ornate
Member
I now completly agree with you hadnt done my own test against the 2, im now a olaplex stockest and would prefer to pay for the real thing than a knock off, the knock off sales ppl can be pretty convincing though!!!
Cureplex
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HappyStylist
New Member
In my booklet of Cureplex N-acetyl-L-cycteine is described as a compound that forms bonds with the cysteine in hair. So thats how Cureplex works chemically I think.
Would it work like that in your opinion, Jordanstylist?
Would it work like that in your opinion, Jordanstylist?
jordanstylist
Well-Known Member
N-acetyl cysteine, or NAC is generally used as a supplement for hair loss. Most commonly, doctors might prescribe this drug as an inhalant to treat mucus buildup. NAC may also provide antioxidants that help to combat aging factors, such as hair loss. Hair loss is a medical issue and entirely different than preventing and repairing damage. In addition, with NAC products, the problem is that visible hair is not living. It has already been created, and it cannot incorporate L-cysteine into its structure. And unless you leave the product on your scalp 24 hours a day, the L-cysteine is not going to seep into the follicle that produces the hair, which uses glycine and tyrosine in greater amounts than L-cysteine.
cassies97
Well-Known Member
@jordanstylist any updates on olaplex in the UK yet?
Can us mobile hairdressers order yet?[emoji16][emoji3]
Sugarplumfaery
Well-Known Member
Cam let's try Aston & Fincher
cassies97
Well-Known Member
Just had a search on there and I can't find anything
jordanstylist
Well-Known Member
Give Aston and Fincher a call. They launched within the past few days working with Star Qualities Ltd.
Scott Breed
Active Member
First of all, for full disclosure, I am an employee of colorpHlex.
I am compelled to weigh in on this discussion to add some information and clear some misinformation. There have been several posted comparison "tests" of colorpHlex with Olaplex and other products posted on the internet. Unfortunately these test are not very telling to the general public and, in fact, are misleading. Below is an explanation of why.
THE TESTS
In these tests individuals are usually taking four (4) strands of hair and processing them with four (4) different formulas as follows:
One swatch bleached with powdered bleach and 40 vol. developer (H2O2).
A second swatch bleached with the same mixture plus Olaplex.
A third swatch bleached with the same mixture and colorpHlex.
And a fourth swatch bleached with another additive of some type.
THE RESULTS
The results showed that:
Swatch #1 (No Additive) is lightened and has the normal damage due to bleaching.
Swatch #2 (Olaplex) is in good shape but not as light as the other swatches.
Swatch #3 (colorpHlex) is as light as Swatch #1 but in much better condition.
Swatch #4 produced varying results depending on the additive being "tested" by that individual.
WHAT DOES THE TEST SHOW
The problem is that these experiments are obviously amateurish and poorly designed for the purpose, plus the results were not properly extrapolated and, therefore, incorrect.
Olaplex official instructions say to increase the volume of developer and add at least 10 minutes to the processing time. If this is done in the comparison test, then the colorpHlex bleach is being left on at least 10 minutes too long with developer that is 10 vol. too high. This is obviously not a proper assessment assessment of colorpHlex nor a proper comparison.
THE REALITY
colorpHlex does not slow down the coloring and/or lightening process. It simply protects and repairs the damage that normally occurs in the hair during hair-coloring and bleaching. The colorpHlex swatch was likely completely lightened 10 to 20 minutes earlier than the Olaplex (depending on temperature), and the bleach should have been removed at that time. The key ingredient in colorpHlex is the ColorStrong ComplexTM, which is a naturally derived vegetable protein complex and does not interfere with the processing of the hair color or bleach.
Because colorpHlex does not interfere with the chemical processes of coloring or bleaching the hair, colorists are instructed to not increase the volume of their developer (H2O2) nor to increase the processing time. The colorist is also instructed to watch the color/bleach development just as they normally would. The result is great color and great hair in the normal amount of time.
Anyone interested in a real scientific test showing what colorpHlex is capable of doing should visit colorpHlex.com and go to the tab marked "The Technology" and click on the menu item "Anti-Breakage Report" (http://colorphlex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/15124-ColorpHlex-Anti-Breakage-Report1.pdf). This is a report on the scientific tests conducted by an independent research lab, that shows that hair bleached with colorpHlex was as strong or stronger than the same hair BEFORE it was bleached. We are not aware of any such study done by any other color strengthening additive in the world.
