Need help-confused about correction

[Luluthegirl]

Hi there,
I am apprentice, soon to be colorist, hopefully...

Recently, i am working at a hair salon, colorist assistant, on monday he assigned to me a customer with a lots of problem in her hair. This is would be test for me, like a exam, he wants to see my solution for this hair, so please help me, this hair is little bit complicated for me.

Customer's natural hair level is 5, natural medium brown, but she has %65 gray hair. She had 6.0 base hair color, but i noticed that top part of hair looks like 7.0 and bottom parts, ends looks like darker than the top. Anyway so she had also highlights. Her hair looks like natural light brown with orangy-golden shade and white hairs look like did not absorb the color well.

And she wants 7 level natural beige blonde or light beige brown color without a reddish tones. So i cannot use ash tones, because her highlights are level 8.
I dont know how beige tones would look like on highlights, pinkish ?
We use igora royal, im thinking to use igora royal absolute since she is over 40 and frizzy, grey hair.
But all absolute series has golden and red tones in it.
Maybe i should just go naturals like igora royal 8.0 + %9 30 vlm ?
Im so confused ?
Any suggestion, advise ?
Ill be appreciated.

 

[ColourGirly]

Hi!

So she wants to be a level 7 all over?

With no highlights? Is that right?

 

[Luluthegirl]

Hi!

So she wants to be a level 7 all over?

With no highlights? Is that right?

Hi thank you for reply !

Yes, she is ok if her highlights will cover with color, and yes she wants all over 7 with full coverage of gray hair and no red tones. She says she wants dark beige blonde but i do not know how to make it and how it would be good on her hair.

 

[ColourGirly]

Ok so your salon owner is testing you as this sounds more like a colour correction?

So from the above I got
Natural hair colour- 5
%of white- 65%
Existing colour - mid band 7 ends 6 and highlights 8
Target- a beige level 7.

So what are your thoughts so far of what you should put on?

 

[Luluthegirl]

Ok so your salon owner is testing you as this sounds more like a colour correction?

So from the above I got
Natural hair colour- 5
%of white- 65%
Existing colour - mid band 7 ends 6 and highlights 8
Target- a beige level 7.

So what are your thoughts so far of what you should put on?

Yes, it is a color correction, right the owner testing me, actually my diagnose and solution that he is testing.

So, well, I am thinking since she has resistant gray hair and frizzy, thick hair structure, I am planing to go with igora royal absolute ( sounds more safe to me) 7.50 medium gold natural ooor medium golden blonde beige 7.4 i would go with that i am thinking although it will be golden tones on her hair. But without a red tones i am thinking her highlights would go gray or greenish. So i have to use natural tones. But i dont know about beige tone, i dont know it wont work on highlights

 

[ColourGirly]

Ok, so a couple of issues here.

How are you going to solve the problem of her ends being a level darker?

Looking at the absolute assortment, yes you are right the are designed for coarse hair but all the tones on a level 7 are warm, to me beige is a coolish golden colour, has she picked out a specific shade?

Also you need to think about lifting two levels, that will expose warmth so adding a warm shade could end up warmer then she wants.

 

[Luluthegirl]

Ok, so a couple of issues here.

How are you going to solve the problem of her ends being a level darker?

Looking at the absolute assortment, yes you are right the are designed for coarse hair but all the tones on a level 7 are warm, to me beige is a coolish golden colour, has she picked out a specific shade?

Also you need to think about lifting two levels, that will expose warmth so adding a warm shade could end up warmer then she wants.

Oh, She will get a hair cut, so this would be solve the problem a bit but not completely, but i warned her about that. Otherwise, i would go with a color that she has darker shade 6.

She wants 7 medium beige blonde, or light brown with a little golden in it. She actually wants cool blonde 7 level but i told her because of her highlights i cannot use ash color, it has to be gold tone and also ash tones lmake her look older, i think, that was my teacher says all the time at school.

So, she also definitely wants her white hair covered well, maybe i should go 7.50
Is it look too goldish ? Or maybe i do not mix color but maybe 7.50 and 7.0 ?

Im lost again , maybe i should just go 7.0 neutral with %6 20 volume ?

 

[jessicalewis]

I can't give much advise on this as I'm not very confident in colouring myself as recently qualified but try not to stress too much, I know it's easier said then done but everyone's been through this when learning, and stressin out makes it all 10x worse. Is it possible to do a test cutting? And don't be afraid to ask for a second opinion, when you go through the consultation if your still unsure then ask a colleague for a second opinion, I'm sure they won't mind and explain to your boss you wasn't 100%confident about your colour choice and just wanted to check with a second opinion, rather than go straight into the colour and it not being right. Hope it all goes okay xx

 

[Nearlyme]

You need to break it down.
Nat base 5
Grey 65%
Ends level?
Highlights level?
Ends tone
Highlights tone
Desired finish nat 7.

I know what I would do but it defeats the object of your boss testing you if I tell you. But look at it it segments.
What do you need to do to the roots to make them a flat 7?
What do you need to do to the ends to make them a flat 7?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[ColourGirly]

She wants 7 medium beige blonde, or light brown with a little golden in it. She actually wants cool blonde 7 level but i told her because of her highlights i cannot use ash color, it has to be gold tone and also ash tones lmake her look older, i think, that was my teacher says all the time at school.

