Long graduation help

[charleneweeooo]

...long graduation?
I never had to do it whilst doing my level 2 (got very crap in house training) and no tutor/assessor/trainer has ever mentioned it to me until my level 3 tutor mentioned it last week. I understand what graduation is and I'm completely confident at cutting short grad. Is it basically graduation in long hair, as in long layers? Am i being stupid? 😩

 

[cassies97]

A long graduation is any haircut below shoulder length with layers. A short graduation is any layered haircut above shoulder length.

 

[charleneweeooo]

Well that's simple enough lol thanks

 

[AcidPerm]

Graduation is elevating hair to 45 degrees or less. Layers is an elevation of 90 degrees or more and lines are when you cut without elevation.

 

[cassies97]

Well that's simple enough lol thanks

Sometimes we stress out and think things are much more complicated than they are!

 

[AcidPerm]

A long graduation is any haircut below shoulder length with layers. A short graduation is any layered haircut above shoulder length.

Sorry Cams, but that's not technically accurate as layers and graduation are two different things.

 

[daydreams01]

The main difference between the two is long layers = inner length is shorter than the outside length usually the top middle section is cut to desired length using a 90degree angle and then achieve long graduation by using an angle between 130-180 degrees to over direct the rest of the hair so it blends with the top section and retain length and weight around the perimeter

a short graduation = where the inner layers are longer than the outside length and a 45 degree angle is used to blend the longer length into the perimeter

 

[charleneweeooo]

Sometimes we stress out and think things are much more complicated than they are!

It's my biggest problem 😩

 

[charleneweeooo]

Thanks everyone

 

[cassies97]

Sorry Cams, but that's not technically accurate as layers and graduation are two different things.

Thats just the way i know city and guilds do it😣

 

[Dondon90]

Graduation is a built up distribution of weight. 90 degrees will add more movement through the top area whilst retaining fullness through the perimeter. It's generally the most common angle used for elevation

 

[charleneweeooo]

I'm still a little confused here 😩. I completely understand the angles to be used and i completely understand what graduation is... But I just feel there's something I'm not getting. I know i don't have someone as an example but when would yous guys use long grad opposed to long layers? Does anyone have a decent picture of a long grad they've done? If I see the end result Im pretty sure ill understand it better 😟 I'm such a pain!!

 

[charleneweeooo]

I've just read through this thread again and realise that photo is showing you to overdirect at 45 degree but someone a few posts down said 130 degree 😩😩 I'm.getting far too confused

 

[jamiereid92]

Whenever a heart "long graduation" it makes me think of shaping around the face x

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[surf girl]

Here's a long grad
To do this ladies hair I bring all the hair up to the top of the head and hold it in the air (straight up) and cut accross the top, if I want it longer at the sides I'll tilt my hands so my wrist is up and my fingers are down towards the head (extra graduation) the bottom hair dosent even get cut most of the time as it falls out when I hold the hair up high coz it's not long enough to reach, I then go round and do a perimeter and shape around the face

Long layers are when the hair gets held at different angles a long grad textbook style is done as above

 

[charleneweeooo]

Ahh thankyou so much. Yeah my tutor mentioned tilting up slightly opposed to cutting straight across. I take it this is so the end result is just more softer and blended than a usual long layers cut?

 

[jamiereid92]

Here's a long grad View attachment 82669
To do this ladies hair I bring all the hair up to the top of the head and hold it in the air (straight up) and cut accross the top, if I want it longer at the sides I'll tilt my hands so my wrist is up and my fingers are down towards the head (extra graduation) the bottom hair dosent even get cut most of the time as it falls out when I hold the hair up high coz it's not long enough to reach, I then go round and do a perimeter and shape around the face

Long layers are when the hair gets held at different angles a long grad textbook style is done as above

I would pull the hair forward, take diagonal sections from the parting to the ear, then pull straight out in front of the client, and cut in a diagonal line at 90°s to the angle of your section. If you look at this from a side angle you will see a right angled triangle... Well missing the bottom bit at Sanrizz it's called the long triangle. Does all your shaping of round the face, and layering for you x

Sent from my HTC One using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[charleneweeooo]

I would pull the hair forward, take diagonal sections from the parting to the ear, then pull straight out in front of the client, and cut in a diagonal line at 90°s to the angle of your section. If you look at this from a side angle you will see a right angled triangle... Well missing the bottom bit at Sanrizz it's called the long triangle. Does all your shaping of round the face, and layering for you x

Sent from my HTC One using SalonGeek mobile app

See this just sounds like a totally different cut to me!!!!! Forever a junior 😂 xx

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[cassies97]

I'm still a little confused here 😩. I completely understand the angles to be used and i completely understand what graduation is... But I just feel there's something I'm not getting. I know i don't have someone as an example but when would yous guys use long grad opposed to long layers? Does anyone have a decent picture of a long grad they've done? If I see the end result Im pretty sure ill understand it better 😟 I'm such a pain!!

Is your college city and guilds?

 

[surf girl]

Ahh thankyou so much. Yeah my tutor mentioned tilting up slightly opposed to cutting straight across. I take it this is so the end result is just more softer and blended than a usual long layers cut?

It leaves extra length at the sides, one thing when cutting this kind of style tho, don't take the perimeter into the layers, leave them out and join in at the end otherwise you could end up with a gap on the perimeter as obviously the head shape isn't the same all over if you've ever seen a client with a strange bit missing in the area around the shoulders (you will at some point in your carrear) that's why lol