Resistant white hair

[lilly]

i have a client with the most resistant white hair I’ve known !! Almost 100%,

I was using 4/75 + 1/2 4 it covered to her satisfaction but wasn’t to mine and the roots always faded.

Today I removed colour to a warm 6 and was advised to use 30g 66/0 plus 1g 0/45 and 2g 0/45, to try and get a 6/75 it came out like a 6 and was very flat at the fringe, her hair is past her shoulders so the back was lovely because it was warm from the colour removal showed through BUT even with the correct carefully measured colours and really packing the colour on it STILL didn’t cover the roots well enough.

I did think that next time I’d do roots , develop, rinse then colour touch all verbtoots and ends but really want a quicker way of doing it without 2 steps ??

 

[jamiereid92]

Have you tried colour touch plus? It sounds crazy but sometimes it covers more than koleston x

 

[Siansy]

This is I have found works very well for resistant grey/white hair.
To tint firstly with the intense bas shades of the brand you use. In the brand NXT I use its the /00 shades and the other brand Wella the 55/0 for example.
This i do where the resistant areas are. On a couple of clients just a T-section. Give that a good 15/20 minutes to develop.
Then add your mix over the top and throughout the rest of the hair starting your developmemt time from then.
If looking for a vibrant shade then m8x the shade lighter for the intense.
If still resistant then pre paint the areas with peroxide ( I find 20vol ok) dry off before the tint goes on. Helps to soften the cuticle x

 

[lilly]

Another question ! I use colour touch fro mid lengths and ends.....I develop roots, shampoo then apply ct mid lengths and ends. Hoe would it work if I had kp on the roots and applied ct ml and ends ? What happens if there is a product overlap during processing ?

 

[jamiereid92]

Another question ! I use colour touch fro mid lengths and ends.....I develop roots, shampoo then apply ct mid lengths and ends. Hoe would it work if I had kp on the roots and applied ct ml and ends ? What happens if there is a product overlap during processing ?

This won't be an issue, I always do it this way

 

[Mirandaelizabeth]

i have a client with the most resistant white hair I’ve known !! Almost 100%,

I was using 4/75 + 1/2 4 it covered to her satisfaction but wasn’t to mine and the roots always faded.

Today I removed colour to a warm 6 and was advised to use 30g 66/0 plus 1g 0/45 and 2g 0/45, to try and get a 6/75 it came out like a 6 and was very flat at the fringe, her hair is past her shoulders so the back was lovely because it was warm from the colour removal showed through BUT even with the correct carefully measured colours and really packing the colour on it STILL didn’t cover the roots well enough.

I did think that next time I’d do roots , develop, rinse then colour touch all verbtoots and ends but really want a quicker way of doing it without 2 steps ??

What about filling your clients hair first with pure pigment so the color has something to hold on to. Also make sure there is enough warmth in the color, also if the roots fade fast you could try doing the roots a shade darker than the ends.

 

[Eloise86]

You could pre soften with peroxide, or I use Schwarzkopf that has a absolutes range specifically designed for resistant hair, it’s usually used with 30 vol but on 90% to 100% white it recommends using 20vol xx

 

[GeeLow]

Pre colour the roots, just mix whatever you’re gonna use with hot water, and then apply the colour with the oxydant over the top.

 

[lilly]

Pre colour the roots, just mix whatever you’re gonna use with hot water, and then apply the colour with the oxydant over the top.

I’ve never heard of doing colour this way, do you dry the colour and hot water on the hair first before applying the mixed tint ?

 

[AcidPerm]

You can pre-soften by applying a thin layer of tint onto dry hair without adding water or developer to it. It’s the ammonia in the tint that opens up the cuticle. You then apply your normal tint mix (inc. developer) on top.

 

[adamlea87]

I agree with @AcidPerm take a little pure tint diluted with a few mls of water to apply a micro thin film to the hair to swell the hair before tinting resistant areas.

However I would personally try to save time and use an opaque/coverage line like majirel cool cover.

 

[lilly]

I think I might give majirel a go, it’s years since I used it, what is the cool cover range ? X

 

[adamlea87]

Cool cover is super pigmented and cool for clients that want full coverage and hate brassyness. If your mixing for white hair you have to add half base, but the base colours are very cool toned on their own if you want to use them out the tube x

 

[piersstanaway]

You can pre-soften by applying a thin layer of tint onto dry hair without adding water or developer to it. It’s the ammonia in the tint that opens up the cuticle. You then apply your normal tint mix (inc. developer) on top.

This is your best bet!

 

[lilly]

Sounds like a good line but this client likes some warmth

 

[Eloise86]

Sounds like a good line but this client likes some warmth

Try the Schwarzkopf absolutes they are warm or cool x

 

[EssexFreelance]

I’ve never had to pre soften anything- peroxide is acidic and closes the cuticle, it’s an outdated technique which is still taught in NVQ although I would think there isn’t a single manufacturer that recommendeds doing so.

Guides to white coverage

Makes sure the hair is clean- use pre shampoo to open the cuticle if needed
Mix accurately
Use the right developer
Apply plenty of product if your using less than 40/60ml then it’s probably not enough
Once you apply reapply again
Develop maximum development
Asses the ends - darker ends will make roots look lighter- don’t comb colour through everytime or use a lighter shade or add clear to the mid lengths and end formula
Use 44/0 and mixtone for coarse resistant wirey hair

 

[lilly]

I’ve never had to pre soften anything- peroxide is acidic and closes the cuticle, it’s an outdated technique which is still taught in NVQ although I would think there isn’t a single manufacturer that recommendeds doing so.

Guides to white coverage

Makes sure the hair is clean- use pre shampoo to open the cuticle if needed
Mix accurately
Use the right developer
Apply plenty of product if your using less than 40/60ml then it’s probably not enough
Once you apply reapply again
Develop maximum development
Asses the ends - darker ends will make roots look lighter- don’t comb colour through everytime or use a lighter shade or add clear to the mid lengths and end formula
Use 44/0 and mixtone for coarse resistant wirey hair

Thanks for your reply. I’ve followed all kp guidelines but unfortunately the colour still isn’t covering, I’m probably going to try majieal now.