Speaking of the world, colorpHlex is manufactured in the USA and distributed world-wide. We have been available in the UK since April of this year.
As for colorpHlex being a "knock-off", clearly the chemistry is different as evidenced by the facts above. Olaplex deserves recognition for being a pioneer in this product category, but if colorpHlex was just a "copy cat", it would be used the same way (increasing the strength of the developer by 10 volume and adding 10 minutes to the processing time) and you would get the same results.
One final thing, colorpHlex does form a covalent (chemical) with the radical cysteic acid side chains that are produces in these oxidative services and are responsible for much of the damage that occurs during the coloring and lightening processes. These bonds can not be broken with simple shampooing and rinsing with water. colorpHlex also polymerizes in the hair to create additional strength and abrasion resistance while helping to maintain the natural moisture factor of the hair.
Best of success serving your salon clients with the best color strengthening additive on the market - colorpHlex.
I am compelled to weigh in on this discussion to add some information and clear some misinformation. There have been several posted comparison "tests" of colorpHlex with Olaplex and other products posted on the internet. Unfortunately these test are not very telling to the general public and, in fact, are misleading. Below is an explanation of why.
THE TESTS
In these tests individuals are usually taking four (4) strands of hair and processing them with four (4) different formulas as follows:
One swatch bleached with powdered bleach and 40 vol. developer (H2O2).
A second swatch bleached with the same mixture plus Olaplex.
A third swatch bleached with the same mixture and colorpHlex.
And a fourth swatch bleached with another additive of some type.
THE RESULTS
The results showed that:
Swatch #1 (No Additive) is lightened and has the normal damage due to bleaching.
Swatch #2 (Olaplex) is in good shape but not as light as the other swatches.
Swatch #3 (colorpHlex) is as light as Swatch #1 but in much better condition.
Swatch #4 produced varying results depending on the additive being "tested" by that individual.
WHAT DOES THE TEST SHOW
The problem is that these experiments are obviously amateurish and poorly designed for the purpose, plus the results were not properly extrapolated and, therefore, incorrect.
Olaplex official instructions say to increase the volume of developer and add at least 10 minutes to the processing time. If this is done in the comparison test, then the colorpHlex bleach is being left on at least 10 minutes too long with developer that is 10 vol. too high. This is obviously not a proper assessment assessment of colorpHlex nor a proper comparison.
THE REALITY
colorpHlex does not slow down the coloring and/or lightening process. It simply protects and repairs the damage that normally occurs in the hair during hair-coloring and bleaching. The colorpHlex swatch was likely completely lightened 10 to 20 minutes earlier than the Olaplex (depending on temperature), and the bleach should have been removed at that time. The key ingredient in colorpHlex is the ColorStrong ComplexTM, which is a naturally derived vegetable protein complex and does not interfere with the processing of the hair color or bleach.
Because colorpHlex does not interfere with the chemical processes of coloring or bleaching the hair, colorists are instructed to not increase the volume of their developer (H2O2) nor to increase the processing time. The colorist is also instructed to watch the color/bleach development just as they normally would. The result is great color and great hair in the normal amount of time.
Anyone interested in a real scientific test showing what colorpHlex is capable of doing should visit colorpHlex.com and go to the tab marked "The Technology" and click on the menu item "Anti-Breakage Report" (http://colorphlex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/15124-ColorpHlex-Anti-Breakage-Report1.pdf). This is a report on the scientific tests conducted by an independent research lab, that shows that hair bleached with colorpHlex was as strong or stronger than the same hair BEFORE it was bleached. We are not aware of any such study done by any other color strengthening additive in the world.
Speaking of the world, colorpHlex is manufactured in the USA and distributed world-wide. We have been available in the UK since April of this year.
As for colorpHlex being a "knock-off", clearly the chemistry is different as evidenced by the facts above. Olaplex deserves recognition for being a pioneer in this product category, but if colorpHlex was just a "copy cat", it would be used the same way (increasing the strength of the developer by 10 volume and adding 10 minutes to the processing time) and you would get the same results.
