How to remove vivid colors?

[EmilieMorv]

Hi lovely geeks, I have a client with this semi permanent hair color, I think she mentioned it was Directions from La Riche - but my question here is how on Earth do I remove that color(without frying her hair) and anybody who have experience with removal of Directionst?
I thought about a mild bleach using foils or bleach bath since it's only semi-permanent, but I haven't worked this kind of color removal before!

I appreciate all ideas!

xx

 

[AcidPerm]

No, DO NOT use bleach!
No matter how tempted you are to try a mild solution as it will probably stain the cuticle layer and you'd end up having to cut it out.

There are some direct dye colour removers available (Malibu DDL) or you can try the crushed Vitamin C tablet trick. Use high strength vitamin c and add it to shampoo, lather and leave to process before rinsing out.

Before you start, double check if she's already tried DIY bleaching, because it probably won't budge at all no matter what you try and you might get blamed for the poor condition of her hair.

Edited: Forgot to add...a permanent clear plus 6% usually works well.

 

[EmilieMorv]

No, DO NOT use bleach!
No matter how tempted you are to try a mild solution as it will probably stain the cuticle layer and you'd end up having to cut it out.

There are some direct dye colour removers available (Malibu DDL) or you can try the crushed Vitamin C tablet trick. Use high strength vitamin c and add it to shampoo, lather and leave to process before rinsing out.

Before you start, double check if she's already tried DIY bleaching, because it probably won't budge at all no matter what you try and you might get blamed for the poor condition of her hair.

Edited: Forgot to add...a permanent clear plus 6% usually works well.

I know she hasn't tried to remove it herself! I live in Denmark and I can't find the Malibu DDL one, but I know there is the drugstore one called 'Color B4' - would that work? It's not a bleach, and I've tried it myself to remove build-up some years ago..

I've heard about the C-vitamin trick, never knew it would actually work! Should it be the chewing kind or the ones you swallow whole?

A permanent clear with 20 volume? What exactly will that do?

 

[AcidPerm]

ColourB4 is a colour reducer so only works on oxidative dyes. Direct dyes are a different animal altogether.

Clear plus 6% opens the cuticle layer and the clear colour molecules effectively pushes out the direct dye molecules.

Vitamin C is ascorbic acid so preferably use the powder (which you can usually buy from Pharmacies but I don't know about Denmark) or a high strength tablet. I assume the chewable type is mixed with sweeteners (?).

 

[EmilieMorv]

Ah, that makes sense! Thank you!

I found some C-vitamin too, not the chewable ones!

Thank you for your help!!

 

[AcidPerm]

Don't forget to take some before and after pics. Lots of hairdressers aren't familiar with removing the vivid colour direct dyes so if it goes well, you might find a new niche market available to you.

 

[EmilieMorv]

Don't forget to take some before and after pics. Lots of hairdressers aren't familiar with removing the vivid colour direct dyes so if it goes well, you might find a new niche market available to you.

Yea, I remember I've seen a hairdresser bleach the c*** out of one of his friends hair to remove a pink color, but it makes sense with removing it with ascorbic acid or a clear, since it only stains.. And her hair will definitely be more manageable!
So thank you so much again - always good to be educated further!!

What clear would you recommend?
I've worked with L'óreal Majirel for a while to try something different, but I find that Wella is more 'predictable'

 

[Reidebot]

I can never find clears. They're always sold out.

 

[lilyanna]

I have seen the clear method work wonderfully but not in all cases, I use PM shines activator with clear. Pravana recommends using bleach with their zero lift developer. I am conflicted when it comes to color remover as it's usually meant for a permanent color that oxidizes and the Vivids are a semi perm. I've also seen people remove these colors with bleach and water! But I've tried it before on a manikin and it did nothing. I'm interested in the Vitamin C thing though! Is there a link to a good how to?

 

[Stylists911]

If you can get your hands on the new Joico Color Remover for direct dyes it works great on all direct dyes no matter what company.