Grey coverage, help!

[Bella Amici]

I had been using Affinage on my client for years. I was using a level 7. She started noticing it was covering/lasting as well as it usually did. So I started mixing a 6 and a 7. That worked for awhile and then the sAme thing started happening. So I switched to Redkin Cover fusion using a level 6 and a 7. It worked great. But then all of a sudden the last 3 appointments I have had with her it wasn't covering. Each appointment I had to color her twice!! And each time I had been using 6 with just a little 7. This past appointment I tried Baco and it was worse. I really don't know what to do because she does not want to go any darker and at this point I don't even know if going darker will help. Any suggestions please!! Also, she had already gone through menopause and is not on any medications.

 

[AcidPerm]

Is the problem just trying to cover grey?
If so, what percentage of grey?
Is the grey coverage translucent looking or not being coloured at all?
Are you talking about root retouches or are you reapplying the colour all over each time?
Have you tried pre-softening with 6% peroxide and drying it in?

We don't have the client sat in front of us or any pictures so I'm trying to understand exactly what the problem is.

 

[Bella Amici]

Is the problem just trying to cover grey?
If so, what percentage of grey?
Is the grey coverage translucent looking or not being coloured at all?
Are you talking about root retouches or are you reapplying the colour all over each time?
Have you tried pre-softening with 6% peroxide and drying it in?

We don't have the client sat in front of us or any pictures so I'm trying to understand exactly what the problem is.

Sorry! Yes grey coverage. About 90%. She has become more grey since I started doing her hair. We are only doing retouches. It is translucent looking. Like a hot root. With the redkin cover fushion she would have a hot root but then after a week it would be even lighter. I have not tried pre softening the root. Someone just told me about that so I was going to maybe try that. I'm just wondering if I should still use the redkin cover fashion after pre softening it or another line?

Thank you so much!

 

[AcidPerm]

Sorry, I'm not a redken user, so I can't comment on the correct formula.

If it's proving tricky to cover, I use colour formulated specifically for resistant grey hair. These usually come with a built in double base which has a higher percentage of ammonia to help open the cuticle layer.

Have you got access to a Redken colour manual? What do they advise?

If you try pre-softening, wash it first to remove any product build up and then rough dry. Apply neat 6% developer to just the stubborn grey hair and then dry it in again. Apply your colour mix, almost scrubbing it in and develop as usual. Be very generous with your colour application as it needs to be heavily saturated to ensure even coverage.

Also, just a general observation. I think that you're better off going slightly lighter rather than darker when colouring grey as this blends better and looks more natural.

 

[Michaela Bachiu]

I use Redken, and if you're using cover fusion then you're already using a double pigmented color(6NN) (what AcidPerm said they use), so that and 20 vol (6%) should cover, but if that's what you're already using, then have you tried using a 9%? Some of our clients with really resistant grey or white hair we have had to bump up the developer or extend processing time to 45 minutes instead of the usual 30

 

[sarah divey]

I use Affinage, if you go back to that instead of Redken at any point I can advise you what Affinage recommend doing for resistant greys. Do a 1:1 ratio of tint to developer instead of the normal 1:1.5, all .01 in their range are designed to cover greys so try using 7.01. Apply liberally to dampened roots and leave on for 55 minutes or 25/30 minutes with heat. I also had trouble with resistant greys so I sought advice from them directly. The other good advice is what is mentioned above, presoftening. Let us know how you get on.

 

[sarah divey]

Oh and Affinage never recommend anything other than 3% to cover grey/white hair.