Hair contouring

[adamlea87]

Thought I'd post a simple guide to the hair contouring trend that I think we will be hearing much more of very soon. Just as stylists will work with shape to balance the face shape, contouring takes the next step with colour placement.

The principles are simply shadowing areas of the face with darker tones to compress and lighter tones to create width and draw attention to areas of the shape. The idea is aimed more towards freehand work, and as a colourist I find it helps me with making balayage more bespoke and flattering towards the individual client.

Here is a guide from L'Oreal: http://lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/products/haircolour/index-haircolour/hair-contouring/

The guide focuses on using subtle colours in the same tonal family for a natural look, but you can use cooler and warmer tones against each other for the same effect. To take it a step further you can look at how to balance colours together: http://www.worqx.com/color/color_proportion.htm always taking skin tone into consideration, but if the placement & balance is right I think cool toned clients can wear some warmth in their hair and visa versa.

Hope this is helpful to someone

 

[Pancakes]

I don't want to sound absolutely rude, and I love learning new things but I don't believe in face contouring via hair color placements. The last two look okay to me as a pattern for placing highs and low in general but the first one just looks dated to me. There was this trend a few years ago just like peekaboo streaks which reminds of that.
I just can't really see how a haircolour can give you a better face profile. Furthermore I also don't believe in cool color skin tones/warm types having to wear a certain selection of tones. E.g. overly yellowy blondes neither look good on anyone or greenish Browns!?
A haircolour has to be balanced in itself and has to meet the client's wishes. I don't see the science made of it.

 

[adamlea87]

No worries discussion is always good!
In terms of beauty I don't believe in hard rules, after all, who is to say what looks good or is beautiful?

But I personally believe that many clients want to feel like they look good, and that our eyes are drawn towards lightness in terms of the overall colour. I think that this can be taken as an overall guide rather than an exact science.

As for cool and warm skin tones, again I agree it is definatly not an exact science, and some peoples "suit" clashing colours. However I personally believe the right tone can make the difference between someone looking tired/ill to well/healthy.

I think if someone is wearing a good tone for their skin, then they look well, if it's a bad tone then you notice their haircolour more.

 

[Pancakes]

You are right with some colors it can wash out someone's appearance but if someone really wants to be a certain shade with makeup you can work out so that looks great again. It definitely depends on how much time and effort someone wants to put into their look. Gwen Stefani e.g. is not really someone who has the right color scheme for blonde hair. But made up she has her signature look and looks fantastic and young.
I feel that bronde haircolour would work for anyone. A slightly warm base 7 with a few face framing level 9 beige highlights? Beyonce, JLo, Kim k, Gisele... you name them.

 

[adamlea87]

You are right with some colors it can wash out someone's appearance but if someone really wants to be a certain shade with makeup you can work out so that looks great again. It definitely depends on how much time and effort someone wants to put into their look. Gwen Stefani e.g. is not really someone who has the right color scheme for blonde hair. But made up she has her signature look and looks fantastic and young.
I feel that bronde haircolour would work for anyone. A slightly warm base 7 with a few face framing level 9 beige highlights? Beyonce, JLo, Kim k, Gisele... you name them.

I would agree, and I think when looking at skin tone if someone usually tans or wears certain make up you would have to consider that.

I think bronde can look okay for many people, because it softens all the colouring between the eyes/skin/hair. As people age they often want less contrast in their coloring because it is softer. But I feel like some contrast is good to make people more lively.. sometimes I feel they can look a bit bland if it is all to blended..

Just my thoughts though... enjoying the discussion

 

[AcidPerm]

Interesting concept and I do think that warm and cool colours matter when worn next to the skin, especially as you start to age. (Thinking older women with box dyed black hair.)

Some people can wear both but most suit predominantly either warm or cool tones. Anything warm on me looks completely wrong but my sister looks great with cool colours but can wear some warm tones that I simply can't.

The illustrations posted are with long hair. I think it wouldn't work in the same way with short hair though as the proportions wouldn't be quite right.

 

[chris_causey]

Here is another variation. I think it's a great idea, and it gets us thinking about how colour can interact with face shape as well as the cut. It's more easily applied to lob length and longer.
As for the warm and cool, I think that when a person doesn't wear makeup the rule is more important because you are seeing someone's true colourings. But makeup gives everyone a slightly warmer feel so cool skin tones that have makeup on can get away with adding warmth. I don't wear makeup (well a bit of tinted moisturiser every so often) and I'm cool toned so any warmth makes me look a bit sickly [emoji40]

 

[Grace_Hair]

It pees me off that L'Oreal have made up face shapes?! Why?!

I was always taught you have oval, long, round, heart and square.

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

Tori, I am not sure I know what you mean. I remember learning those face shapes.

 

[Grace_Hair]

We never got taught anything about a diamond, rectangular or oblong face shape and no one else I've spoken to was taught these either?

I also got taught that an oblong and rectangle are the same?!