Neutralising level 5/6 orange hair (with pictures)

missy_94

New Member
#1
Hi

I have a client who is level 3 (dark brown) and had box dyed with a dark red box dye. She wants to be darkest ash blonde level 6/7. Over time I have managed to take out red with effasor and bleach. She is now an orangy level 6 colour all over. I am planning to use colour touch or illumina with /8 or /89 but struggling to pick with one I should go with. I also have access to rush, metrix and guy tang range. Here is a picture of her current hair:



and she wishes to be this colour (or a shade lighter) with almost a green tone to it (with NO orange whatsoever):




her hair is in good condition but I dont want to bleach it to get orange out, I think it can be fixed but unsure with which toner.

she also wishes to have ombre with level 9 which I did a swatch for, on her hair with bleach and an 8/89 colour touch and it came out exactly how she wants the ends.

Can anyone advice what i should use on the whole head to tone before doing ombre?

thank you.
 

missy_94

New Member
#2
I know there are so many people with tons more knowledge than me, can somebody help me please, I will ask my tutor again but dont wana seem clueless :( x
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#3
Hi

I have a client who is level 3 (dark brown) and had box dyed with a dark red box dye. She wants to be darkest ash blonde level 6/7. Over time I have managed to take out red with effasor and bleach. She is now an orangy level 6 colour all over. I am planning to use colour touch or illumina with /8 or /89 but struggling to pick with one I should go with. I also have access to rush, metrix and guy tang range. Here is a picture of her current hair:



and she wishes to be this colour (or a shade lighter) with almost a green tone to it (with NO orange whatsoever):




her hair is in good condition but I dont want to bleach it to get orange out, I think it can be fixed but unsure with which toner.

she also wishes to have ombre with level 9 which I did a swatch for, on her hair with bleach and an 8/89 colour touch and it came out exactly how she wants the ends.

Can anyone advice what i should use on the whole head to tone before doing ombre?

thank you.
If she wants to be a 6 then all well and good as you can use illumina 6/19 +7/81, but if she wants to be a 7 which I'd say the picture is, you still need to lighten the hair atleast another shade or two, after the hair has already been coloured I find it very hard to get colour to lift the hair, I think you'll be disappointed. Hope this helps
 

missy_94

New Member
#4
If she wants to be a 6 then all well and good as you can use illumina 6/19 +7/81, but if she wants to be a 7 which I'd say the picture is, you still need to lighten the hair atleast another shade or two, after the hair has already been coloured I find it very hard to get colour to lift the hair, I think you'll be disappointed. Hope this helps
Thank you so much for your advice its helped a lot :)

what do you reckon I use to lighten as I would have to bleach the ends/mids (with the back comb method) for the lighter shade so double bleach would damage a lot? Or would you reckon I lighten with bleach and tone to a level 7 in one visit and then do the ombre in the next visit?

Also if she does want lightening with bleach what shades do you reckon I should use on level 7/8 bleached hair to get to the desired colour above.. I was thinking koleston 7/1 with one fourth of 0/22 to kill all the brasiness?
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#5
Thank you so much for your advice its helped a lot :)

what do you reckon I use to lighten as I would have to bleach the ends/mids (with the back comb method) for the lighter shade so double bleach would damage a lot? Or would you reckon I lighten with bleach and tone to a level 7 in one visit and then do the ombre in the next visit?

Also if she does want lightening with bleach what shades do you reckon I should use on level 7/8 bleached hair to get to the desired colour above.. I was thinking koleston 7/1 with one fourth of 0/22 to kill all the brasiness?
Do you use olaplex?, If so, use olaplex in every step and you can achieve it all in one appointment, if not, I'd aim for a perfect base colour first then do to u lighter pieces on the next appointment, I would cleanse the hair 1 part bleach and 4 parts pastel, shampoo + condition, dry it off make sure it's light enough, then id do a full colour of illumina 7/81+8/96 pastel but make sure your base an 8
I wouldn't use kp 7/1 and 0/22 as you'd risk a khaki result
 

missy_94

New Member
#6
Do you use olaplex?, If so, use olaplex in every step and you can achieve it all in one appointment, if not, I'd aim for a perfect base colour first then do to u lighter pieces on the next appointment, I would cleanse the hair 1 part bleach and 4 parts pastel, shampoo + condition, dry it off make sure it's light enough, then id do a full colour of illumina 7/81+8/96 pastel but make sure your base an 8
I wouldn't use kp 7/1 and 0/22 as you'd risk a khaki result
hi again

I saw the client ealier today, she decided to go ombre with her level 6 orangy red hair. As she said she thinks it would look good and because she did not want me to double bleach. So I bleach the ends and mids with 30 vol and it lifted to a nice level nice which I then toned with 8/81. She seemed happy with the ends but wants me to neutralise the top. I have no clue as to how to go about it now? Thinking about following your advice to do it with 6/19 and 7/81. but quite worried about the mid lengths as they have blonde and ginger together.

