KP overview

[Lukas K]

I'm always looking to branch out and try new products to expand my horizons. I've already tried the search function and haven't been able to find exactly what I'm looking for.

I'm particularly interested in trying out more of the Koleston line by Wella. I've been hearing a lot of great things about the color, and it's mentioned on here quite a bit.

I've had a look at the Koleston PDF file and have been browsing through it. What I'm mostly unsure of is how the bases and doubles bases work.

This part seems a little unique to Wella, as I've never seen so many variations of base neutral tones. I.e what is the difference between 7/, 7/0, 77/0, and 7/00??

I have also noticed tones that are obviously double pigment, or have a major and secondary tone, but with 2 numbers before the dash? I.e 77/43. I'm figuring this is a premixed tone that is meant for gray coverage + fashion tone?


Hope I am making sense. I Would love some guidance with these aspects of the line! I'm looking forward to using this line more, and I understand everything else, but I want to make sure I got this part right before I get started cause I didn't find much info on the PDF!

Thank you

 

[Lauren121]

Have you looked at the wella thread on here? http://www.salongeek.com/threads/wella-thread.285086/

It's a good read I learnt a lot!

 

[Lukas K]

Thank you
I haven't gotten through all the 14 pages yet, working on it though!
I do understand the way the line works generally, and how the tones are arranged on the number system and such.
What I'm having trouble with, is all the variations of a neutral tone for example.
I noticed that there's like 4 variations of a neutral level 7. For example I saw a 7/, 7/0, 77/0, and 7/00.
I'm not quite used to this, cause all the color lines I have worked with before, either have just a 7.0 or 7.00 for double pigment/resistant hair

 

[Lauren121]

Thank you
I haven't gotten through all the 14 pages yet, working on it though!
I do understand the way the line works generally, and how the tones are arranged on the number system and such.
What I'm having trouble with, is all the variations of a neutral tone for example.
I noticed that there's like 4 variations of a neutral level 7. For example I saw a 7/, 7/0, 77/0, and 7/00.
I'm not quite used to this, cause all the color lines I have worked with before, either have just a 7.0 or 7.00 for double pigment/resistant hair

Cassies the wells expert but I've not seen her on here for a while let me familiarise myself and I will try and help you!

 

[Lauren121]

Right so the 7/ line is only in illumina (I think) they are cooler colours, permanent but it's quiet sheer looking my go to range for toning.

77/0 these can't be mixed with anything other than double bases and special mix so you couldn't mix 77/0 with say a 7/3 you would have to use special mix as it dilutes the double base. These are for resistant hair.

The 7/00 can be mixed with the other shades. These are double naturals so warmer than the 7/0 but not as warm as a /3 line.

And then obviously the 7/0 is just a natural hope this helps a little?

 

[Grace_Hair]

@cassies97 is on her holibobs. But I'm sure she can help when she's back.

 

[byKaty]

Right so the 7/ line is only in illumina (I think) they are cooler colours, permanent but it's quiet sheer looking my go to range for toning.

77/0 these can't be mixed with anything other than double bases and special mix so you couldn't mix 77/0 with say a 7/3 you would have to use special mix as it dilutes the double base. These are for resistant hair.

The 7/00 can be mixed with the other shades. These are double naturals so warmer than the 7/0 but not as warm as a /3 line.

And then obviously the 7/0 is just a natural hope this helps a little?

To add I think that the 6/00 7/00 and 8/00 can be mixed with fashions shades for covering grey that isn't resistant, I've done it and better results than just using the natural base mixed in. Cassie is the guru on wella lol so she will tell you better.

 

[Lukas K]

Thanks so much for your help guys! Really appreciate it

I'm going to give it a try with my mums regrowth..

She is 75% gray, resistant and NL 7.

She likes a brown based copper, and I usually use 3/4 7.00 + 1/4 7.77 with 20 vol in Igora.

What's my best option for converting her to KP?

77/0 + 0/43 or ..
7/00 + 77/43 ??

It seems as the 77/0 has the best coverage but she wants a fashion tone also..

KP seems a lot more of a warmer color line no? Even looking at the shade chart and comparing to Igora..

Input would be appreciated!

 

[byKaty]

If she is truly resistant then 77/0 with 0/43. You will know if she isn't resistant as it will look inky/dark once done. And if I remember right the 0/43 is different to the others in that you need to use double the amount. But not 100% on that.
If any other geeks can clarify though please do!!
I actually found igora warmer but that's just me lol.

 

[Lukas K]

If she is truly resistant then 77/0 with 0/43. You will know if she isn't resistant as it will look inky/dark once done. And if I remember right the 0/43 is different to the others in that you need to use double the amount. But not 100% on that.
If any other geeks can clarify though please do!!
I actually found igora warmer but that's just me lol.

She's not crazy coarse or anything, but I definitely need to use 3/4 of 7.00 with her current root formula, otherwise her root looks a little translucent and glowy. She's a little old school and prefers that perfect opaque looking coverage. Haha.

Should I maybe do half 77/0 and half 0/43 with 20v?

I can't find a lot of specific information on any of the KP pdf charts, even on the mixing reccomendations chart. It just tells you how much neutral to put in according to gray percentage. But they're like 3/4 neutral series.
It doesn't break down the differences or anything.

Worst comes to worse I can always tone it, I suppose.

I'm not 100% sure cause I've only used CT to tone, but just looking at the shade charts of Igora and KP.. and comparing similar shades, it just seems to me, that Igora is darker and more of a "muted" looking color line.
I know you can't go by shade charts fully, but they're a good indicator of what the pure pigment looks like

 

[Lauren121]

Page 8 of the wells thread cassie has uploaded the colour charts it's got the back page on with the mixing ratios of the special mix! It does say something about 0/43 being used on its own is a 1:2 is that what you meant @byKaty ?

 

[byKaty]

Page 8 of the wells thread cassie has uploaded the colour charts it's got the back page on with the mixing ratios of the special mix! It does say something about 0/43 being used on its own is a 1:2 is that what you meant @byKaty ?

Aye that could be it!

 

[jamiereid92]

I feel like wella could do with some cooler tones, especially in colour touch.

I wanna see smokey charcoals and deep ashes.

Only thing I don't like about wella x

 

[Lukas K]

It says to use 4cm at a level 7, in seeing the color chart, and knowing my mums tendency to go glowy/translucent I'll do the 77/0+0/43. Going to the wholesaler right now thx for your help guys!