Bleached & toned hair turning yellow in a week

[Rahlouise]

Level 5 professionally coloured hair
Bleached (with Olaplex)
Toned with Wella 10/86
Roots (virgin hair) were perfect, mids needed another go as expected.
Toned again with Wella 10/86. Turned out perfectly.
Washed with Paul Mitchell Super Strong & purple shampoo, within a week, went yellow.

4 weeks later, re-bleached made it more yellow.

Client is a vegan, not on any medication & healthy.

Any suggestions as to what is making it go yellow? Old colour? Diet? Shampoo?

 

[ronray]

Level 5 professionally coloured hair
Bleached (with Olaplex)
Toned with Wella 10/86
Roots (virgin hair) were perfect, mids needed another go as expected.
Toned again with Wella 10/86. Turned out perfectly.
Washed with Paul Mitchell Super Strong & purple shampoo, within a week, went yellow.

4 weeks later, re-bleached made it more yellow.

Client is a vegan, not on any medication & healthy.

Any suggestions as to what is making it go yellow? Old colour? Diet? Shampoo?

After bleaching from her level 5 what did it lift to? I'm wondering if the hair was light enough, especially as you mentioned you needed to tone twice. If the hair is only a level 8 or 9 (when you would see yellow) then 10/86 wouldn't be pigmented enough to neutralise the warmth and leave you with a long lasting cool result. What is the condition of the hair like? What shampoo and conditioner is she using? Is she using heat protection? Does she use high heat styling tools?
Does she live in a hard water area? So many questions I know, but all these could be contributing factors.

 

[Rahlouise]

After bleaching from her level 5 what did it lift to? I'm wondering if the hair was light enough, especially as you mentioned you needed to tone twice. If the hair is only a level 8 or 9 (when you would see yellow) then 10/86 wouldn't be pigmented enough to neutralise the warmth and leave you with a long lasting cool result. What is the condition of the hair like? What shampoo and conditioner is she using? Is she using heat protection? Does she use high heat styling tools?
Does she live in a hard water area? So many questions I know, but all these could be contributing factors.

It lifted to about an 8/9. We knew it may not work first time just toning at that level.

My concern is when the second lot of bleach was on (4 weeks later) it looked white, scraped a bit off, still looked white, washed it off and it was bright yellow. I can’t work out if it’s underlying colour or shampoo, or something else that’s making it go back to yellow.

Condition of the hair is very good.

She used Paul Mitchell super strong.

Yes she used heat protection (can’t remember which one mind)

Yes she does use styling tools.

Not sure about water. Would have to look into that.

 

[ronray]

It lifted to about an 8/9. We knew it may not work first time just toning at that level.

My concern is when the second lot of bleach was on (4 weeks later) it looked white, scraped a bit off, still looked white, washed it off and it was bright yellow. I can’t work out if it’s underlying colour or shampoo, or something else that’s making it go back to yellow.

Condition of the hair is very good.

She used Paul Mitchell super strong.

Yes she used heat protection (can’t remember which one mind)

Yes she does use styling tools.

Not sure about water. Would have to look into that.

How long is her hair, do you know the colour history from the last 5 years?
There could be a residue of something on the m.l.e that has caused staining.
How long are you leaving the bleach on for?
Are you using white bleach? I find this better, because the blue hues of blue bleach sometimes give you a false impression of the actual colour.

Next thought could she be burning her hair? Most people still whack the straighteners on 220-230 and don't realise the damage that does to sensitised hair.
You could try either malabu c miracle makeover or colour wow dream filter, before applying any more lightener or toners and see if that helps, if so it's more likely to be water, heat damage, or product build up.

 

[Rahlouise]

How long is her hair, do you know the colour history from the last 5 years?
There could be a residue of something on the m.l.e that has caused staining.
How long are you leaving the bleach on for?
Are you using white bleach? I find this better, because the blue hues of blue bleach sometimes give you a false impression of the actual colour.

Next thought could she be burning her hair? Most people still whack the straighteners on 220-230 and don't realise the damage that does to sensitised hair.
You could try either malabu c miracle makeover or colour wow dream filter, before applying any more lightener or toners and see if that helps, if so it's more likely to be water, heat damage, or product build up.

Her hair is shoulder length.

Yes I do know the history. It’s been professionally dyed level 5, with a bit of bleach on the ends.

Bleach first time around 30mins. Second time only about 10mins. Didn’t expect it to go more yellow than when I started. It was blue bleach however.

 

[ronray]

Her hair is shoulder length.

Yes I do know the history. It’s been professionally dyed level 5, with a bit of bleach on the ends.

Bleach first time around 30mins. Second time only about 10mins. Didn’t expect it to go more yellow than when I started. It was blue bleach however.

To me it sounds like the hair hasn't lifted enough.
I would say the mid lengths were only lifted to an 8 maybe a 9 but no lighter, then you've toned (technically applying an artificial colour) then reapplied bleach for only 10 minutes. Ten minutes was barely enough to pull the toner out, never mind lift the hair any lighter. If the hair is health enough I would lighten again, with a white bleach and either 3% or 4% and leave for at least 30 mins. If you are open air processing you'll need to take that in to consideration when choosing your bleach. A regular bleach will probably dry out too quick and stop lifting unless it's enclosed in foil or meches. Take a look at a cream bleach or clay bleach these will create an enclosure for the hair to process inside the "shell" / dried out bleach, but will keep the inside moist allowing it to process. When checking the colour it will be a truer reflection of what the hair has lifted like vs using blue or violet bleach. Once you have lifted to a level 10, pre tone the hair with violet shampoo and then apply your 10/86. Good luck.

 

[LeeRodgers]

This used to happen me a lot when i first started global bleaching! I never let the hair lift light enough, and the lightener at the time always made the hair appear pale and the correct level 10 shade, however when washed the hair would be bright yellow! Only a level 8/9.

Toner a level lighter never lasts, mainly as it is not made for that level! You'll get a ashier result, and a more controlled tone by applying the correct level and tone onto the hair.

Lighten the hair again with 10vol using a virgin hair technique. (mids and ends first, then hitting the roots) really lay on that lighter in thin sections - 30mins to 45mins. Keep a close eye and reapply if the lightener dries out. Once you rinse, analyse the hair. if it's still only a level 9, use a 9 violet/blue toner. or if you achieve a full level 10, follow through with your original toner.
i'm L'Oreal trained, so it'd be 9.02 or 9.21 for level 9 and my good old faithful 10.12 for level 10

Hope you get sorted! Some client's hair is just super hard to lift!

 

[Gingernats741]

Out of interest, is the client using Super Strong conditioner? The cuticle will be left wide open if not, that range has to be used exclusively.

 

[chb3284]

This will sound mad! Have you seen Guy Tangs video on how heat can affect colour and pretty much burn it. It can cause white hair to turn yellow and this can be from using hot water to wash hair, hairdryer tools etc. Definitely worth a look xx

 

[bronzebrunette]

I use MyDentity Big9 creme lightener for all my scalp bleach applications and it’s been fab for getting great lift