Here's her current hair, I dont have access to olaplax atm so having to avoid too much bleaching. Thank you so much for helping out x
 

Attachments

ronray

Well-Known Member
#7
hi again

I saw the client ealier today, she decided to go ombre with her level 6 orangy red hair. As she said she thinks it would look good and because she did not want me to double bleach. So I bleach the ends and mids with 30 vol and it lifted to a nice level nice which I then toned with 8/81. She seemed happy with the ends but wants me to neutralise the top. I have no clue as to how to go about it now? Thinking about following your advice to do it with 6/19 and 7/81. but quite worried about the mid lengths as they have blonde and ginger together.

Here's her current hair, I dont have access to olaplax atm so having to avoid too much bleaching. Thank you so much for helping out x
Yes you could either go with 6/19+7/81 or maybe try 7/89 +8/96 but not sure if that would Neutralise it completely, might still give you a slight warm hint to it but would be much more natural looking. You can always blend it down to the blonde, do it section by section, and blend down past the blonde on some sections, and then on other sections only take it down to where the blonde starts, that will create a really nice blend, to avoid banding I'd take your sections fairly small and take them on a diagonal, hope this helps
 

AshLovesTanning

Hair And Tanning
#8
Hi

I have a client who is level 3 (dark brown) and had box dyed with a dark red box dye. She wants to be darkest ash blonde level 6/7. Over time I have managed to take out red with effasor and bleach. She is now an orangy level 6 colour all over. I am planning to use colour touch or illumina with /8 or /89 but struggling to pick with one I should go with. I also have access to rush, metrix and guy tang range. Here is a picture of her current hair:
and she wishes to be this colour (or a shade lighter) with almost a green tone to it (with NO orange whatsoever):

her hair is in good condition but I dont want to bleach it to get orange out, I think it can be fixed but unsure with which toner.

she also wishes to have ombre with level 9 which I did a swatch for, on her hair with bleach and an 8/89 colour touch and it came out exactly how she wants the ends.

Can anyone advice what i should use on the whole head to tone before doing ombre?

thank you.
hi there,

Box dye is hard to remove and Red hair dye is even harder it just goes pink!
The only way to get rid of orange is to neutralise with blue going darker. Or completely bleach it out. Not toner will neutralise orange hair.
Somethings are just not able to be achieved.
It could take a year or two to achieve.
Best thing to do is tell her to let it grow out so you don't have to damage her hair.
 

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
#9
Somethings are just not able to be achieved.
It could take a year or two to achieve.
Best thing to do is tell her to let it grow out so you don't have to damage her hair.
I'm sorry, but I have to strongly disagree with your post. I can only assume that you haven't done any colour correction training as it really shouldn't be difficult to achieve the client's objectives if you use the correct products such as a colour reducer followed by bleach, to lift it to the level required before toning.
 

Bella93xox

Active Member
#10
I would tone the top section using 6/16 and 7/81 with pastel, just don't overlap the blonde and I agree with taking diagonal sections. Personally I'd find it easier to do it on damp hair, or to help blend use olaplex number 2 on the blonde x
 

AshLovesTanning

Hair And Tanning
#11
I'm sorry, but I have to strongly disagree with your post. I can only assume that you haven't done any colour correction training as it really shouldn't be difficult to achieve the client's objectives if you use the correct products such as a colour reducer followed by bleach, to lift it to the level required before toning.
How could I be qualified and not have done colour correction?
She said she didn't want to damage the hair and no toner will neutralize Orange hair toner will neutralize brassy hair being yellow Orange. All Orange should be removed in the bleaching process.
What did u not agree with?
 

AshLovesTanning

Hair And Tanning
#12
If she wants to be a 6 then all well and good as you can use illumina 6/19 +7/81, but if she wants to be a 7 which I'd say the picture is, you still need to lighten the hair atleast another shade or two, after the hair has already been coloured I find it very hard to get colour to lift the hair, I think you'll be disappointed. Hope this helps
Thats what I was trying to say unfortunately some results can leave the client and us disappointed.
 

AshLovesTanning

Hair And Tanning
#13
I'm sorry, but I have to strongly disagree with your post. I can only assume that you haven't done any colour correction training as it really shouldn't be difficult to achieve the client's objectives if you use the correct products such as a colour reducer followed by bleach, to lift it to the level required before toning.
what did i say you disagree with?
 

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
#14
This...

Somethings are just not able to be achieved.
It could take a year or two to achieve.
Best thing to do is tell her to let it grow out so you don't have to damage her hair.
Would you really tell a client that to remove box dye and go a few levels lighter will take a year or two to achieve? If so, you'll probably lose them as clients.