One final thing, colorpHlex does form a covalent (chemical) with the radical cysteic acid side chains that are produces in these oxidative services and are responsible for much of the damage that occurs during the coloring and lightening processes. These bonds can not be broken with simple shampooing and rinsing with water. colorpHlex also polymerizes in the hair to create additional strength and abrasion resistance while helping to maintain the natural moisture factor of the hair.
Best of success serving your salon clients with the best color strengthening additive on the market - colorpHlex.
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Hi Scott,
Welcome to Salon Geek.
I think the reason many Geeks are calling your product a 'knock-off' is probably because;
1. the name colorpHlex closely resembles Olaplex and,
2. it is being marketed as 'protecting and repairing' the damage that normally occurs during the colour and bleaching process, which is exactly how Olaplex is being marketed.
As hairdressing professionals, we understand that breaking the disulphides bonds and damage to the cuticle layer are the two areas that will lead to compromised hair. Damage may occur due to a number of factors inc. heat styling, UV Rays, adding too much protein, applying chemical processes (lightening, colouring, perming & straightening) and once compromised, there is little to be done to salvage the situation.
Also, I think it highly unlikely that during the tests that my fellow pro's are carrying out, anyone would increase the developer strength by 3% (10 vol) for ColorpHlex if the instructions do not require this. We are all careful to follow manufacturer's instructions where possible.
Unfortunately, I'm still unclear from your post, whether colorpHlex
a) repairs broken disulphides bonds or
b) replaces the missing cuticle scales or
c) both?
Personally, I for one would be grateful for a straightforward answer - Yes or No to each of the above.
Welcome to Salon Geek.
I think the reason many Geeks are calling your product a 'knock-off' is probably because;
1. the name colorpHlex closely resembles Olaplex and,
2. it is being marketed as 'protecting and repairing' the damage that normally occurs during the colour and bleaching process, which is exactly how Olaplex is being marketed.
As hairdressing professionals, we understand that breaking the disulphides bonds and damage to the cuticle layer are the two areas that will lead to compromised hair. Damage may occur due to a number of factors inc. heat styling, UV Rays, adding too much protein, applying chemical processes (lightening, colouring, perming & straightening) and once compromised, there is little to be done to salvage the situation.
Also, I think it highly unlikely that during the tests that my fellow pro's are carrying out, anyone would increase the developer strength by 3% (10 vol) for ColorpHlex if the instructions do not require this. We are all careful to follow manufacturer's instructions where possible.
Unfortunately, I'm still unclear from your post, whether colorpHlex
a) repairs broken disulphides bonds or
b) replaces the missing cuticle scales or
c) both?
Personally, I for one would be grateful for a straightforward answer - Yes or No to each of the above.
Sugarplumfaery
Well-Known Member
Me too
HappyStylist
New Member
Well, I've informed myself a little bit because you neglected my question (probably to make Olaplex look more unique, which I would probably also do if I were working for Olaplex).
A chemist explained to me N-acetyl cysteine is able to repair broken disulfide bonds via its thiol-group to make a new S-S bond. The carboxylic group helps to give hair strenght via hydrogen bonding interactions. I dont know if is right but it could explain the good results of Cureplex.
Anyhow, I am very happy about the results I get using Cureplex
jordanstylist
Well-Known Member
Well, I've informed myself a little bit because you neglected my question (probably to make Olaplex look more unique, which I would probably also do if I were working for Olaplex).
A chemist explained to me N-acetyl cysteine is able to repair broken disulfide bonds via its thiol-group to make a new S-S bond. The carboxylic group helps to give hair strenght via hydrogen bonding interactions. I dont know if is right but it could explain the good results of Cureplex.
Anyhow, I am very happy about the results I get using Cureplex
If the product was unique, there wouldn't be 5 different brands trying to incorporate this the exact same way as knockoffs. Eslabondexx, Magi:Bond, Niophlex, ProCortexx and Cureplex all sharing the same or nearly identical ingredient decks says something about the product. Also, there are 8 worldwide patents on Olaplex publishing shortly. These patents include cross linking single sulfur hydrogen bonds both ionically and covalently. We have researched this extensively. If it did connect broken disulfide bonds, that would be patent infringement which would be an entirely new issue for those companies. Sadly, as I stated above, it does not repair broken disulfide bonds in the hair. This is marketing and your chemist is incorrect. Ask that chemist about Dr. Craig Hawker and the Hawker Research Group. I doubt they would know more than someone who co-wrote click chemistry in 2011 that won the Nobel Peace Prize.
