Confusion on overlay, builder & sculpting gels

[BellsGels]

Hi, I am new to this site and to the industry and am researching on what type of gels I should invest in to use with nail tip extensions. I had a kit of which I used builder gel with my own extensions and lasted really well, however, before some training I attended recently where I had to come without any extensions, they were hellish to get off and my nails are now weak and brittle. I'm not sure whether its because the system I've used is possibly not soak off but it doesn't state o the pot. Anyhow, I was then advised that builder gel was in fact only used for sculptor forms and that I should just buy and overlay gel in clear and/or pink. It then made me think this was why I had a nightmare getting the builder gel off with extensions. However, whilst researching, it seems builder gel IS used on tips but I then came across sculpting gel, hard gel, soft gel and now I'm really confused. Even when looking for overlay gels, I'm not clear on what I should buy - is it just named 'clear gel', any advice would be much appreciated cause even after training, it appears one method is used and after research another method is used. Please help!!

 

[Wee Fee]

Hello there and welcome to SalonGeek!
I'm not surprised you are confused, there is a lot of information out there and much of it is contradictory. It takes a little experience to be able to navigate confidently through the large and diverse professional nail industry we have today.
Bear in mind that different companies give different names to their products, not because there is some standard naming code they have to adhere to, but because it suits them and their product range at the time. Some companies choose to use the most commonly used terms to name their products and some choose to use new and different sounding names to help set themselves apart - which is all very well and good, but they don't go into a pan-brand glossary unfortunately. So navigating all this when you are new to the industry is much easier with a tour guide! That's where SalonGeek can come in very handy. It's also a good idea to find some impartial Facebook groups, such as this one:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/NailProfessionalsTechnical/


To answer your question, here is a little Gel terms glossary:

Permanent Gel, Buff-Off Gel
- A gel that does not remove (soak-off) in solvents like acetone and needs to be filed off. Usually available in clear, pink opaque pink and white but can be mixed with glitter or pigments to customise the colour.

Removable Gel, Soak Off Gel (SOG)
- A gel that can be removed in acetone. Usually requires a little filing first before soaking, but not always. Usually available in clear, pink opaque pink and white but can be mixed with glitter or pigments to customise the colour. Some companies manufacture soak off gels that are already pigmented and sell them as a range of 'coloured gels').

Hard Gel, Sculpting Gel
- A gel that can be sculpted to create structure, i.e, an apex. Can be used with Sculpting Forms, Tips or simply straight on to the natural nail. Can come in a permanent or a removable form. Usually available in clear, pink opaque pink and white but can be mixed with glitter or pigments to customise the colour.
'Builder Gel' could go into this category.

Soft Gel
- In my opinion a pretty out of date term that doesn't really tell us anything. Could mean a soak off as opposed to a buff off gel, but could also mean overlay gel, both of which come in removable or permanent forms.

Overlay Gel
- Intended to be applied in an even layer over the natural nail. That is, not for extending length and not for building structure/an apex. Usually available in clear and could be mixed with glitter or pigments to customise the colour. Some companies manufacture overlay gels that are already pigmented and sell them as a range of 'coloured gels').

Can anyone else add to this? Give us a second opinion?

 

[Wee Fee]

Oh, and I meant to say. By far the best way to cut through all the confusion is to find one brand you love, who has a product at every level of service from basic natural nail care, right up to structured nail enhancement products and everything in between. For me a company's products are only any good if they are supported by excellent, brand specific education that's regularly updated and consistent all over the country. I've been working professionally in this industry for 16 years and for me the only brand that truly offers all this is CND.

That's not to say that other brands don't make great products or have fab educators, but in terms of a whole package, supporting and partnering with the Nail Professional, nobody does it better

 

[BellsGels]

Hi, thank you so much for you reply and understanding !!! Your breakdown of gels is really useful and much clearer now. SO, just to confirm, I can use Builder Gel (or sculpting gel) with tips but I just need to make sure I get soak off if I do not wish it to be permanent or a file/buff down gel. I applied a builder with my own which were a nightmare to get off so these must've been permanent!.
AND, is it the overlay gels that are just labelled 'clear gel' or pink gel' or white gel' in a pot? Is it also still possible to use just an overlay gel to form your apex with a tip as well and if I do use this would I need a base coat of any sort ?

It was on my training that we used 'clear gel' and it was then that they said the builder gel was used for 'forms or sculpting' Hence why im querying all these things!!

Appreciating all your advise right now!
Rach

 

[Smuff]

Hard gel is a term used for any buff off only gels and come in builder/sculpting/capping/base/top. And can be in any colour. Capping gel is usually used on natural nails as a strengthening product.

Soft/soak off gel is a term used for any gel that can be removed via chemical breakdown (acetone). These also come in the variants above and colours. Yes you can use them in exactly the same way as a hard gel, but beware that because they are porous when the surface is broken then breakdown happens s lot quicker than hard gels and tend not to be quite as strong.

 

[BellsGels]

Thanks for your input, that makes total sense now and DOES explain why I had a mare taking my own off. So from this I would then offer the client the choice of a more permanent false nail or a soak off that can be more easily removed. I already have Ibd strong builder gel so can anyone recommend a soft gel to use on tips that still hold well until soaked off?

 

[Smuff]

Thanks for your input, that makes total sense now and DOES explain why I had a mare taking my own off. So from this I would then offer the client the choice of a more permanent false nail or a soak off that can be more easily removed. I already have Ibd strong builder gel so can anyone recommend a soft gel to use on tips that still hold well until soaked off?

I think Brisa light by CND is popular in this forum. ASP also do a soak if gel.

 

[BellsGels]

Yeah, I keep seeing CND Brisa Light. We used Cuccio on training but it seemed to peel quite easily. Not sure If that's because my nails are quite weak at the moment, r the product isn't that great.

 

[Smuff]

Yeah, I keep seeing CND Brisa Light. We used Cuccio on training but it seemed to peel quite easily. Not sure If that's because my nails are quite weak at the moment, r the product isn't that great.

I use ASP which is the same as cuccio. It's a great product but can feel rubbery.