Blonde to cool brown?

[mirella92]

Hi, I have another pre pig question.... I am a new hairdresser and have a bit problems with it. Mostly I am insecure. I appreciate your help!

I have a client who has level 8 bleached blonde hair, natural flat 6 and wants "Olivia Palermo"'s golden brown. (5.3) I use Loreal and Wella in the salon.

Because she hates overly warm browns and wants just the golden to shine through I thought pre pig with Loreal Dialight just like instructions say 6.3 and than a 5.3 dia richesse? What do you think? Or the 5.31 would be better? I am afraid it will turn green without some copper or red in it.

 

[MabelBaby]

The judgement needs to come after the dialight to see how much it takes on the bleach but after filling if she doesn’t want it too warm go in with the base 5. Not 5.3. Or half 5 half 5.3. Olivia is very warm in some pics it’s an interesting choice of inspiration!

 

[mirella92]

Thanks, MabelBaby : )

Unfortunately it turned nothing like she wanted it, but I warned her that it can take maybe 2 sittings to acheave the look from the pic. I pre pigged with 6.3 dialight and it already turned very dark and warm for a level 6. Than I put a mix of 5 N and 6 N and a bit of 5.3 richesse with 9 vol. For me it turned a great colour, on the ashy side, but a bit dark. She will come in a few weeks again and I plan putting a 6N/6.01 or 6.31 on.

Does a golden brown ever turn brown with golden? I think the gold in the browns never hine through like gold, but turnes orange or red. Maybe I just suck in colour. I am better at cutting.

 

[AcidPerm]

You are over saturating the hair with colour by re-applying colour at a similar level. That why it looks much darker than the level you were trying to achieve.

Pre-pigging is about applying the missing colours - red, copper or gold. You can buy products especially for pre-pigging and it makes re-formulating with your final formula so much more successful. I’d never use a permanent colour to pre-pig.

Colouring hair isn’t about choosing a colour from a swatch collection and then applying it. That’s what clients do at home and why they get into a mess so frequently. Unless your client has white hair, they will already have some colour in their hair (virgin or artificial) and you need to consider this carefully before deciding what formula to mix to reach your target shade.

I recommend you play around with some spare hair (collect hair that’s been cut), stick tape around the top to keep it together and try out different formulas to see what results you get. It will help your understanding of colouring.