Pre-pigmentation query

[Cramquila]

Hey there,
So I was a hairdresser for many years but have not been for the last 13 years. I very rarely did pre-pig work on clients so I want to ask a few questions about this as I will be coloring my girlfriends hair. Currently it is a straw like bleached out mess that her mother has been doing (read over processing with bleach and 9% developer).

A couple of points:
- Natural hair color is about 6 or 7 (It's hard to tell as her roots are so short).
- Currently it's about 12 level or just below platinum blonde (with a few small patches of missed darker hair from previous colors).
- Aiming for a red to orange close to the natural level.

I got chatting with the woman in the store where I bought the color and we decided on ColourTouch 8/43. On washed then well towel dried hair, pure ColorTouch 8/43 on hair then (wide tooth) combed through and then adding developer (1.9%) over the color to activate it.

I want to ask what is the normal time after applying pre-pig (CT 8/43) that I should apply developer? Or can I add it straight away?

 

[AcidPerm]

If it’s seriously damaged, you might be better off using a direct dye semi rather than an oxidising colour.

 

[ronray]

Hey there,
So I was a hairdresser for many years but have not been for the last 13 years. I very rarely did pre-pig work on clients so I want to ask a few questions about this as I will be coloring my girlfriends hair. Currently it is a straw like bleached out mess that her mother has been doing (read over processing with bleach and 9% developer).

A couple of points:
- Natural hair color is about 6 or 7 (It's hard to tell as her roots are so short).
- Currently it's about 12 level or just below platinum blonde (with a few small patches of missed darker hair from previous colors).
- Aiming for a red to orange close to the natural level.

I got chatting with the woman in the store where I bought the color and we decided on ColourTouch 8/43. On washed then well towel dried hair, pure ColorTouch 8/43 on hair then (wide tooth) combed through and then adding developer (1.9%) over the color to activate it.

I want to ask what is the normal time after applying pre-pig (CT 8/43) that I should apply developer? Or can I add it straight away?

Usually you mix it then apply, I've enever known it to be applied separately? I would normally pre pig with perfecton /43 then apply the colour touch 8/43 + 1.9%

 

[cassies97]

Usually you mix it then apply, I've enever known it to be applied separately? I would normally pre pig with perfecton /43 then apply the colour touch 8/43 + 1.9%

I agree thats very strange and probably unreliable and inconsistent way to do it. You'll get a much better result with perfecton and it'll help to even out the porosity slightly and avoid fading.

 

[Cramquila]

Hey guys thanks for the replies!

To be honest that was my first idea of how to color bleached out hair down to a lower level but I was easily convinced in the store as I have not worked as a hairdresser for a long time. I do know that there are many new ways of doing things I used to do in salon back when I was working in one.

However, I do recall a few fellow hairdressers using this technique but never fully had the time to learn more about it. I will go with what I know and has been corroborated here by two of you! Just one question about the /43 pre-pig are you applying that with developer and do you rinse it out before applying the demi? I get that this may sound a bit clueless but it has been such a long time and I did not do many of these in my later years as a hairdresser as I ended up in a salon working mostly on middle aged mommys who all wanted blond highlights....day in, day out...

 

[cassies97]

Hey guys thanks for the replies!

To be honest that was my first idea of how to color bleached out hair down to a lower level but I was easily convinced in the store as I have not worked as a hairdresser for a long time. I do know that there are many new ways of doing things I used to do in salon back when I was working in one.

However, I do recall a few fellow hairdressers using this technique but never fully had the time to learn more about it. I will go with what I know and has been corroborated here by two of you! Just one question about the /43 pre-pig are you applying that with developer and do you rinse it out before applying the demi? I get that this may sound a bit clueless but it has been such a long time and I did not do many of these in my later years as a hairdresser as I ended up in a salon working mostly on middle aged mommys who all wanted blond highlights....day in, day out...

Perfecton is a temporary so its mixed with water and applied at the backwash on shampooed hair, no rinsing, just dry it in then apply your final formula. The MFI should give perfecton to water ratios, I can't remember them off the top of my head but you can't go wrong with a perfecton really especially if you're putting copper over it anyway. Good luck!

 

[ronray]

Perfecton is a temporary so its mixed with water and applied at the backwash on shampooed hair, no rinsing, just dry it in then apply your final formula. The MFI should give perfecton to water ratios, I can't remember them off the top of my head but you can't go wrong with a perfecton really especially if you're putting copper over it anyway. Good luck!

5-20mls of perfecton in 100-240 mls of water I believe!

 

[Cramquila]

Hey there and thanks again for the replies!

I didn't see your replies until after coloring her hair but I went with my gut and actually did just as cassies97 suggested. My ratios were nothing like ronray suggested, I used a whole tube of 0/43 on shampooed and well towel dried hair with a little water added to the color as it was way too thick to use without it. Her hair drank in all of the product and I was left with maybe 1/16 of the tube in the bowl.

The end result is gorgeous!

I can now see that her roots are easily a 6 and so for the next time I will probably take it down a level to 7/43 (or the closet equivalent).

Once again, thank you both for your help!

 

[ronray]

Hey there and thanks again for the replies!

I didn't see your replies until after coloring her hair but I went with my gut and actually did just as cassies97 suggested. My ratios were nothing like ronray suggested, I used a whole tube of 0/43 on shampooed and well towel dried hair with a little water added to the color as it was way too thick to use without it. Her hair drank in all of the product and I was left with maybe 1/16 of the tube in the bowl.

The end result is gorgeous!

I can now see that her roots are easily a 6 and so for the next time I will probably take it down a level to 7/43 (or the closet equivalent).

Once again, thank you both for your help!

From what I understand, your ratios were nothing like I suggested because you didn't use perfecton like I suggested. Perfecton is a 250ml bottle of pigmented liquid. Not a tube of anything with a thick consistency. But however I'm glad you were happy with your end result

 

[Cramquila]

Oh I think you miss read my reply 'My ratios were nothing like ronray suggested'. Please don't take that the wrong way, all is good and I still am very thankful for your help! I have never even heard of 'Perfection' this may be a product that is new in the last 12 years? I do recall using pure reflect tones to do similar work in the past so that is what I understood from the advice that both you and cassie97 gave me. This forum is great I wish I had utilized something like this when I was still working as a stylist, this must be great for discussing technical oddities that sometimes happen in the salon.

 

[ronray]

Oh I think you miss read my reply 'My ratios were nothing like ronray suggested'. Please don't take that the wrong way, all is good and I still am very thankful for your help! I have never even heard of 'Perfection' this may be a product that is new in the last 12 years? I do recall using pure reflect tones to do similar work in the past so that is what I understood from the advice that both you and cassie97 gave me. This forum is great I wish I had utilized something like this when I was still working as a stylist, this must be great for discussing technical oddities that sometimes happen in the salon.

This site is very good for supporting eachother and sharing ideas. I'm not sure how I stumbled across it, but I check it daily lol

 

[cassies97]

I'm glad it turned out well. But yes it sounds like you used special mix rather than perfecton, for future reference this is what perfecton looks like...

 

[Cramquila]

Thanks I'll check it out next time or even if this color falls out too quickly.