From a base 5 to a 8-9 with Wella koleston perfect

[SophiaD]

She wants blonde hair (base 8-9, and I think warm to complement her undertones) starting from a natural base that goes from 5 to 6 in the ends, it is very healthy and long. She also coloured her hair a copper red months ago, but it is mostly completely faded and she does not want to do any bleach. I am in the process of getting rid of that reminiscent box dye. So of course I want to achieve a a high lift without bleach, preserving a warm blonde colour but without it looking brassy. And I have never done a 3-4 level high lift without using bleach, so I need... help.

My doubt is: If we want to go from a level 5 to a 8-9, do we use special blonde (12/...)+40 volume+mixton or can we use a level just koleston perfect 10/...+40 volume+mixton. The hair base color has already lot of warm pigments naturally (golden/yellowish mostly).
The formulas I was thinking were:
12/61+0/28+40V
or
10/16+0/28+40V
or
10/0+0/28+0/88+40V
I was also thinking 12/96+0/28+40volume?

Again, I am unsure if using koleston special blonde and then toning it to achieve the results she wants if needed, or using just some level 10 koleston perfect will do. Remember: warm, not brassy.
Thank you for any tips/help you can give me.

 

[ronray]

She wants blonde hair (base 8-9, and I think warm to complement her undertones) starting from a natural base that goes from 5 to 6 in the ends, it is very healthy and long. She also coloured her hair a copper red months ago, but it is mostly completely faded and she does not want to do any bleach. I am in the process of getting rid of that reminiscent box dye. So of course I want to achieve a a high lift without bleach, preserving a warm blonde colour but without it looking brassy. And I have never done a 3-4 level high lift without using bleach, so I need... help.

My doubt is: If we want to go from a level 5 to a 8-9, do we use special blonde (12/...)+40 volume+mixton or can we use a level just koleston perfect 10/...+40 volume+mixton. The hair base color has already lot of warm pigments naturally (golden/yellowish mostly).
The formulas I was thinking were:
12/61+0/28+40V
or
10/16+0/28+40V
or
10/0+0/28+0/88+40V
I was also thinking 12/96+0/28+40volume?

Again, I am unsure if using koleston special blonde and then toning it to achieve the results she wants if needed, or using just some level 10 koleston perfect will do. Remember: warm, not brassy.
Thank you for any tips/help you can give me.

If we're being realistic, with your starting level and previously coloured hair, lifting with tint is not going to be your best option. Highlift tint will give you 5 levels of lift at most if you're lucky, but highlift won't lift artificial colour the same way it does virgin hair. 10/0 will lift through colour with 12% but the amount of lift you will be able to achieve will be unpredictable. You would have to do several processes with tint to lift the hair anywhere near enough to achieve what she wants which will actually cause more damage than using a low developer with a good quality bleach and then just toning afterwards to balance.
You also have to think about the sensitivity of the scalp if you're doing multiple processes. My advice would be to do some strand tests. Compare your results and discuss with your client your chosen method and why that's the better method at that moment in time. I don't let my clients tell me how I'm going to achieve the colour they want. If they knew how to do it they wouldn't be paying us to provide the professional service.

 

[SophiaD]

If we're being realistic, with your starting level and previously coloured hair, lifting with tint is not going to be your best option. Highlift tint will give you 5 levels of lift at most if you're lucky, but highlift won't lift artificial colour the same way it does virgin hair. 10/0 will lift through colour with 12% but the amount of lift you will be able to achieve will be unpredictable. You would have to do several processes with tint to lift the hair anywhere near enough to achieve what she wants which will actually cause more damage than using a low developer with a good quality bleach and then just toning afterwards to balance.
You also have to think about the sensitivity of the scalp if you're doing multiple processes. My advice would be to do some strand tests. Compare your results and discuss with your client your chosen method and why that's the better method at that moment in time. I don't let my clients tell me how I'm going to achieve the colour they want. If they knew how to do it they wouldn't be paying us to provide the professional service.

Thanks for the fast reply!
She don t want to do bleach because she has allergic reaction to it. Her wedding is in 5 months and she just wants to get rid of the red and lighten her hair a 8-9 (but she understands it is difficult and she is ok with a lesser high-lift). She has been using clarifying shampoo, and it actually seem to have worked on her a lot, but it won't do her anything anymore. So I will test a color removal (no bleach) and see if her skull responds well to it, but I wanted to have something in mind because I was unsure to do it without bleach.

 

[ronray]

Thanks for the fast reply!
She don t want to do bleach because she has allergic reaction to it. Her wedding is in 5 months and she just wants to get rid of the red and lighten her hair a 8-9 (but she understands it is difficult and she is ok with a lesser high-lift). She has been using clarifying shampoo, and it actually seem to have worked on her a lot, but it won't do her anything anymore. So I will test a color removal (no bleach) and see if her skull responds well to it, but I wanted to have something in mind because I was unsure to do it without bleach.

From my experience I would start with 10/0 + 12% on the ends. Where the band of colour is and anything that is 1/2 inch away from the scalp. Let that process for 40 mins. Rinse and then I'd re apply to the mid lengths and ends and then up to the roots. Leave for 40 mins. This is probably the most even lift you will get. Highlift will be unpredictable and generally seem to be warmer.
Then I'd probably pretone the hair to even out any banding or lighter areas. And then chose your final colour probably with colour touch as it gives a nicer coverage after lightening and more shine.

 

[vividamnesia]

The only "hi-lift" I have ever used that had the best results is Farouks "CHI Infra" hi lift. This product will actually lift out old color! Yes it is the only 1 that can do this....it is used with 30/40vol, cap & lock heat 15-20 minus + 5 min cool down....this would be great for the first time application then if she is within every 2months or so root retouch...you can use it or possibly a regular color in la.8-9 with 30-40vol. It's my go to for a service like this which boarders on the corrective side.