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jordanstylist
Well-Known Member
That test was conducted by an independent research lab that your company paid. Now a breakdown of Colorphlex by ingredient without fluff:
Water is used as the main solvent. PG Propyl Silanetriol is an artificially modifed amino acid from vegetables and a film forming compound meaning this coats the hair. Phenoxyethanol is a preservative. This product is made up of preservatives and silicone modifed vegetable proteins that are incapable of rebuilding bonds within the shaft of the hair.
Bumping the developer with Olaplex and lightener is necessary because it is an active chemistry working to cross link broken disulfide bonds during the process. As each disulfide bond is broken, Olaplex is working to find single sulfur hydrogen bonds to create new disulfide bonds. This is working to prevent the creation of SO3 or sulfate groups. These sulfate groups will then create cystic acid which will then eat the protein out of the hair. Olaplex is the only cross linking chemistry available that deals with broken disulfide bonds.
The video below is a great independent review done by a fellow hairstylist between Olaplex, Niophlex and Colorphlex.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tpxtqle9p8b7qjx/phlex.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tpxtqle9p8b7qjx/phlex.mp4?dl=0
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HappyStylist
New Member
Maybe you should read my post a little bit better, I wasn't implying Cureplex is unique. By the way, I notice your agressive attitude towards me and other forum members. Thanks for bashing my friend (chemist) by the way.
"Do you actually have any data to prove youre statements on the coarse of action of olaplex? Otherwise these are all lose words and thus marketing. Mentioning marketing, I'll bet this dr Hawker spend less than week total in this project but Olaplex is allowed to use his name in exchange of a bag of money.
To Dr. Eric Pressly: maybe he has to re-do his Chemistry bachelor. N-acetyl cysteine, like cysteine, definitely has a thiol-group, hope he can recognise one."
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It might help if you are more honest about who you are, where you are based and which company you represent!
jordanstylist
Well-Known Member
My mistake. He sent a correction immediately after
The thiol is free but it won’t react with the hair in the way you would want. Thioglycolic acid has a free thiol and an acid, does that repair bonds in hair?
http://patents.justia.com/inventor/craig-j-hawker Look at methods for fixing hair and skin.
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HappyStylist
New Member
"There are a lot of compounds that contain both thiol and carboxylic acid groups and they dont all react in the same way. Note the slight difference of the position of the thiol between cysteine and thioglycolic acid, gamma and beta position, respectively. In chemistry, this makes A LOT of difference.
Still, I havent seen evidence that prove olaplex binds to the hair you say it does. To quote Dr Hawker: "Do you have a NMR of that?"
"
Still, I havent seen evidence that prove olaplex binds to the hair you say it does. To quote Dr Hawker: "Do you have a NMR of that?"
"
Scott Breed
Active Member
AcidPerm,
I appreciate your remarks. Regarding your "knock-off" comments-
1. Our name is similar to Olaplex in that it ends with "lex". The reason that name was coined is because as any product company will do, we wanted the name to tell people as much as possible about the product. "color" lets people know that it is a product that is used with and should be associated with hair-coloring. "pHlex" represents two ideas. The "pH" refers to the importance of pH values in haircare and "pHlex" refers to the strength it imparts to the hair whether it is used in coloring, lightening, perming, relaxing or as a stand alone treatment.
2. Saying that we are a "knock off" because we are occupying the same market position as Olaplex is like saying Paul Mitchell or some other shampoo was a knock of Prell or Breck or castile soap because they came to market before Paul Mitchell, or every haircolor is a knock off of L'Oreal because they came to market later.
As for not using colopHlex according to directions, in every case I have seen the explanation specifically says that the same volume of developer and the same amount of time was use on each swatch.
