps and confirms that I'm pretty much on the right track.

Thank you, and enjoy the rest of your evening

 

[cassies97]

Ah, that's brilliant - thank you so much for your help!

Yes, that makes perfect sense. I did actually think about it after my last post and thought that it's basically a double warm tone - I think I'm having a bit of a baby brain day! But having you explain it too really helps and confirms that I'm pretty much on the right track.

Thank you, and enjoy the rest of your evening

Glad I could help!

Same to you[emoji4]