Taking a platinum blonde down to medium blonde: should I tint back or just tone?

[ClaireKitty]

Hey guys! Fairly new stylist here, I've lurked for a while and decided to make an account to get some help with a client I'm not sure about. She's a natural level 7 and has been bleach and toning her own roots up to a 10 for a few years. She uses Color Charm, it's an ashy almost white platinum. She wants a correction down to more of a medium, natural looking blonde - but of course she doesn't want it too gold or red. These are the pictures she linked me to:
http://cdn.sheknows.com/articles/2012/06/adele-pregnant-1.jpg
http://indilens.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/WEK_ScarlettJohansson_0404.jpg

What I can't decide on is if I need to tint back and tone on top of it or just tone the hair as is, since it's only a change of a few levels. I'm using Wella. My instinct is just to tone but I'm worried that she's going to pull ashy really quickly because the hair is so porous already. Here's my plan right now: Blondor w/6% on regrowth, 8/38 w/pastel on the roots, then lots of diagonal slicing with 8/38 and 9/7 for dimension. Any thoughts?

 

[kaye74]

Hi,
It depends which one you decide to go with.
For Adeles hair:
I would go in with a level 7 as your client is very light, if you mix light with the level you are requiring then obviously it's going to turn out lighter.
I would use lightener with 6 developer in foils, don't do too many as Adeles colour doesn't have that much.
I would be more inclined to use 7/73 with added mix tone of 0/33 as the undertone of 7 is orange and you need to replace the Orange.
If you go in with 8/38 it will Be too light, I use this as a toner over prelightened and it's not as dark as Adeles ;-)
I would then tone with 9/7 and pastel as the lights on her colour are quite biscuity/light caramel. Xx hth

 

[ColourBoy]

Pre pig then tint! Especially as it's all over and more then two shades darker

 

[cassies97]

Agree with Tom. I'd do a few foils with highlift on the level 7 root, and conditioner on the ends, pre pig with perfecton /43 + /3 to make /34, then I'd use ct, not koleston, you get much more shine. 8/71 w/ 7/73. Then rinse it all off and tone your highlights with a 9/36 maybe.

 

[cassies97]

Forgot to add, use koleston or illumina on the root.

 

[tsparker78]

Agree with Tom. I'd do a few foils with highlift on the level 7 root, and conditioner on the ends, pre pig with perfecton /43 + /3 to make /34, then I'd use ct, not koleston, you get much more shine. 8/71 w/ 7/73. Then rinse it all off and tone your highlights with a 9/36 maybe.

And that's how to do it right!

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[cassies97]

And that's how to do it right!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using SalonGeek mobile app

Thanks that's just how I'd do it! Obviously other ways to do it

 

[tsparker78]

Your welcome. My post wasn't meant to be controversial. Yes, you could mix the prepig into the color touch. That's obviously an option, but using koleston to darken bleached hair, not really the best route.

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[cassies97]

Your welcome. My post wasn't meant to be controversial. Yes, you could mix the prepig into the color touch. That's obviously an option, but using koleston to darken bleached hair, not really the best route.

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I just didn't wanna sound big headed! It's just unnecessary damage really

 

[tsparker78]

I just didn't wanna sound big headed! It's just unnecessary damage really

Yes! Exactly. Compromised hair won't hold color, or be true to tone.

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[ClaireKitty]

Thanks guys! Sounds like I was on the wrong track, I was worried about going too dark. I can handle taking blonde to a brunette but platinum to darker blonde was freaking me out. Blondes scare me! This has helped a ton.

 

[cassies97]

Thanks guys! Sounds like I was on the wrong track, I was worried about going too dark. I can handle taking blonde to a brunette but platinum to darker blonde was freaking me out. Blondes scare me! This has helped a ton.

If they scare you then do as many of them as you can!

 

[vividamnesia]

I would use a 50/50 9N+9G mix for pre bleached @ 10vol + same tone mixture @ 20vol for re-growth in same foil. The Gold lv.9 will be enough pigment replacement for whats missing & the N has the balanced R,B,Y for a proper lv9. This for the lightest color.

Do a lv 7N+7G for a lo-lite & depth & balancing out her natural. Every 3-4 foils:lv9 foils. I like doing from right below the occipital bone, in a triangle sectioning downwards,in the back, solid lv.7 mixture for awesome depth & mimicing how a natural color would be if she hung out in the sun for a while lifting the top,finer hair to a lv.9 slightly warm fading to her naturallv7 in the back.

The lv.7 will be about a lv8 when it fades in about a month on the lightened hair. This will leave you a good canvas for her next booking weather she wants darker or back to lighter easily for you.