Regarding your questions a, b, and c:
a) colorpHlex definitely bonds to the cysteic acid side chains plus ColorStrong Complex(TM), the key active ingredient in colorpHlex, also has the ability to polymerize which means that additional bonds are built in a recticular matrix inside the cortex adding even more strength. That is why in independent tests, hair bleached using the colorpHlex system was actually stronger than the hair was before it was bleached.
b) colorpHlex does not replace the cuticle, but the cuticle is also made of keratin and cysteic acid is produce in the cuticle just as it is produced in the cortex, therefore colorpHlex will bond to those side chains as well. Because of ColorStrong's ability to bond to the keratin molecule and crosslink, it can actually replace the intercellular cement that naturally occurs between cuticle layers, but is lost due to chemical or mechanical abuse.
c) both
Regarding Olaplex; As I stated earlier, Olaplex was as far as I know the pioneer in this category and it is a good product. I just want to point out that just because we occupy the same market position, it does not make us a "knock off". There are obvious differences.
I hope this explanation was helpful.
Scott
Scott Breed
Active Member
Jordan,
In response to your comments above, we did pay an internationally recognized company used by many beauty and textile companies to not just verify but to also establish the efficacy of the colorpHlex system. They have assured the colorpHlex company that they are prepared to defend their test results in court should anyone choose to challenge them. I am sure they are available to Olaplex and I would presume that Olaplex would have some positive results as well.
As for fluff regarding ingredients, I don't seem much room for fluff. Like Olaplex, colorpHlex Step 1 is a very simple formula. The active ingredient absolutely does bond to the cysteic acid radicals created on the keratin molecule by chemical damage whether it is created by oxidation or extreme pH. It also polymerizes creating additional bonds and, therefore, additional strength.
ColorStrong Complex is an engineered protein, silica compound hybrid and is artificially created. For any protein to have any efficacy in treating hair it must be artificially altered. Bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (the active ingredient in Olaplex) is certainly not a naturally occurring compound.
A technical correction to your statement about Olaplex rebuilding the disulfide bonds, the disulfide bond is represented as, K-S-S-K, where K represents keratin. According to the Olaplex literature, this bond is not rebuilt but an Olaplex bridge is formed. Which may happen, but it is hard to visualize how a bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate molecule will fit in the space where there was one sulfur atom of a cystine side chain linked to directly to another sulphur atom of a cystine side chain. The quantum mechanics doesn't seem to allow that.
The video found at the link that you provided is an excellent example of the amateurish, ill designed and poorly interpreted experiments that I referred to earlier. In these experiments (she actually did two (2)) the well meaning colorist used four (4) swatches. To one swatch she applied powdered bleach and 40 vol. developer; to the second swatch she applied powdered bleach, 40 vol. developer and colorpHlex; to the third swatch she applied powdered bleach, 40 vol. developer and Nioplex and to the fourth swatch she applied powdered bleach, 40 vol. developer and Olaplex.
I the first experiment she left the mixtures on for two (2) hours and in the second experiment she left the mixtures on for four (4) hours. Because colorpHlex does not slow down or interfere with the coloring and bleaching process (and many colorist feel that it can actually shorten the time) the colorpHlex swatch was probably completely lightened in 45 minutes. The additional hour and 15 minutes or 3 hours in 15 minutes was just not needed and only resulted in hydrolyzing the keratin. Some colorists may want their bleaches to take longer to give them extra processing time for some reason, but the extra time is not necessary for colorpHlex.
Scott
jordanstylist
Well-Known Member
Those lab tests do not reflect any independent tests done. When you pay, bias is already built in. As for bonds being rebuilt, this is just a choice of words. Yes, Olaplex creates both an ionic and covalent bridge between to single sulfur hydrogen bonds to form disulfide bonds. As there are many side by sides available, stylists will quickly pickup the difference.
As a company, we encourage side by side testing. The point of the side by side tests was to push things to the absolute limit. You can also check out the review from the American Board of Certified Haircolorists. These are real stylists doing side by side comparisons, not some lab. Olaplex did not create a product category. That would imply other products do the same thing which they do not.
In your marketing, it says Colorphlex is patented. Where's the patent? Number? Author?
http://myemail.constantcontact.com/OLAPLEX-Tested-Again.html?soid=1102356594365&aid=RGJVd8Idfn4