Right, calm down, you've given 3 options here. You need to pick a target colour.

7 medium beige blonde
Light golden brown
Cool level 7?????

I'm going to be blunt, I don't think asking here is going to help, you need a second opinion and someone to show you how to do this in salon. Don't try to get the answer here so your boss thinks you can do it, admit your not confident in this one and you need help. You will learn from it and there will always be a next time you can impress him x

 

[faerififi]

Firstly the client doesnt know what she wants. You need to really have an in depth talk with her with pictures and visual references to go by, this will help you a lot. Secondly, i thought beige was made of mostly warm tones? This is again where a consultation and pictures will help match her idea of beige to your idea. Also, I dont know if you have colour removers available at your salon, but i think using one would benefit you greatly in giving you an even base to work on and getting rid of the dark tones at the ends of the hair.

 

[Luluthegirl]

You need to break it down.
Nat base 5
Grey 65%
Ends level?
Highlights level?
Ends tone
Highlights tone
Desired finish nat 7.

I know what I would do but it defeats the object of your boss testing you if I tell you. But look at it it segments.
What do you need to do to the roots to make them a flat 7?

Thank you all for encouraging me here, and you are right I must calm down first.

NOW, Yesterday, I had a little time with the client, she had a hair cut, and she got rid off the all dark tones in the end of her hair, this was a relief for me.
so, she showed me a picture, and Itwas 7 level, natural beige blonde.Her highlight level is 8 natural, it has golden shades under the sun.
I will represent my 2 option to my boss,
First,
I decided to go with 7-00 and 7-4 1:1 and 6 %20 volume.
why 7:00 because she has resistant white hair.
why 7:4 to add some beige tone
Risks: both has golden tones in it, it may result with intense goldish look, I may add 0-33 to eliminate reds but I dont know

I gave up from igora absolutes because it has very intense reddish tones, and also it doesn't allow me to mix with other color, I am feeling if I mix other shades with absolute it may go messy.

Second is,
7:00 and 7:1 with 20 vlm so this way I may eliminate red tones, but I am sure still she will have golden shades under the sun. but she is ok with a very little golden shade.

So, these two option I will say tomorrow. Lets see [/B]

 

[ColourGirly]

Ok so this makes more sense.

But originally you said base 5 but she in fact an 8?

When darkening you have no issues of releasing warm tones as you are not lightening.

Also you keep saying red tones- red is found in natural hair below a 5 which isn't represented here. Do you just mean warm underlying tones?

If she is a base 8 I would agree with option 1. If she was a base 5 I would have suggested 2.

 

[Luluthegirl]

Ok so this makes more sense.

But originally you said base 5 but she in fact an 8?

When darkening you have no issues of releasing warm tones as you are not lightening.

Also you keep saying red tones- red is found in natural hair below a 5 which isn't represented here. Do you just mean warm underlying tones?

If she is a base 8 I would agree with option 1. If she was a base 5 I would have suggested 2.

Oh, I meant that her virgin hair color is 5, I just wanted to add it as a extra info, i dont know, my teacher would always wanted me check the real hair color of the client. maybe in this case it was not necessary because her hair has colored and now her hair level is kind of between 6-7 and there is 8 level highlights on it.

Yes, I meant warm underlying tones. Sorry

 

[ColourGirly]

So she has no natural hair colour what so ever? It's all coloured with no regrowth?

 

[Luluthegirl]

So she has no natural hair colour what so ever? It's all coloured with no regrowth?

No, her hair is color treated hair, its not virgin. So her color treated hair level is 6 to 7 level between, she said she dyed her hair 6.0 claroil.

She has regrowth half inches.

 

[ColourGirly]

Two options - remove some of the ends so your end result is an even 7, the I would go for formula 2 on the regrowth and asses the ends for a colour.

Or go for a 6 level all the way through.

If you put a level 7 on the regrowth, especially a warm one, you will get root glow.

As you've said she has a level 6/7 on the ends. Either lift it or match it.

 

[Luluthegirl]

So she has no natural hair colour what so ever? It's all coloured with no regrowth?

Hi, I am back, sorry I could not reply yesterday and finally today I had a testing and I passed it !!

As you know,i was working on a client who has 6-7 level color treated hair, plus damaged, frizzy and coarse, plus %65 white hair, anddd plus 8 level highlights.
This client first wanted to full and evenly coverage her white hair, and she wanted to get rid of her golden-orangy underline tone, and more full of color ( her her was look like did not absorbed the color from her previous coloring ), shortly she asked me to medium beige blonde, with cool underline tones.

And I used my second option, and thank you for all you advice and encouragin,
I mixed igora royal 7-0 and 7-1 with %6 volume igora royal oil developer, honestly I used little bit more 7-0 and a very little bit more like 0.1 oz developer, and I used 2 tubes, evenshe had a short hair but because her hair very porous-just in case.
Anddd Result is AMAZING !
It turned out literally medium beige bloned with coolish undertones !
and its very very shiny and look very natural look like her original hair color.