Using a colour reducer such as Affinage Eraser will remove the artificial colour and not cause any damage at all. If you've never used a colour reducer before, have a look into them. They're not bleach based like Efassor and they can be very effective if you use them correctly.
 

missy_94

New Member
#15
Yes you could either go with 6/19+7/81 or maybe try 7/89 +8/96 but not sure if that would Neutralise it completely, might still give you a slight warm hint to it but would be much more natural looking. You can always blend it down to the blonde, do it section by section, and blend down past the blonde on some sections, and then on other sections only take it down to where the blonde starts, that will create a really nice blend, to avoid banding I'd take your sections fairly small and take them on a diagonal, hope this helps
Thank you so much help is a really appreciated. I explained to the client today everything as I didnt want her disappointed with the result (warm tones in the hair at the end). So, she wants me to bleach the top and get it to an even level 7 dark ash blonde all over somewhere like the picture below (she showed me a different picture but it was more or less like this):

I dont have access to olaplex. However her hair lifted to a level 8 blonde (with some brassiness) first time at the bottom so I am hoping the top would be the same as I had previously used same colour removers on both parts.

So, now the colour she wants to use I am thinking about using a 7/1 but worried wether that would take the brasiness out? the client is adamant she does not want any orange/gold/red in her hair. What would you recomend?
 

Attachments

missy_94

New Member
#16
hi there,

Box dye is hard to remove and Red hair dye is even harder it just goes pink!
The only way to get rid of orange is to neutralise with blue going darker. Or completely bleach it out. Not toner will neutralise orange hair.
Somethings are just not able to be achieved.
It could take a year or two to achieve.
Best thing to do is tell her to let it grow out so you don't have to damage her hair.
Thank you for your reply. My client's hair at the top has never been bleached and is healthy but she wanted to avoid bleaching it if possible. She is hating her hair and desperate to get it more ashy neutral I dont think I have the heart to tell her outright I cant help her.

When I bleached the bottom of her hair it did pretty well and minimal damage occurred.

Thank you for your time
 

missy_94

New Member
#17
I would tone the top section using 6/16 and 7/81 with pastel, just don't overlap the blonde and I agree with taking diagonal sections. Personally I'd find it easier to do it on damp hair, or to help blend use olaplex number 2 on the blonde x
I dont have access to olaplex but will aim to avoid the mid sections to avoid overlaping. But am worried if my 7/1 would achieve the full ashy dark blonde. x
 

missy_94

New Member
#18
This...



Would you really tell a client that to remove box dye and go a few levels lighter will take a year or two to achieve? If so, you'll probably lose them as clients.

Using a colour reducer such as Affinage Eraser will remove the artificial colour and not cause any damage at all. If you've never used a colour reducer before, have a look into them. They're not bleach based like Efassor and they can be very effective if you use them correctly.
I have used effasor primarily on her hair to prior to the initial colour above and it didnt seem to do much damage at all. x
 

missy_94

New Member
#19
I have used effasor primarily on her hair to prior to the initial colour above and it didnt seem to do much damage at all. x
Thank you so much help is a really appreciated. I explained to the client today everything as I didnt want her disappointed with the result (warm tones in the hair at the end). So, she wants me to bleach the top and get it to an even level 7 dark ash blonde all over somewhere like the picture below (she showed me a different picture but it was more or less like this):

I dont have access to olaplex. However her hair lifted to a level 8 blonde (with some brassiness) first time at the bottom so I am hoping the top would be the same as I had previously used same colour removers on both parts.

So, now the colour she wants to use I am thinking about using a 7/1 but worried wether that would take the brasiness out? the client is adamant she does not want any orange/gold/red in her hair. What would you recomend?
or 7/81 by illumina x
 

AshLovesTanning

Hair And Tanning
#20
Thats what I was trying to explain in my post where I said:

hi there,
Box dye is hard to remove and Red hair dye is even harder it just goes pink!
The only way to get rid of orange is to neutralise with blue going darker. Or completely bleach it out. Not toner will neutralise orange hair.
Somethings are just not able to be achieved.
It could take a year or two to achieve.
Best thing to do is tell her to let it grow out so you don't have to damage her hair.


Sometimes you just have to explain to clients that what they would like cannot be achieved right now. I have a Master's Degree In Colour and specialize in Colour
I think Haircutz just misunderstood me completely. Sorry about that.
My hair colour is 4.20 which is violet brown in L'Oreal and I would have to let it grow out 2 inches from my scalp before even thinking about using bleaching methods because my hair will just go pinky orange and it won't lift any more than that. So you could do a strand test and show her the results then have a chat with her about it.
 
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