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Colour stripper advice

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AJSinger

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Hi, I need a bit of advice please? So a new client would like to go lighter. I have not seen her yet, I am seeing her Friday for a consultation. She just told me she has been box dying for years and uses live colours, black, black blue, red, violet! So I dread to think how much colour build up is in her hair which scares me a little! She would prefer balayage and I think that is the best approach. I’ve warned her it will take time and I will be doing a strand test. As I said, I haven’t seen her yet so I do not know what level she is. But before I see her I just want some advice on colour strippers please? I’ve never had to use them before and I feel like it’s going to be my best approach
Any advice on the best ones to use ? Thanks I’m advance
 

Haircutz

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I’d use a colour reducer to get rid of the build up, but you might need to re-apply 2-3 times to remove most of it. However, it also means that your client will likely reach their target colour at this lengthy appointment so you should feel comfortable charging properly for the service.

This should answer the most common questions.


Don’t forget that some box dyes contain metallic salts so consider doing an incompatibility test too when strand testing.
 

AJSinger

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Thanks, I was actually just reading that colour reducer vs stripper. Are the reducers a lot less damaging to the hair then? Is it okay to apply 2 to 3 times in one appointment? A few hairdressers I have spoken to have said try lifting a strand (when I do a strand test) with some bleach to see how it lifts but I am just worried about adding bleach to over processed box dyed hair. I have never done an incompatibility test before? So should I try one of your recommended colour reducers and test that first on a strand, see how it goes after a few attempts?

I notice you have said on your thread about the reducers and strippers to apply a tint to achieve the desired outcome. She has sent me a balayage photo. Is it realistic I will be able to then apply a tint (2 shades lighter than what I want to achieve, is that right? So if she wants a level 6 for example I need to apply a level 8?) and then highlights on the middle and ends with bleach and possibly tone no doubt to get the balayage look she wants? I am more than comfortable doing a balayage but I have never had to strip out box dyed hair before. She mentioned black so I am concerned about how dark she is, will find out when I see her Friday. Thanks so much for your advice.
 

AJSinger

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Sorry another question, I am just reading how to use the Affinage Eraser and it mentions using their Affinage Creme Developer at Stage 3. Do you have to use their brand? Also says their branded developer must be used to applying tint afterwards?! And do you have to do stage 3 if you are doing it 2 to 3 times? Can you just do Step 1 and 2 a couple of times and then Step 3?

Just actually been looking at some info on the Affinage and it does not work on the "LIVE" off the shelf colours which is what she has used. So I am back to square one. I cannot afford to buy a heap of different colour removers and test them all to see which one works. I dont know what to do :( !!! I have never done a bleach bath before, they do not sound nice. Not sure how to approach this to be honest
 
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ronray

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Colour remover /reducers may not work on live xxl, to be honest there isn't much that will. I think your first step should be malibu c crystal gel treatment. This will remove any product build up,, mineral deposits and any barriers on the hair. Then you could go in with a colour remover. Yes you would follow step3 each time, as this is how you'll discover how much of the darker tint is left in the hair. After you've completed the remover, then you can go ahead and create your balayage. It's going to a be a mammoth task and won't be cheap for the client. When I've don't them myself in the past I have just used a generic developer in step 3, then used the matching developer to the shade I'm applying.
 

AJSinger

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Okay thanks for the advice. She has messaged me this morning and decided not to go ahead anyway she is going to grow it out first which is probably best anyway
 

saignatescu

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I have used Schwarzkopf colour remover to strip black box dye and also on red hair and it works very well. It did not damage the hair but I have to say if you touch the roots (virgin hair) it will lighten it like bleach so don’t get very close to the regrowth.
 

AJSinger

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That is good to know thank you. I wanted to go ahead and do it as I wanted the experience. But she wants to wait which is the sensible option I think.
 

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